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Ordering stroker stuff...

AndyS

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Shrewsbury, MA
Snapped the rearmost exhaust manifold stud off while installing my new Borla today, so that's the last straw. The motor's got 140K on it, and has several annoying oil leaks on it, so I'm gonna yank the motor and build a stroker. As tempting as it is to build the cheap stroker (4.0 pistons and 258 rods), I'd really prefer to use the 4.0 rods and aftermarket pistons to keep compression and quench under control, as this is my daily driver, and I have to pass tough emissions tests ('94 HO/AW4) here in Mass.

Accurate Power seems to be everyone's choice for stroker stuff, but 600 bucks for pistons still seems like a lot to me. Are there any other suppliers that are less expensive? Also, I'm trying to keep the list of items I'm replacing to a minimum for money reasons; does anyone see an issue with continuing to use the OEM cam/lifters? Do the 4.0 cams wear well? Any items that I *MUST* replace, other than normal stuff like bearings, etc.? (and don't just say "for xxx money, you ought to go ahead and do "this".....nickle and dime stuff adds up!)

I plan on having the block tanked, bored and honed, new freeze plugs and cam bearings. Other than that (unless there is something blatant), no other block work. Gonna have the rods cleaned and checked. The head will just be refreshed (seals and valves lapped).

Late 258 cranks (six counterweight with serpentine belt snout) are scarce around here at boneyards, so unless anyone here has one for short money, I'm probably going to go to Auto Zone, pay the core charge and get one of their reman crank kits from them.

Any other suggestions? Thanks!

Andy
 
Idon't kow of any cheaper places for the pistons but accurate is by far the best place i've seen. If you can swing it I'd get a cam you will like the improve ment I used the clifford cam in a 4.0 i built and it made a big diffrence.
 
I'd love to get a cam to compliment the increased displacement, but aside from the additional cost of the cam and new lifters, plus possibly new valvesprings, pushrods, etc. (depending on profile), I also have the problem of passing emissions. Here in Mass., we use a chassis dyno-type of setup to test emissions so that not only is an idle sample taken, but also accelleration, 30mph or so steady speed, and decelleration.

Does anyone make higher ratio rocker arms for the 4.0? That might be an easy way to get a little more lift without really increasing the duration much, which is usually what affects emissions the most...
 
i believe stock rockers are 1.6 ratio...and wouldnt that be enough for a medium size stroker build up ? or are u just looking for a higher ratio rocker to skip out of buying a high performance cam ??? dont cheat yourself out ...
and if u go the route of useing a replacement aftermarket cam , keep in mind that u might have to shim the rocker arm bride to compensate for the increase in lift so the preload on the lifters is not excessive or just purchase shorter push rods. your best first step is to find out the specs u want for the stroke such as HP, compression ratio, quelch height, and if u want to run regular gas. and then after u figured out that find what performance cam is best suited for your build...

if u are going around a 9.5:1 compression ratio and and dont mind the chance of having to use premium gas to avoid what i think is refered to as "pinging" , u should use these cams :

Crane #753905 204/216 degree cam
CompCams #68-231-4 206/214 degree cam

if u plan on building a low compression ratio stroker in the range of about like 8.8:1, and the use of 87 octane , u would benefit from a shorter duration cam like these :

Crane #750501 192/204 degree cam
CompCams #68-115-4 192/200 degree cam

i hope this kinda helped u and might solve some of your questions.
 
esl_cherokee said:
this is the kit I was planning on buying what does everyone think of this one?

http://www.speedomotive.com/jeep_4.htm

While this isn't rocket science, there are a couple of things that raise concerns about this site and place.

First off, he doesn't know how to spell header even though he claims to be a "hedder dealer".

Secondly, the 911 he has for sale is a complete hack job.

Third, his BBB rating is a CC, meaning that they've had to get involved in some of his complaints (9) in order to get resolution. While he eventually resolved them, it took the BBB complaint in order to facilitate that which is no bueno in my eyes. http://www.labbb.org/BBBWeb/Forms/Business/CompanyReportExtensionPage.aspx?CompanyID=13140291&sm=

I'd look to buy from someone else if it were my money.
 
Spedomotive has been in business since 1946 so they must have at least a few satisfied customers???

Their stroker uses standard stuff and will end up with 9.6 CR according to some calculations. For the price you get everything in one place - HESCO or other kits with custom forged pistons are better - if you want to spend another $2000 - everybody has to make their own choice.
 
it has been my experience (in Maryland and not with a 4.0L) that a stroker done properly will not dramatically increase emissions. To compensate for higher NO2 and CO (if any) just use a larger Catalytic Converter, use a high flow type and you’ll never know it’s there
 
rsalemi said:
Spedomotive has been in business since 1946 so they must have at least a few satisfied customers???

Their stroker uses standard stuff and will end up with 9.6 CR according to some calculations. For the price you get everything in one place - HESCO or other kits with custom forged pistons are better - if you want to spend another $2000 - everybody has to make their own choice.

I know of plenty of crappy businesses that have had the same name since after WWII. If they've been around that long then why are they just a small player in an iffy neighborhood? My slightly educated guess is poor work and service.
 
jeep_87_cherokee said:
i believe stock rockers are 1.6 ratio...and wouldnt that be enough for a medium size stroker build up ? or are u just looking for a higher ratio rocker to skip out of buying a high performance cam ??? dont cheat yourself out ...
and if u go the route of useing a replacement aftermarket cam , keep in mind that u might have to shim the rocker arm bride to compensate for the increase in lift so the preload on the lifters is not excessive or just purchase shorter push rods. your best first step is to find out the specs u want for the stroke such as HP, compression ratio, quelch height, and if u want to run regular gas. and then after u figured out that find what performance cam is best suited for your build...

if u are going around a 9.5:1 compression ratio and and dont mind the chance of having to use premium gas to avoid what i think is refered to as "pinging" , u should use these cams :

Crane #753905 204/216 degree cam
CompCams #68-231-4 206/214 degree cam

if u plan on building a low compression ratio stroker in the range of about like 8.8:1, and the use of 87 octane , u would benefit from a shorter duration cam like these :

Crane #750501 192/204 degree cam
CompCams #68-115-4 192/200 degree cam

i hope this kinda helped u and might solve some of your questions.
You do realize that you bumped almost a 2 year old thread? I think he has answered his own questions by now.

I asked about Speed Motive and no one said anything about it.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71849
 
jeep_87_cherokee said:
i believe stock rockers are 1.6 ratio....

Indeed that is correct

jeep_87_cherokee said:
...and wouldnt that be enough for a medium size stroker build up ?

Absolutely, especially if you use a performance cam with more lift than the stock 0.424".

jeep_87_cherokee said:
...and if u go the route of useing a replacement aftermarket cam , keep in mind that u might have to shim the rocker arm bride to compensate for the increase in lift so the preload on the lifters is not excessive or just purchase shorter push rods?

Er, no. AFAIK, just about all the aftermarket cams for the 4.0 have the same base circle as the stock cam so there's no change in lifter preload. Very high lift cams might be ground on a smaller base circle and that necessitates using LONGER pushrods.
You only need to shim the rocker arm bridges or use shorter pushrods if you've done something to increase the lifter preload (milled block deck or head surface, used thinner head gasket, reground valve seats, or used longer stem valves).

jeep_87_cherokee said:
if u are going around a 9.5:1 compression ratio and and dont mind the chance of having to use premium gas to avoid what i think is refered to as "pinging" , u should use these cams :

Crane #753905 204/216 degree cam
CompCams #68-231-4 206/214 degree cam

if u plan on building a low compression ratio stroker in the range of about like 8.8:1, and the use of 87 octane , u would benefit from a shorter duration cam like these :

Crane #750501 192/204 degree cam
CompCams #68-115-4 192/200 degree cam

i hope this kinda helped u and might solve some of your questions.

Copied straight from my stroker page so it's gotta be correct. ;)
 
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