Clayton Off Road Long Arm Upgrade!

[Clayton Off Road]

The Clayton Off Road long arm upgrade kits are perfect for anyone who has a lifted Jeep, and is looking for that next step. Our kit is intended for anyone who has a short arm lift and wants to upgrade to a high quality long arm suspension system.

Our kit comes with a 3 piece cross member, as well as upper and lower adjustable control arms.

The 3 piece cross member bolts into the oem location for alignment purposes, then welds on for strength. It features a removable center section if your drivetrain needs to be serviced without having to remove any suspension components.



For more information, pictures, and available options, visit our website: Clayton Off Road Long Arm Upgrade.

Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road

[Clayton Off Road]

Bringing this one back up, let us know if you have any questions!

Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road

[Smash Hole]

I bought one of the 3 link kits a while back and finally got it on. Is there a reason you guys don't use a left hand and right hand joint to allow easy adjustments of the links?

Also how long can I safely adjust the upper?, I think I may have to fab up a new one to get the wheelbase I want out of it.

Thanks

[bluejeepkid]

Originally Posted by chettacheez

I bought one of the 3 link kits a while back and finally got it on. Is there a reason you guys don't use a left hand and right hand joint to allow easy adjustments of the links*

Thanks

Wondered the same thing

[Smash Hole]

Originally Posted by bluejeepkid

Wondered the same thing

I was extremely disappointed when I figured that out. It's a great kit all around but IMHO it is a huge downfall that needs to be taken into consideration when choosing your long arm system.

[Johnnie Walker]

Originally Posted by chettacheez

I bought one of the 3 link kits a while back and finally got it on. Is there a reason you guys don't use a left hand and right hand joint to allow easy adjustments of the links?

Also how long can I safely adjust the upper?, I think I may have to fab up a new one to get the wheelbase I want out of it.

Thanks

Originally Posted by bluejeepkid

Wondered the same thing

Originally Posted by chettacheez

I was extremely disappointed when I figured that out. It's a great kit all around but IMHO it is a huge downfall that needs to be taken into consideration when choosing your long arm system.

How hard is it to pull one bolt, like any other adjustable arm?
With LH/RH ends, there is always a possibility of movement/unwanted adjustment if a jam nut gets loose.

[Redxj5150]

Originally Posted by Johnnie Walker

How hard is it to pull one bolt, like any other adjustable arm?
With LH/RH ends, there is always a possibility of movement/unwanted adjustment if a jam nut gets loose.

The fact that it's a 3 link probably makes that tricky a little tricky.

Do you guys offer any kind of a discount for members? I'm becoming more and more interested in your 3 link kit.

Looking in your pictures I notice the upper link seems awfully close to the driveline. Have you had any customers that have had problems with clearance at full droop?

[Clayton Off Road]

Like Johnnie Walker said, we don't want the link to unthread itself while in use.

We haven't heard anything yet from our customers yet about the link hitting the driveline using a HP30.

Alex
Marketing Director
Clayton Off Road

[Smash Hole]

Originally Posted by Johnnie Walker

How hard is it to pull one bolt, like any other adjustable arm?
With LH/RH ends, there is always a possibility of movement/unwanted adjustment if a jam nut gets loose.

It's a pain in the ass Johnny. Trying to adjust your wheelbase and caster when it's on a rack, and when you pull the single upper and the whole axle rotates. I've never had a link loosen up on me and I've never had my steering or track bar links loosen up either. Do you pull your steering apart when you need to adjust toe or trying to center the steering wheel?

Perhaps I was just expecting something a little more well engineered. Maybe you guys could offer a LH/RH option? I'm obviously not the only one who questioned it.

[Johnnie Walker]

Originally Posted by chettacheez

It's a pain in the ass Johnny. Trying to adjust your wheelbase and caster when it's on a rack, and when you pull the single upper and the whole axle rotates. I've never had a link loosen up on me and I've never had my steering or track bar links loosen up either. Do you pull your steering apart when you need to adjust toe or trying to center the steering wheel?

Perhaps I was just expecting something a little more well engineered. Maybe you guys could offer a LH/RH option? I'm obviously not the only one who questioned it.

From a manufacturing point of view, less time, effort, parts go into using the same parts both sides.

[in4aride]

Do you offer the xmember with the upper mount on the passenger side? I didn't see anything on the site.

[Smash Hole]

Originally Posted by Johnnie Walker

From a manufacturing point of view, less time, effort, parts go into using the same parts both sides.

It's a Clayton kit, not some Rough Country or other starter kit. I expect more, as you put it, "time" and "effort" to go into this system.

It's obvious you have no experience with this 3 link system. I don't want answers from you nor are my suggestions directed at you.

[Andy in Pa.]

Originally Posted by chettacheez

It's a Clayton kit, not some Rough Country or other starter kit. I expect more, as you put it, "time" and "effort" to go into this system.

It's obvious you have no experience with this 3 link system. I don't want answers from you nor are my suggestions directed at you.

I have 12 years of experience with Claytons long arms, and have only adjusted my long arms twice. Why risk putting some kind of turnbuckle type of adjustment into it, and possibly putting another failure mode into it, when its going to get adjusted once, maybe twice over its life span. I recently changed my adjustment, and even with tweaked crossmember mount pockets and 12 years of rust/dirt/grease it took me 1/2 hour to drop the arms, adjust each long arm, and bolt them back down.

[Smash Hole]

Originally Posted by Andy in Pa.

I have 12 years of experience with Claytons long arms, and have only adjusted my long arms twice. Why risk putting some kind of turnbuckle type of adjustment into it, and possibly putting another failure mode into it, when its going to get adjusted once, maybe twice over its life span. I recently changed my adjustment, and even with tweaked crossmember mount pockets and 12 years of rust/dirt/grease it took me 1/2 hour to drop the arms, adjust each long arm, and bolt them back down.

Judging by your 12 years of experience, you are not dealing with a 3 link. You are not pulling the single upper and having the whole axle twist on you while having it on an alignment rack.

I'm not running oem axles so the suggested starting points were not even close. Pulling the link, adjust, and trying to get the links back in the axle bracket, repeat was the biggest pita to do by yourself. In hindsight it was a two man job, when a single left hand thread is all that is needed to solve this issue.

Leave the RH/RH lowers. It's not a big deal, the whole axle doesn't try to twist out from underneath you and a simple roll of the tire will get you back in the axle bracket. The single upper is a whole other story.

I should of knew the Clayton fanboys would be coming out..

[Andy in Pa.]

Originally Posted by chettacheez

Judging by your 12 years of experience, you are not dealing with a 3 link. You are not pulling the single upper and having the whole axle twist on you while having it on an alignment rack.

I'm not running oem axles so the suggested starting points were not even close. Pulling the link, adjust, and trying to get the links back in the axle bracket, repeat was the biggest pita to do by yourself. In hindsight it was a two man job, when a single left hand thread is all that is needed to solve this issue.

Leave the RH/RH lowers. It's not a big deal, the whole axle doesn't try to twist out from underneath you and a simple roll of the tire will get you back in the axle bracket. The single upper is a whole other story.

I should of knew the Clayton fanboys would be coming out..

What you did was no diffrerent than installing/adjusting upper control arms on any aftermarket setup. Its always hard getting that first one in. I think the alignment rack was your problem. If you have to do it again, take the weight completely off the front axle. Just allow the tires to touch slightly. Put a jack under the yoke and adjust as needed. You can make small tweaks by putting a tire iron through the knuckle too. This always seems to work well for me.