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2000xj running hot

Clogged cats also equal reduced power. This thing has no lack of power and will lay rubber for a block or until the stupid lack of first gear hold kicks in.

Finding a junkyard head that accepts the cool over plug design will be the same crack prone 0331 unless I can find a tuppy which is near impossible and there are no u-pull it type yards anywhere near where I live.

best of luck then
 
If I go with an early head, do I have to change the exhaust too? Does anyone know if the header from an earlier one plus the down pipe will meet the cat at the correct place? I can steal the head, header, down pipe off my 91
 
How does the heater core have anything to do with cooling except when I use it to cool the engine when it's running hot? The water flows from the thermostat housing to the heater core then back to the water pump.
 
If I go with an early head, do I have to change the exhaust too? Does anyone know if the header from an earlier one plus the down pipe will meet the cat at the correct place? I can steal the head, header, down pipe off my 91

No they don't directly interchange but they do sell a adapter for it.

How does the heater core have anything to do with cooling except when I use it to cool the engine when it's running hot? The water flows from the thermostat housing to the heater core then back to the water pump.

It does supplementary cooling and circulation that's built into Jeep's barely get by theory, but it does need to have good flow.
 
Well the heat works very well, especially if it's running hot. Lol. So it's helping cooling just a tad by having water just flowing through it all the time? I don't get any heat out of it when it's off. My 91 has the valve that stops water flow to the core when the heats off, and it doesn't have the same overheat issues.

Heck, I might just swap the whole engine. Just did the timing chain in it the summer before it was demolished.
 
I could definitely Fab a bracket for the coil packs if that's all that is needed except finding metal thinner that 1/4" + hardox at work will be tough
 
Interesting but I would never rely on an msd for a daily driver or out in the woods without backup. I've had way too many of them give up the ghost out of the blue. I stopped running them years ago due to constant failures. Way better luck with Mallory and Davis/dui. But, this was with muscle cars.
 
Well the heat works very well, especially if it's running hot. Lol. So it's helping cooling just a tad by having water just flowing through it all the time? I don't get any heat out of it when it's off. My 91 has the valve that stops water flow to the core when the heats off, and it doesn't have the same overheat issues.

Heck, I might just swap the whole engine. Just did the timing chain in it the summer before it was demolished.



You sure you got it dead on ? Late timing can cause an overheat situation too.....
 
The chain was on my 91 and it's as close as you can get without dialing it in with a degree wheel. It didn't really have overheat issues unless you were pulling a long grade of switch backs on a hot Wyoming day
 
Interesting but I would never rely on an msd for a daily driver or out in the woods without backup. I've had way too many of them give up the ghost out of the blue. I stopped running them years ago due to constant failures. Way better luck with Mallory and Davis/dui. But, this was with muscle cars.

All you have to do is plug in the by-pass adapter included with the unit!
P1080701_zpsfugjobok.jpg
 
I just installed a TUPY head in my 2000 and temps have dropped 10 degrees.

Did you install a 180 or 195 thermostat?

Also, the viper coil conversion allows you to run any year cylinder head without worrying about the 00-01 coil rail.
 
So that bypass harness will allow the Jeep to run when the msd fails? I'm not running a big cam, high compression, boost, or nos so a msd has no use to me unless I want a smoother idle, which they do with multispark. The viper coil sounds interesting. Any write-ups? How's it work as the viper is a 10 cylinder vs a 6 for the Jeep?

Where'd you find the tupy head?
 
My cylinder head was originally from Clearwater Cylinder Head but was gone thru with the full works by Russ. Yes that plug bypasses the MSD if needed and the Viper uses 2coils (1x4,1x6).
https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1148702
 
Recently, my 00XJ was running a little warm. I changed out the water pump and replaced the thermostat housing with a redesigned better flowing housing. That seemed to fix my problem. Then my muffler needed replacement so I put in a cat-back Borla system which appeared to help cooldown the engine a little more. Also, in the past, I've used 1/2 or 1 inch thick aluminium spacer plates, under the hood hinges, to raise the rear of the hood a little so that more hot air gets out of the hot engine compartment.

Best regards,

CJR
 
Also, in the past, I've used 1/2 or 1 inch thick aluminium spacer plates, under the hood hinges, to raise the rear of the hood a little so that more hot air gets out of the hot engine compartment.

Best regards,

CJR

I would not suggest this, it's a band-aid and may very well cause a problem at higher speeds.
 
RCP Phx,

With all due respect. I don't feel that this is a "band-aid fix" at all. When I first bought my 00XJ, the engine compartment had a plastic cover that completely sealed the bottom of the engine compartment. So the only air entering the engine compartment was through the radiator. The only exit for the hot air was to flow pass the bell-housing and downward. The air flow appeared to slow and "dead-head" in the engine compartment and raise the engine temperatures. I chucked the plastic cover, cooling improved and engine temperature went down. Likewise the riser blocks, to raise the rear of the hood, also increased air flow out of the engine compartment and lowered the engine temperature more. Likewise, my modified 88XJ (Static CR: 11.25:1) has been running the riser blocks on the rear of the hood, for about 300,000 miles now. The riser blocks help to remove more hot air from the engine compartment and the engine temperature is significantly lower. Getting the hot air out of the engine compartment is key to lowering engine temperatures. In my son's 69 Camaro, with a 4-row Griffin radiator and lowered body, the fuel would boil in the lines feeding the carb. After installing a heat insulator and a heat reflective aluminium sheet under the carb and tape insulating the headers, the final fix was to cut exhaust vents in the fenders to get the hot air out of the engine compartment and cool the engine down. Then the 69 Camaro ran fine in heavy traffic and 100+ degree days.

So you and I will have to agree to disagree on what you view as a "band-aid cooling fix".

Best regards,

CJR
 
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