siezed spark plugs

is this a common problem? tune up on my 87 last weekend, what a B&%CH!! cylinder #2 3 4 and 5 were fine.... #1 i twisted off just the "hex" part of the body... center electrode came righ tout and left the threaded body in the head!!! a lil workin with my set of easyouts it came out... thankfully without the threads from the head..... #6 has been soaked with PB blaster daily since then and it wont budge! i think the previous owner left it in for the same reason... i'd leave it but it seems to have a "skip" in the exhaust sound... i tried running it and removing it when its 200 deg..... no dice.... i will not let this beat me! it WILL come out.... any ideas? ithanx guys....

I've had good and bad reults with this method.You might try tightening SLIGHTLY to break it loose.I dont think I would recomend the tapping with hammer method on a spark plug,core not very strong.PB blaster is good stuff thats what I use.Good luck.

Wish I could be of help on the removal, but I've never had this problem.

When you install the new plugs, though, use some anti-seize.

I've always smeared a little silver Permatex anti-seize on plugs when I install them, and never had a one get stuck and not come back out.

Rob

Sid, let the engine cool completely, preferably overnight. Then use a pull handle and socket, and tap the end of the handle with a hammer. Don't try to break it loose with one big tap, use several small taps. This acts like an impact wrench, producing vibrations that will loosen the threads.

An impact wrench will loosen it, if you have access to one. You'll have to use a swivel since it's on #6, and use the lowest setting on the impact wrench.

Rob has a good tip on the anti-seize. I always use it on sparkplugs.

i had this happen on a old chevy truck i was working on for a friend. get a torch with a welding tip and heat the broken plug section so it's cherry red and then let it cool completely. then use your easy out set, it'll come right out. by the way, don't heat the head, just the threaded section of plug.... use the hole in the center of the plug as a access point

This may help you. The suggestion was made to use an impact wrench to vibrate the spark plug out of the head. Most of us do not have pneumatic (air) tools but I have a suggestion of something you already have in your tool box.

If you have a cardless drill with a clutch then you already have a battery powered impact wrench. You may have to get an cheap extension and cut it off so you can insert it into the chuck of the coldless drill.

I used mine recently when taking out the screws holding the lower support for the fixed windows in the back seat doors. You can start at a low setting on the clutch then work up until the spark plug in your case moves. Remember the pulses when it not turning are still doing you good by setting up vibrations.

Hope that helps.

Martin

If you've broken out the centre, fetch it a few taps (directly on the metal) with a light mallet and that should help. PB Blaster is also a help. Make sure to use never-seez - I prefer the Copper-based version over the nickel for this, it's a little better in high heat, and I seem to recall Copper being a little more conductive than Nickel.

Trying to tighten 10* or so then breaking loose the other way is also helpful - kinda gives you a "running go" when you start loosening. It's worked for me before...

5-90

hey thanks alot guys.... i did get the broken one out that day... just tryin my hardest to NOT break the last one.... honestly i havent done anything with it but soak it with PB all week .... im sure its just stuck due to neglect.. and years of new england weather... (its got the cancer to prove that) i will have it out tommorow, just lookin for ideas and a lil moral support....
why cant i figure out how to attatch a pic to my reply?

duh..... i figured it out..... this is the one i broke.. never done it like this before, i figured id share it for the hell of it...

Another trick is to heat the engine up nice and hot so that the plug is realy hot and then quickly dump some cold water on the spark plug, that should make the plug contact faster than the cyl head and ease in the removal. Also if you have no impact gun or compressed air and want to go that route, and if the space is available using an Impact Driver with a socket rather than a screwdriver tip can also help to remove them.

seized plug

Go to Dodge/Chrysler dealer and buy a can of MOPAR carb & choke penetrant. The stuff works better than anything I've ever used. Kinda comes out like a grey/black foamy/liquid. Take a propane torch ($30 @ Home Depot) and heat the surrounding area a little (around 200*F) then spray this on plug and let it sit. Torch will come in handy for removing rusty bolts & nuts in future if you don't have one now.
BLUTO