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2nd Gen Dodge Cummins VS. 2nd Gen Gasser

kmanxj5050

NAXJA Forum User
Im in love with this truck.

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=231053

But can buy a 98-01 Gasser for around 4k.

What do you guys think would be best?

Pros and cons.

I may tow my jeep 1 to 2 times a month. (currently my DD)

heep1.jpg
 
Diesel Pros:
- More power/easier towing
- Better fuel mileage
- Longer lifespan

Cons:
- More expensive initial cost
- Harder on parts due to power and weight

Gasser Pros:
- Cheaper initial cost
- Easier on parts
- Quieter (if that makes a difference to you)

Cons:
- Less power
- Worse fuel mileage
- Less resale value

This is a debate that could go on and on forever, and a lot of variables come into play.

How far do you plan on towing? If you're looking in the 2nd gen Dodge range, I'd go with at least a 3/4 ton since it will have heavier duty suspension/brakes/steering.
 
^This.

Are you going to DD the truck or the Jeep? Diesel is ~.20/gal higher here, which is making it cheaper for me to DD the Jeep instead of the diesel Sub. If I had a little more disposable income, I would sell the Sub and buy a 1500HD or 2500 GMC 6.0L CCLB gas pickup for tow/DD duty.
 
i would prob keep the jeep insured and drive it on nice days, to take the kid to get ice cream and to get to local trails.

I only live 4 miles from work so the amount of driving I do is minimal, Unless of course i had a diesel I'd probably drive it more on the weekends than the wife's XJ (what we use for traveling any distance), simply for the "kool" factor.
 
I would definitely get a 12 valve cummins or a 24 valve. 24 valve is nice and powerful, but the 12 valve is literally unkillable. I'd go the 12 valve/manual tranny if you can find one. Trannys in those 24 valve cummins are known for giving some issues, mostly shifting in and out of overdrive.
 
Definitely seems like a good deal, they sell around here for about 10k or so. If everything checks out I would definitely pick it up. Should be a 12v if i remember correctly, only downside to the 12v is you wont be able to chip it like you can the 24v if that was your plans. You can make massive amounts of power out of the 12v tho..

Well if this helps, if it was near me i know at least 4 people that would be fighting to buy that thing right now.
 
Nice. Its a 12v. Which I like, I've heard they're more mechanical and easier to work on. Which I like being my first diesel.
BEFORE you say that...... remember that diesel injection systems are *NOTHING* like anything else you've worked on. These fuel systems are very, very clean inside, and very high pressure. The shop manual for my 2nd Gen 24v says upwards of 17,000 psi in the high pressure lines, and the newer CR engines are even higher.
 
I would jump on that truck, wont last long, the truck is worth that price in stock form. My buddy had a 12v dually that he ran for 4 years without an air filter and a rag as a oil cap.. thing was straight up abused, ran exactly the same as the day he got it. If it were near me i would buy that thing.. unless its not finished yet, diesel parts are alot more expensive than gas burner parts, but in the long run its still alot cheaper than a gas burner especially considering diesels dont really get broke in until like 200k miles

But as far as the engine goes.. I doubt you will ever even have to touch that engine, thing will far outlast the frame it sets on.
 
There's no comparison in my opinion I just bought my truck last month, 363k miles. Its clearly better all around and able to do the job of 3 gassers. All while getting 22mpg EASILY daily driving.

When's the last time you seen a half ton gasser 10-15 year old truck with almost 400k that was desirable?

Towing my 7k pound load at 70mph, eating cheeseburgers, playing on my phone while picking my nose forgetting the trailer is back there is nice! In a half ton, your going to be "both hands on wheel with one eye on the mirror the WHOLE time"

My $0.02
 
Diesel... the older the better. You won't be able to chip them as much as the new stuff, but when you pop the hood you'll see a diesel engine, rather than a bunch of plastic crap and the emissions engine spider from hell. My ideal diesel would be a Gen1 Cummins. need more power? adjust the pump/governor. Sure chipping is easier, but the new ones won't run without a battery.

The newer ones have a lot more emissions crap, and they're always in the shop (thank you EPA). My work uses International trucks with the new DT466 equivalent (Maxxforce something), and the oldest has the DT466E. The old DT466E (early 2000s) is more reliable than the maxxforce powered trucks- due to egr cooler leaks, dpf issues, and other emissions related crap.

If you insist on a newer diesel, keep it pre-2007. No EGR coolers or DPF systems to worry about. Fewer parts, better reliability. And still chippable.

*note on chips*
1. make sure the transmission has adequate cooling. I'd upgrade the oil pan with a high capacity one, or at the least install a heavy duty transmission cooler.

2. Keep exhaust temperatures in check. Get a EGT gauge and some mods (exhaust) will help keep them down when the fuel is turned up.
 
If you want reliability/low cost, keep the thing stock.

My '01 CTD has plenty of balls to pull my 7k trailer (~2200 lb) and probably 5k lb + MJ without a problem.

And it's rated at 235 hp and 460 lb ft of torque. Which is pretty mild compared to newer diesels and even gassers.
 
If you want reliability/low cost, keep the thing stock.

My '01 CTD has plenty of balls to pull my 7k trailer (~2200 lb) and probably 5k lb + MJ without a problem.

And it's rated at 235 hp and 460 lb ft of torque. Which is pretty mild compared to newer diesels and even gassers.


That's the plan. Reliable DD then tow rig.

Everybody think that 97 is a good deal?
 
All I will say is once you have towed with a diesel you will never have another gas vehicle again if you tow allot. There is a simple reason why all those trucks you see hauling things are diesel. As far as that year its a good year. One HUGE problem I see with this truck and what he has done to it is the fact that he removed the fuel plate, though removing the fuel plate in itself is not bad which is what I have done to mine, the transmission is either shot already or going to be real soon. Anyone telling you otherwise has not done there research or had a truck like that with those mods. Good mods for power but its kinda putting the horse before the cart. First thing he should have done which you will need is a good set of gauges for EGT, Trans Temp, Fuel Pres, and Boost. Then you will want Exhaust and Intake and then the AFC mods. Governor springs, timing and other things can be done after that. As far as price, in my area that would be an OK price but not what I would spend for it. I paid 8k for mine, its a 96 5spd 4x4 club cab with all options and 217K miles on it when I bought it. My dad just bought his 01 Auto 4x4 club cab with all options including intake and exhaust with 157K miles on it in sweet shape for 9K. Bottom line shop for a truck, try to find a stock one is my best advice, and if you lucky like me you will find a one owner truck with all maintenance records. Took me almost 6 months to find one. Sorry for the long winded comment.

Also a quick comment. With that many miles plan on replacing stock parts very very soon such as ALL U-joints even in your front axles. Ball joints, Steering tie rods and trackbar, Steering gear box and Unit Bearings. About 1 1/2k worth of parts easily if you do the work yourself and dont buy cheap crappy parts but stock or better.
 
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Did you buy it? Says no longer for sale.

I'd go diesel! Just stay out of the new stuff. I just got rid of my 07 5.9 cummins and in my opinion the common rails are crap. It was the least reliable of any diesel i have owned. Oh and injectors are $600 each to.

I've had 2 24 valves a 99 and 98.5, one auto one 5 speed. Both were good trucks but in both the transmissions are the weak link. If you do a manual trans truck I'd look for a 6 speed 2nd gen the NV5600 is a much better trans.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nothing wrong with NV4500s.

150k on mine. Only thing that happened was the rear output/5th gear housing cracked from me being an idiot (1st gear wheel hopping with a trailer and blew up the trans mount).

I think the whole 5th gear backing off thing is overhyped for STOCK trucks.
 
Actually, the 5th gear nut is a problem for earlier NV4500s, but only in the diesels, I think. And usually backs off due to vibrations while lugging the engine. By '98 or '99, I think that NV/NP had the fix figured out.

I'd love a 6spd in mine, if my 5spd in my 99 24v ever craps out, I'll have to really think about putting in a rebuilt 6spd instead. Yes, I know it'll cost me a couple of drive shafts, and I've already got the 12" clutch (SB conOFE.)
 
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