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Raise the trac bar

techno1154

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
In the islands
What's the pros and cons to raising the frame side trac bar 1 inch? I am, doing a mockup of the JK D44 (no springs) and running it through it's cycle. When fully compressed with 3 inches of bump stop, the trac bar touches the diff cover. Both brackets and the trac bar are from StinkyFab for use on the XJ. https://www.stinkyfab.com/collections/jeep-xj-cherokee-parts/products/sfr-otk-track-bar-kit-for-jeep-xj-mj-zj
The diff cover is from Ruff Stuff.

The 1 inch raise would be accomplished by drilling new bolt holes 1 inch higher.
 
Track needs to be parallel to drag link.

Raising it could mess things up causeing bump steer death wobble and intense fire

Put an angle finder on both bars to see what youve got going on. This will tell you if its pretty close or if if it needs tuned for height one way or the other.

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Neglecting the relationship to the drag link, raising the track bar on the frame side only will cause the axle to shift laterally under suspension cycling more than it would in its current state. Keep in mind, its only an inch difference, so the effect will be very minimal, likely unnoticeable.

It will also affect your roll center height at the front end. Typically you want your track bar pivots to be as high as possible (i.e. track bar right against the oil pan at full stuff) which keeps your roll center higher, thus closer to your center of gravity, to give greater resistance to body roll.

Again, you're not going to notice an inch (dirty joke loading....). Do what you need to do to make it fit and keep it parallel with the drag link.
 
I think this about the only place an inch is noticed 1" outa parrel = bump steer

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Other things to consider..... the tracbar tubing does not have be a straight piece, move the mounts forward, and is the axle were it needs to be fore/aft?
 
Roll center will raise, which is good on an XJ. Only half an inch though...

Other than that, the bushings will bind quicker (depending on orientation) since the angle will increase, but over a typical 30"+ track bar, meh. :D
 
Track needs to be parallel to drag link.

Raising it could mess things up causeing bump steer death wobble and intense fire

Put an angle finder on both bars to see what youve got going on. This will tell you if its pretty close or if if it needs tuned for height one way or the other.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

The tracbar and draglink are not parallel. At the axle end, the draglink is much lower than the tracbar. If I lower the tracbar to mimic the draglikn it will be ontop of the diff cover at all but ride height. I think an OTK draglink will solve that problem.


Neglecting the relationship to the drag link, raising the track bar on the frame side only will cause the axle to shift laterally under suspension cycling more than it would in its current state. Keep in mind, its only an inch difference, so the effect will be very minimal, likely unnoticeable.

It will also affect your roll center height at the front end. Typically you want your track bar pivots to be as high as possible (i.e. track bar right against the oil pan at full stuff) which keeps your roll center higher, thus closer to your center of gravity, to give greater resistance to body roll.

Again, you're not going to notice an inch (dirty joke loading....). Do what you need to do to make it fit and keep it parallel with the drag link.

I won't notice an inch? :huh::doh:
At ride height, the XJ is 4.5 inches. I could bumpstop 4 inches instead of the 3 that I want. But why add another inch?:wow:


Other things to consider..... the tracbar tubing does not have be a straight piece, move the mounts forward, and is the axle were it needs to be fore/aft?

The tracbar from StinkyFad is a straight piece of 1.5" OD aluminum. Moving the mount forward would require re-fabrication or maybe a whole new piece.

I do drive fast but not crazy unlike lost of our other Floridians but I do exit off the highway at Florida highway speed. Now I need to through roll center in the equation.
 
I won't notice an inch? :huh::doh:
At ride height, the XJ is 4.5 inches. I could bumpstop 4 inches instead of the 3 that I want. But why add another inch?:wow:

I must have not communicated well. You won't notice the effect of roll center change from moving your track bar an inch.
 
I spent some time under the XJ again. The way I see it is... if shortening the trac bar bracket a little will have no dangerous effects on the handling I would go ahead and raise it by an inch.

At ride height with the trac bar at the highest point on the axle end, it is above the draglink axle end. An OTK draglink will bring things back to acceptable parameters.
 
I must have not communicated well. You won't notice the effect of roll center change from moving your track bar an inch.

Thank you. Thats what I want to hear. And I did understand that in your earlier post. I wanted to read all the replies and let them sink in.
 
Heres my old set up . Over the axle track bar and also adjustable on frame side. I can't find pics of what frame side looked like then


Next pics are current over the axle track. Frame/axle side is tunable. Track kissing oil pan at full stuff.

This steering doesn't flex steer hardly at all. The 1ton steering would steer pretty bad under articulation.

I really have no idea how a guy can get propper steering bolting stuff together.

My shit ive putt together cut apart so many times. Finally got smarter(not smart) and started building options into everything cause chances are if i have one bolt hole id wish for that 1" one way or the other.
86a064540c41ee656f284db0c7b4d259.jpg
438fc797b8201f426233a324a4d21ef6.jpg
aa3cad4529efae68a414df87ae524567.jpg
82ad78d0036ed15bb75867374f632b2d.jpg
3c91c2cf05eb9f34b4708edcf3a97e92.jpg


Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
Heres my old set up . Over the axle track bar and also adjustable on frame side. I can't find pics of what frame side looked like then


Next pics are current over the axle track. Frame/axle side is tunable. Track kissing oil pan at full stuff.

This steering doesn't flex steer hardly at all. The 1ton steering would steer pretty bad under articulation.

I really have no idea how a guy can get propper steering bolting stuff together.

My shit ive putt together cut apart so many times. Finally got smarter(not smart) and started building options into everything cause chances are if i have one bolt hole id wish for that 1" one way or the other.
438fc797b8201f426233a324a4d21ef6.jpg
aa3cad4529efae68a414df87ae524567.jpg
3c91c2cf05eb9f34b4708edcf3a97e92.jpg


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I like what you have there. I am setting mine up like yours except I am working with a JK D44.
I stop the up travel based on the shock compressed length which will keep the trac bar about 3 inches from the oil pan. For the OEM JK draglink, I have sourced a right-hand drive JK link which will curve correctly when used OTK on a left-hand drive JK in my case XJ. I guess I could get more up travel if I extend the shock mounts lower.

If I move the body side trackbar mount up 1 inch and at maximum height on the axel side will give me about 1/2-inch clearance above the diff cover. All my measurements were taken at my preferred bump stop position and at ride height.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=R2518

The cover I have installed to work with the hydro assist steering.
 
I set up for 5" up travel 7 down and low as possible i saddly had to lift almost an inch to do this to clear oil pan
I might do a hp ford 44 some day.
9757e1d4e8f9ce52142c1d81ce46820b.jpg


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Wait yours is left hand drive?

Offroad design used to sell a curved drag link bar a s bend to clear oil pan and stuff. Might work as a drag or track bar

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Wait yours is left hand drive?

Offroad design used to sell a curved drag link bar a s bend to clear oil pan and stuff. Might work as a drag or track bar

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

Yes, it is left hand drive. I saw some right-hand drive draglink online yesterday. I need to order one. I will have to drill the knuckle out and drop in a tapered bushing.

The travel will be less, 4 inches up and 6 down...enough for a 95% highway crawler. :laugh3:
 
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