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Teraflex Disc Brake Upgrade Installation Notes

T

tumble

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tacoma, WA
I recently installed the Teraflex Disc Brake Conversion onto a 1997 XJ with the Chrysler 8.25 rear axle. I don't have extensive photos of this, but thought I'd pass along the same notes that I gave to Teraflex.

Installation Notes
  1. The instructions are written for a professional mechanic. Step 19 casually mentions "You will need to purchase shorter metal lines from an auto parts supplier." In my case I completed replaced the left hard line and was able to shorten and double flare the original right hard line. The instruction step really minimizes that the step is basically "Replace your brake lines"
  2. I absolutely had to replace my wheel studs with longer wheel studs. The new brake rotor is a bit thicker than the original drum, and this limited the thread engagement with the lug nuts. Luckily I test fit this before reinstalling the axle shafts. The wheel stud part number is NAPA Belkamp #6413204.
  3. I had to replace my axle flange bolts as well. The instructions don't indicate this, and in fact prompt you to re-use the factory bolts. In my case they simply weren't long enough to engage nuts on the front of the new backing plate. I used 1.5 inch 3/16-24 thread grade 8 bolts in place of the factory axle flange studs with the head of the bolt on the flange side.
  4. The instructions for the 8.25 indicate that you should not replace the wheel bearings. I don't see any reason not to spend the extra $40 while you've got everything open. I replaced them. I was surprised that NAPA spec'd a non-flange bearing seal (16404) instead of a flanged seal, but it installed well and has not leaked.
  5. The kit is advertised as "bolt-on" but step 18 includes welding the new soft brake line tabs to the axle. The instructions don't specify a brake line routing, and I've decided to run mine directly trailing the axle. I'm still experimenting with locations, and so my tabs are held with strap clamps until I finalize that location.
  6. The emergency brake cables are purchased separately and you can choose the best routing for you.


Review
I've only got about 100 miles on these new brakes following a typical break in procedure. They feel good and stop with progressive pedal feel and predictable control. The kit does not require a proportioning valve change, and I've not noticed any bias problems. I will know more after I get to do some low traction braking in snow or gravel. I have not done any high speed panic stops yet. Overall, I'm pleased with the conversion. I can't say that I have significantly improved braking, but I'm certain I have simplified maintenance.
If you view this conversion as a bit of a hobby project, I think it's worth doing.


Final Product
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Cost to is high. I did my entire WJ/KJ conversion(including knuckles) with Cryo'ed rotors and Z36 pads for less than that!
 
I bought almost everything new and still paid less than $600.
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I've seen that the WJ knuckles need a small shim for use on the XJ, did you have that welded or was it needed on your application?
 
Yes I did weld mine on. That's not a easy job if your thinking about it.
 
Yeah, I'm not excited about jumping into welding cast iron. I think I'd send that to a pro. What did you do for steering linkages?
 
I'm running the stock style steering and trackbar. It's actually the Currie Correctlink and a Rubicon HD trackbar and drop bracket.
 
Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I believe my new rotors are from a TJ Rubicon, and I'm curious if you ran into similar issues with thread engagement. Did you end up needing to swap wheel studs or axle flange studs?
 
I bought them last year but finally installed them a couple weeks ago. The originals were just a little short but not enough to really worry about.
 
The knuckles are cast steel, not cast iron. They are plenty easy to weld the spacers to for a WJ swap. Just pre/post heat with a propane torch and let cool slowly.
 
DutchVDub said:
The knuckles are cast steel, not cast iron. They are plenty easy to weld the spacers to for a WJ swap. Just pre/post heat with a propane torch and let cool slowly.
Click to expand...

I have welded spacers on WJ knuckles for 6 swaps, including my own, with zero issues.
The knuckles are steel, not cast iron and I simply pre-heat the knuckle with a propane torch before MIG welding the spacers on solid. No real need to post-heat. Ship them to me an I'll weld them for you. :thumbup:

I used new WJ rotors and Akebono calipers with 2003 TJ unit bearings. The rotors I redrilled using the XJ rotor as a template for the bolt pattern. Rotors are hub-centric in alignment, so the stud holes don't need to be precision machined, I just laid them out with a scribe, center-punched the holes and drilled a 3/16 pilot hole first.

For steering, I moved my linkage Over the Knuckle using GoFerIt weld-in taper inserts and run Teraflex 1-ton offset TRE's at the knuckle with custom 1.5" DOM tubing. Trackbar is raised as well and is fabbed from 1.5" DOM. I'm running Teraflex HD WJ/JK upper and lower ball joints.

I have about 80k miles on this setup with zero issues.

Build thread - https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=9
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all of the great info. The WJ swap is on my radar as my next major project. Next weekend I'm going to start on a Boostwerks Engineering hidden winch mount. I've got the wiring ready and the coolant tank relocated, it's now time to start cutting.
 
Hey XJEEPER - one more question for you about the WJ brake calipers - I've currently got a set of wheels that are 15x8 with a 3 5/8 backspacing, and I'd love to able to keep them. I'm worried that the inside diameter of the wheel won't offer enough clearance for the larger brakes. I haven't measured at the junkyard yet to see what I'm in for. What's been your experience with wheel sizes and the WJ brakes?
 
tumble said:
Hey XJEEPER - one more question for you about the WJ brake calipers - I've currently got a set of wheels that are 15x8 with a 3 5/8 backspacing, and I'd love to able to keep them. I'm worried that the inside diameter of the wheel won't offer enough clearance for the larger brakes. I haven't measured at the junkyard yet to see what I'm in for. What's been your experience with wheel sizes and the WJ brakes?
Click to expand...

That will be a close call, are they steel or aluminum?
 
For the price of those Teraflex you could have saved a few more pennies and got the Wilwood.
Reason for my 18" wheels, I have a dream of 15" rotors and 6 pots up front.

 
They are aluminum. Do you think I can get an accurate measurement if I measure at the junkyard on a WJ that has the correct calipers?
 
Aluminum wheels are the problem ones as they are thicker than steel in that area. I don't see why you couldn't get a decent measurement though. Remember to measure at the different depth's and profiles.
 
Thanks y'all. Much appreciated.

Do we have a guide anywhere with the various disc brake conversion options listed? I'd have loved to see a list including KJ, WJ, Teraflex, Willwood, etc listed in one spot.
 
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