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track bar/ control arms
- Thread starter kimberxj
- Start date
- Location
- San Diego
i would get the trackbar new. but you could find used control arms in good shape from someone that recently lifted their rig. i put a used LCA on my rig when it was stock without a problem. just be sure the bushings are in good shape. but you can get cheap replacements new on quadratec for fairly cheap
- Location
- San Diego
all control arms were the same for stock XJ's
quadratec is super cheap! why? also they say that the lower control arm is very difficult to replace. is this true? i have moderate mechanical skills. i'm a girl who wasn't brought up fixing cars. but i have tools and have replaced valve cover gasket, all shocks, fan clutch, radiator, serp belt, new battery cables, tune up, all new fluids, etc... but the suspension is shot and i'm broke and i don't know what is the best route to take!!!
- Location
- Southern Maryland
What's wrong with your control arms?
There's not a lot of weight on them but there can be a lot of pressure, and the axle will want to kick out when the arms are removed. All you really need to do is lock the jeep in place with parking brake so it won't move away, and then figure out a way of preventing the axle from rotating when the arms are removed, such as with chocks or tie-down straps or whatever you've got (I found it easy to use a come-along and pull it taut so that the axle was unbound from the arms). From there it's a basic matter of getting them off and putting new ones on. One bolt and nut at the end of each arm. Use PB Blaster to help the hardware break loose. They are cranked down pretty hard, around 100 lb of torque if I remember correctly.
There's not a lot of weight on them but there can be a lot of pressure, and the axle will want to kick out when the arms are removed. All you really need to do is lock the jeep in place with parking brake so it won't move away, and then figure out a way of preventing the axle from rotating when the arms are removed, such as with chocks or tie-down straps or whatever you've got (I found it easy to use a come-along and pull it taut so that the axle was unbound from the arms). From there it's a basic matter of getting them off and putting new ones on. One bolt and nut at the end of each arm. Use PB Blaster to help the hardware break loose. They are cranked down pretty hard, around 100 lb of torque if I remember correctly.
ive had a increasing knock when i turn right. i took it into 4x4 parts and they said that track bar is shot and upper and lower control arms are shot. why are stock control arms at quardatec only $38 and the "new" upgraded ones that come with lift kits are like $200?
- Location
- Southern Maryland
the stock parts are pretty flimsy compared to aftermarket stuff
stock lower control arms are basically folded sheet metal with fixed rubber bushings
aftermarket control are heavy gauge steel, threaded, adjustable, metal bushings, etc
big difference in engineering and production
stock lower control arms are basically folded sheet metal with fixed rubber bushings
aftermarket control are heavy gauge steel, threaded, adjustable, metal bushings, etc
big difference in engineering and production
- Location
- WA state
... note that not ALL aftermarket control arms are adjustable like shown above. But are better than stock. If you can find some decent WJ control arms cheap, they are a step up from stockers
- Location
- San Diego
when i replaced one of my LCA's i had no issue with the axle moving when i went to put the new one on. i would think that if you do one at a time the axle couldnt move, not anymore than it would if it were a three link. but they are VERY tight like ehall said.
- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
X2^ this is the best advice you'll get-- one arm at a time and you shouldn't have any problems. The lower arms will come with new bushings, but the axle side bushings on the upper arms are pressed into the axle instead of the arm. If they're worn too, hit the local parts store and see about renting a ball joint press to change them out.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Definitely do one at a time, the axle can't move very far that way. Also I'd suggest jacking it up and putting jackstands under the frame and letting the axle hang free so that there isn't as much pressure on the control arms.
If they're rusty at all, it may be easier to just buy new bolts and cut the old ones off - I'm a big fan of doing that because my XJ is a rustbucket. I'm not sure which oakland you live in, but if it's the one in california you can ignore this... PB-blaster will definitely be your friend though, spray it on the bolts at each control arm bushing every morning and evening for a few days before starting.
If they're rusty at all, it may be easier to just buy new bolts and cut the old ones off - I'm a big fan of doing that because my XJ is a rustbucket. I'm not sure which oakland you live in, but if it's the one in california you can ignore this... PB-blaster will definitely be your friend though, spray it on the bolts at each control arm bushing every morning and evening for a few days before starting.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
A ratchet strap is a handing thing to have around in case things don't line up, just use it like a come-along.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
gradon - wow, I didn't even notice till you said that. Yeah apparently it's a goner!
X2 on the ratchet strap, another great thing to have around is a 36" wrecking bar, and I made great use of my OEM bottle jack while installing my leafs + coils.
X2 on the ratchet strap, another great thing to have around is a 36" wrecking bar, and I made great use of my OEM bottle jack while installing my leafs + coils.
