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New Waggy 44's Build (YOUR BUILD)

98XJLongBuild

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Jose, CA.
Alright everyone it's official know, I am the proud new owner of a matching set of 1989 waggy 44's (Non-Vacum) with only 113,000 miles on them. Know the "mutli grand" question is what to put in them. Before anyone ask's the normal question of "Have you done any research" and the answer is YES so don't ask. This post is mostly to see what you all as individuals would do with these axles. Don't bother worring about the end cost, cause the ultimate goal with these axles is to have a rock crawler when I'm done with them. I have already got myself prepeared to deal with the $2,500 per axle cost. Most important part to remeber is that its not your money being spent. So go crazy :gee:.

My current set-up is a 98 Sport XJ with 6.5" lift, currently sitting on 33" tires when the Waggy's go in I'll be sitting on 35" with bed locks,as well as Y-link long arm kit, as well as all around frame stiffner, Tom Woods rear drive line, stock front drive line, SYE installed.

The parts I do and must have are Fully locked, disc brakes all around, Bilstein shocks, Heavy duty diff. covers, High steer, maybe hydralic assit or full hydr. steer

Remember this is your ultimate place to dream of the ULTIMATE WAGGY 44's. Have a ball.

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So you did the research but you want us to tell you how we would build them? How are you going to build them? Thinking of ultimate and no price range I wouldn’t have started with a low pinion waggy 44, I would have at least found a ford high pinion 44 and shortened to waggy shaft length.

But if you must,
-tnt truss + more gussets/c-gussets
-arb/ ox
-RCVs
-rotate knuckles for clearance and castor
-high steer with one ton steering
-full rebuild/ balljoints, bearings.....

The rear I have no input, havent looked into one.
 
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theres no reason to go 'insane' on waggy 44s. its not worth the cash. $2500 per axle can go by REAL fast. wanna run 35s? my list would be:

front:
nitro alloy front shafts w/ spicer 760s.
crossover steering (non hydro)
truss + gussets
all new quality bearings/seals/hubs etc.

rear:
alloys, go to 33 spline shafts
truss
discs (duh)

lockers? your choice. got $ to burn? selectable f/r. if not, autolockers will be just fine.

with just what i listed with autolockers you're looking at close to $2k. throw in steering links, diff covers, shocks, brake stuff... another few hundred. add a front selectable and a rear full case locker (which you probably need anyway, idk if there are 33 spline 44 autolockers) and thats another grand.... just like that you're at $3500-$4000 deep. what about gears? you get those? plan on installing them yourself? even if you do, thats another $450... if someone else is doing the labor, plan on ~$300 per axle.

theres your $5000.
 
I've run 36" Swampers on my waggy rear for almost 10 years and have only broken the rear shaft once.
Would I like alloys? YES!!
I also have 4.88s and a spooled rear. For a while I ran that behind a 2.5L with an AX5. I know not tons of torque. The rest of the time has been behind a 4.0 with an AW4.
To do it over I would go with an ARB so I could do cutting brakes instead of the spool.

Front I run a Lock Right with Alloy USA shafts and Warn hubs.
Prior to the alloys I broke fronts all the time.
I don't have trusses or gussets and I wheel pretty hard. I guess it wouldn't hurt but no sense doing it until I need to.
To do it over I would do an ARB and save the money on the hubs and run slugs. No real reason why just don't use the hubs since its a trail rig.

For $2500 per axle I would go with a 60/14 combowith gears and lockers. A TON stronger for crawling and will hold up to 35s. Hell 38s.
Good luck,
Stukboy
 
Okay I've finally started to put money into my Jeep and not into my supermoto.

Question this time is it better to put the inners in first then the put the truss and brackets on or the brackets and then inners in. Or does it not matter which order?

Thanks
 
28705d1249474228-my-new-straight-razor-stand-44789.-thread-completely-useless-without-images-1-.jpg
 
no, sorry i forgot i wasnt on bimmerfest where my post count is in the tens of thousands. please still consider me a newb and bash me mercilessly.

I'll add my own rearend since this thread has none
184975_204532966226657_100000098646211_809479_2113733_n.jpg
 
no, sorry i forgot i wasnt on bimmerfest where my post count is in the tens of thousands. please still consider me a newb and bash me mercilessly.

I'll add my own rearend since this thread has none
184975_204532966226657_100000098646211_809479_2113733_n.jpg

Has none what?
I don't understand what your huge post count has to do with anything...
Maybe I'm confused or just ignorant. Are you intending to run a 3 link with no tracbar on the rear or is there more I'm not seeing? Also, is the upper link welded directly to the housing? One more thing, it's hard to tell from the picture but isn't that an C8.25? Maybe not, it's hard to tell.



Back OT: Personally, I'm with everyone else. If I were to do it again and wanted to stay narrow I would have either narrowed a HP60 or HP44. I dropped way too much money in my 30. Now I've dropped way too much money in my 44. Next, I'm sure I'll drop way too much money in my 60.

I built my Waggy 44 like so:

4.56 Cryo'd
Ruff Stuff Cover
Truss
Full Carrier Detroit Locker
Yukon Alloy Shafts
Yukon Super joints
Warn Premium Hubs
5 lug conversion
All new complete rebuild. Bearings, races, seals, ball joints and brakes.

I have an 8.8 out back with wheel adapters, gears and a Detroit.
 
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This is the way I see it. If I were you witch I am not, I would just go and buy axles already done by g2 or Dynatrac. Why you may ask? Because the front you have is a low pinion which is no better then a hp30 with alloy shafts and a good cover. So if you do spend $2500.00 for another 2 or $300.00 you could have a G2 HP44 all done ready to bolt in with an ARB full alloys custom heavy wall tubes and any gears you want up to 5.38. I think there rear axles are cheeper yet like $1900.00

Crazymoose1990 is just finishing up his hp44/9" build. He in a round about way already told me if he knew what he knows now about building custom axles to run 35's he would have just bought a set of axles and been done with it. He said he would have been money ahead and his jeep wouldn't have been parked for 5 months.

Dave
 
no, sorry i forgot i wasnt on bimmerfest where my post count is in the tens of thousands. please still consider me a newb and bash me mercilessly.

I'll add my own rearend since this thread has none
184975_204532966226657_100000098646211_809479_2113733_n.jpg

Also why is the truss hanging down and can you still remove the gear set with it there?
 
Having built a pretty baller set of 44's, I would never recommend it unless you can get a really good deal on a used set.


For what I have into them, I should have built D60s. A D30 will run 35s, a front 44 will run 37s, but a rear 44 will not last all that long.
Keep the 30, polish it and call it good.



If you care to read (some pretty good links in it too), heres my build thread:
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=993467

44332_10150225380815234_748960233_14128304_534790_n.jpg
 
Jana J4s.
 
I don't know why people sit here and say HP30s handle 35s and that a HP30 is the same strength as a LP44.

I blew up a HP30 4.88 gearset in two trail runs with stock shafts and x760s on 35s.

I'd put very little money in the LP44s and run them. A definite upgrade over a HP30.
 
I don't know why people sit here and say HP30s handle 35s and that a HP30 is the same strength as a LP44.

I blew up a HP30 4.88 gearset in two trail runs with stock shafts and x760s on 35s.

I'd put very little money in the LP44s and run them. A definite upgrade over a HP30.

x2

ITS ALL ABOUT THE WAY YOU DRIVE. be mindful and you can run a locked 30 on 35s; you can run locked 38.5s stickys on a built front 44 too. you can also break a built+locked 30 on 33s and built+locked 44 on 35s.
 
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