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a build to be

shawnhancel

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hubbard, OH
Hey NAXJA, I'm looking for some inputs. Ive been a member here for well over a year. And like others I'll start with the story. My VW was broke down (timing belt) and it was getting too cold to ride the CBR. So with about 2000 bucks on hand, I went on CL I found a jeep, green 95 Cherokee, out of N.C. drove it, loved it. Back window got stuck down and i got it for 1700 bucks with 145k on it. Its a jeep, it was stock so that had to go. I did a RC 3" AAL, looked nice, with 31 10.50 15 ATs on soft 8s. Then while I was in a Navy school in Great Lakes, I added Logan's Metal 4x4 Prerunner bumpers, which got me all saggy. Drove it like that for a long while. I'm currently deployed to the waters off Africa chasing pirates and I've been buying things, lot's of things... So this is where I am at now. I got ARB for the HP D30 from djrethoret, and a rear ARB from nightfoam. 4.56s from our friends at team willys, and the front rebuild kit from Frank Z. I am buying the Ruff stuff GM 1 ton steering today and the 29 spline axles from serious off road (4140 i believe.) I am going to do the Rock Krawler 3 link at 4.5"s full packs, now SC redneck has been telling me to do stiffeners first. When I do get this project rolling its liberty Brakes in the rear, Ford braking assembly under the hood. the Taurus fan for cooling, and OBA from where ever i find a good deal. I do need to get the R&P and rebuild kits in the rear, but I am having reservations because everybody loves there 4.88s and I rather buy the 4.88s now and resell the 4.56s. And I haven't read a bad word about the 5100 series Bilesteins, so those will be under there. Slip yoke and while I have the 231 out I'll probably do the 2 low conversion as well. Ill add short boomerangs and relocating brackets, and balancing spacers up front to stay level. Oh and of course a warn, i see they have a new model 8K should be enough. Im gonna go with KM2's, i think ill run 33X12.50X15s on the soft 8's cause the lockers, as recommended on the newbie page, but with upgraded shafts in the rear i may go to 35s, just to fill the wheel wells. except the D30. But If i can get some flares cheap ill do 35s, and lock only when necessary. And a Woody drive shaft. I know ill have to bump stop. But is there anything else missing. Am I missing anything? Something I can do to keep this ball rolling? I have exhausted myself reading other posts, about a year worth of research getting to this point. Thanks for any help. I can't post any pics, but here's the link to my FB. I'm doing everything but my own gears, I may be able to but I have no desire to trail and error on gears.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1253683832177.38951.1531991785

P.S. I get out the Navy this summer, the build will be happening in SW Pa, around Monongahela. Plenty of food and drink when I'm working on things...
 
oh yea, a durango steering box with brace.
 
Do a truss on the D30 and a hefty diff cover if the ARB didn't come with one. That'll help the front end live with 35s. Trim the fenders, limit straps, maybe truss the rear. The rear is an 8.25, right? If it's a D35, toss it and get something better.

PS: Thanks for serving, even as a squid...;) Get some pirates!

USMC 2000-2005
 
it is the 8.25 rear, and I have been looking for trusses. Any body have any in puts, who makes good ones, and who simply not to buy from, been looking though vendor forums, but I haven't found any there. Not good looking weld on applications.
 
T&T makes a real nice one. Real expensive though. I think RuffStuff makes a couple generic ones, their medium truss should work for the 8.25.
 
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