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What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

T-case support ring installed

Mounts for 4 point harness belts made and installed driver/passenger

Cowl air intake installed

Rear ori strut air cans mounted

Limit strap mounts welded in at 4 corners and rear center . The corner limits are for safety they catch just at the end of the strut stroke I don't like hanging 1000lbs off a $1000 strut . The centers are there because the drive shafts can't handle the full 18 of droop they fully bind at the cardan about the last Two inches...this is fixable by removing the shafts and doing a good grind job on the h-yoke but I was too lazy to remove them this weekend and will do it sometime ...maybe .

Needs...

I still need to do full cooling system flush it's pretty dirty...runs cool but it's ....brownish green.

Needs to change the oil it has been in there since I changed it before my last run in ...2017... it has 3 hours on it but is 2 years old . It is Mobil 1 synthetic and a Mobil 1 filter , so it's not dyno oil and a filter with paper inside ,but still ... lol... it's 2 years old .

After all this I still may not wheel labor day ,but it is ready ... I may wait until mid September and take a full week off and do weeks worth of wheeling to break it in.
 
trippled said:
I'm gonna have to grind my shafts too. Definitely will bind on the front. It will never be done tho so I haven't been too worried haha.
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Yeah if it wasn't such an f-ing pain reaching the yoke bolts at the case I would probably drop them and fix them right away but they are a pita. I found a pic of the Jeep as it was built in 2010 when I bought it ...lol... not much left besides the 60/14 .
 
After a successful weekend in Moab I’m finally going to take care of my cracked exhaust manifold and do some other little maintenance items. The XJ made it through the 104+ days but it wasn’t exactly happy with it. On the bright side, my hydraulic assist worked wonderfully when locked on the slick rock. Reman OE pump complained intermittently but I never lost steering power.

I also finally installed my billet compressor wheel in the old 7.3’s turbo. I had zero turbo surge towing over I-70. I had to drop out of OD and slow down to 55-60 on Floyd Hill, Vail Pass and some of the bigger hills to keep EGT’s happy but was able to maintain OD with the cruise for 5 over the majority of the trip getting 13.5mpg. I even paid the $11 to find out I was just over 15,000lbs total with passengers, luggage, Jeep, and trailer. Not bad for a nearly 20 year old truck with a drivetrain first released in 1995. I’m thinking of upgrading the Intercooler and charge pipes but not sure just how much that’ll really lower my EGT’s on the bigger hills. It’s a fairly expensive thing to do so I want to make sure it’ll be worthwhile. I also want to do an actual exhaust brake because using the stock EBPV just isn’t cutting it.
 
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DutchVDub said:
After a successful weekend in Moab I’m finally going to take care of my cracked exhaust manifold and do some other little maintenance items. The XJ made it through the 104+ days but it wasn’t exactly happy with it. On the bright side, my hydraulic assist worked wonderfully when locked on the slick rock. Reman OE pump complained intermittently but I never lost steering power.

I also finally installed my billet compressor wheel in the old 7.3’s turbo. I had zero turbo surge towing over I-70. I had to drop out of OD and slow down to 55-60 on Floyd Hill, Vail Pass and some of the bigger hills to keep EGT’s happy but was able to maintain OD with the cruise for 5 over the majority of the trip getting 13.5mpg. I even paid the $11 to find out I was just over 15,000lbs total with passengers, luggage, Jeep, and trailer. Not bad for a nearly 20 year old truck with a drivetrain first released in 1995. I’m thinking of upgrading the Intercooler and charge pipes but not sure just how much that’ll really lower my EGT’s on the bigger hills. It’s a fairly expensive thing to do so I want to make sure it’ll be worthwhile. I also want to do an actual exhaust brake because using the stock EBPV just isn’t cutting it.
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What numbers do you see EGT wise ? I run a pre turbo egt probe which is,said to be about 300° higher than post turbo and run 900-1200 on steep long grades at 65-75 If traffic permits and sometimes as hot as 1250-1450 which usually is during dpf regen ...I guess that's about 1000-1300 for the hotter egt if post turbo...l usually only worry about egt temps if running hotter settings than stock , which I don't run those towing in the mountains. I did run it hot yesterday after getting tired of being tail gated by a douche in a tundra towing a couple 4 seat razors while following a line of traffic on 285 , so when we got to Kenosha pass and the lanes opened up to Two lanes going up I put his was back like he was in park .
 
My probe is in the exhaust manifold, so yeah it should be reading the hottest possible temps. I run my truck in a 60hp tow tune. On the hills where I had to turn off OD and slow down it was to keep it under 1300*, if it was a really long hill I adjusted my throttle to keep it right at 1200* speeding back up or slowing down as needed. There were a few shorter hills where I would let it tap 1400* because by the time it got that hot I was over the hill and it would cool right back down. On flat ground it sits around 600-800* and on most of the little hills it would stay under 1200* or just a little into the 1200-1300* range.

I really don’t like it going much over 1200* but I know if it’s just for a few seconds it’s ok. Ideally I’d like to lose about 200*, I think that would let me hold OD and the speed limit or even 5 over for almost the entirety of I-70. Its only a 4 speed automatic so it’s a big jump from OD to 3rd.

On the other side my transmission got the hottest I’ve ever seen it while crawling along at 5-10mph the entire way up to the tunnel from Silverthorne. My gauge might have hit 190*, there is a tick mark between 180 and 210 that it only got about halfway to. That’s the hottest I’ve ever seen the transmission so I think I’m set there. The 6.0L trans cooler upgrade and deeper aluminum pan along with the t-stat bypass are working well. My trans normally sits in the 150-160* range.
 
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DutchVDub said:
My probe is in the exhaust manifold, so yeah it should be reading the hottest possible temps. I run my truck in a 60hp tow tune. On the hills where I had to turn off OD and slow down it was to keep it under 1300*, if it was a really long hill I adjusted my throttle to keep it right at 1200* speeding back up or slowing down as needed. There were a few shorter hills where I would let it tap 1400* because by the time it got that hot I was over the hill and it would cool right back down. On flat ground it sits around 600-800* and on most of the little hills it would stay under 1200* or just a little into the 1200-1300* range.

I really don’t like it going much over 1200* but I know if it’s just for a few seconds it’s ok. Ideally I’d like to lose about 200*, I think that would let me hold OD and the speed limit or even 5 over for almost the entirety of I-70. Its only a 4 speed automatic so it’s a big jump from OD to 3rd.

On the other side my transmission got the hottest I’ve ever seen it while crawling along at 5-10mph the entire way up to the tunnel from Silverthorne. My gauge might have hit 190*, there is a tick mark between 180 and 210 that it only got about halfway to. That’s the hottest I’ve ever seen the transmission so I think I’m set there. The 6.0L trans cooler upgrade and deeper aluminum pan along with the t-stat bypass are working well. My trans normally sits in the 150-160* range.
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My trans hates slow speed creeping the usual temps are 165-185 ... but if speeds are 15-30 I've seen 225 on my gauges. I'm thinking of a larger aftermarket cooler or a new torque converter as I think the converter is the heat source with excessive slip .
 
Low speed like that is way harder on the trans because the torque converter can’t lock up. I don’t think an aftermarket converter will change that. The cooler will keep the temps down though. And bypassing that stupid thermostat valve on the cooler lines.

That’s what I did on mine. It has a shift kit in the valve body, I bypassed the thermostat, put on a deeper aluminum pan, swapped the cooler out for one from a 6.0L (stock one was the size of a power steering cooler, the 6.0L one is huge), and added an external spin-on filter as the 4r100 just has the pickup screen/filter in the pan stock. Basically everything I could do to keep it running clean and cool without going custom build stuff. I’m not running gobs of extra power, doing sled pulls, or really towing that heavy so I don’t think I really need a built up hot rod transmission.
 
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Ordered up a 1.0 A/R turbine housing for my turbo, new updated up-pipes, an EBPV delete pedestal, and a Banks exhaust brake for the truck. Should make November’s trek to Moab that much more relaxed.

Jeep is getting some love too. New drivetrain mounts, new water pump, new radiator, high flow t-Stat housing, new t-stat, new exhaust manifold, a cat-back, and even an oil change. Probably throw new cap/rotor/plugs and a fuel filter at it.
 
DutchVDub said:
Haven’t you been saying that for a year now?
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Eh since like mid this year.

Between a newborn and having to get the DD XJ done...the buggy hit the definite back burner until about 4-6 months ago.

I'm at the point where I'm done with systems, just need to finish them off mostly.

Hydro...redone...just needs fully bled.
Fuel...redone.
Brakes...redone...just need filled and bled.
Cooling...waiting on another -16an fitting to land thursday and line separators...then all that's left is knocking out a shroud (already drawn up and ready to be cut out).
New driver side front floor...all in place just needs final welds and remounting the gas pedal.

Other than that it's really just bolting some sh*t back on. Mike's bachelor party is this weekend, otherwise I could likely take it for a spin this weekend (working late nights between now and then).
 
DutchVDub said:
Ordered up a 1.0 A/R turbine housing for my turbo, new updated up-pipes, an EBPV delete pedestal, and a Banks exhaust brake for the truck. Should make November’s trek to Moab that much more relaxed.

Jeep is getting some love too. New drivetrain mounts, new water pump, new radiator, high flow t-Stat housing, new t-stat, new exhaust manifold, a cat-back, and even an oil change. Probably throw new cap/rotor/plugs and a fuel filter at it.
Click to expand...

What up pipes did you go with? Man if yours have been leaking those make it drive like a new truck again.

In other news I tore the 4.7 down in the wj after having low oil pressure at idle. Found number 4 main bearing trashed, couple rod bearings after looked less than wonderful. Crank still good. Gonna polish it up, throw some bearings and gaskets at this damn thing and hopefully it'll run longer than a day.
 
trippled said:
What up pipes did you go with? Man if yours have been leaking those make it drive like a new truck again.

In other news I tore the 4.7 down in the wj after having low oil pressure at idle. Found number 4 main bearing trashed, couple rod bearings after looked less than wonderful. Crank still good. Gonna polish it up, throw some bearings and gaskets at this damn thing and hopefully it'll run longer than a day.
Click to expand...

I went with the Full Force Diesel ones. They’re still just basic bellowed pipes that don’t need the gaskets anymore like the ones straight from International. I don’t think mine are leaking but with me getting ready to pull the turbo I figure I might as well just do it and theoretically never have to worry about them.
 
qr0bzx0


Been meaning to do this for years.
 
Been working a jobsite in Blackhawk: 19 miles up, 19 miles down.

After diagnosing some electrical gremlins, and replacing a few more parts, I have headlights (and high beams), all the way up, and all the way down.

Life is good!
 
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