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Minimum cage for an XJ?

Phil

Phil

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
West Sacramento, CA
After having my front fenders off this weekend, and seeing cracks developing in the A-pillar, I'm back to thinking about a cage.

At the same time, I don't want too add too much weight to my junk.

So how much caging is necessary for a nearly full bodied rig?

How about for a chop top rig?

And what about the JV buggies that are becoming popular?

What is necessary to keep from dieing?
 
Phil said:
What is necessary to keep from dieing?
Click to expand...

focus on this.

just protect the driver/OBT...

after that, who cares? :D
 
I wont fill this up with a bunch of bad info. But it seems to me that a few well placed tubes go just as good as a bunch of ok placed tubes. As much as I dont like the looks of the "less is more" theory, it works. I would think doing something like Jes has is probably pretty good. You might get away with doing less even.

not sure what all I can add beyond that. except the fact that i like lots of tube.
 
Phil said:
After having my front fenders off this weekend, and seeing cracks developing in the A-pillar, I'm back to thinking about a cage.

What is necessary to keep from dieing?
Click to expand...


You.....or the rig?
 
Goatman said:
You.....or the rig?
Click to expand...

I am my primary concern. Of course, it would be nice if I could get a few more seasons out of this chassis.

I'm torn between just doing a 4-point roll bar (think CJ-7), and a 6-point cage plus some tie-in to the coil mounts or front bumper (think the front section of Goatman's yellow Jeep).
 
I got it all worked out for you Phil.

s01.jpg


I did it on 5 spot grid paper so you could scale it if you want.

You're welcome. :D

--ron
 
A well built cage is a good plan, but I would also recommend reinforcing the frame rails to eliminate body flex and give you a stronger base for your cage.

Just remember head clearance. I know most of the cages I've seen will help in a rollover, but might knock you out cold without even rolling over. Properly mounted 4 point harnesses and a quailty seat would be a good plan also.
 
I was going to try to use as little tube as possible on my cage to keep weight down also, but when i started looking at how much the tubing weighs i decided to go ahead and do a full cage. The tubing I used, 1.75" .120 wall, weighs about 2lbs per foot, so by using 120 feet, I only added about 250lbs to the jeep. This sounded like alot at first, but that is really only a little more than having one extra person in the jeep. I am very glad i went ahead and used alot of tubing in mine, because i know i would have doubted a lesser cage and I feel completely safe in mine. Here are some pictures of what I did with mine, before i painted it. http://cherokeechief.zoto.com/user/lightbox/CAT.0_YER.2006_MON.12_REC.1/average_rating-desc/0-30
 
85cherokeechief said:
The tubing I used, 1.75" .120 wall, weighs about 2lbs per foot, so by using 120 feet, I only added about 250lbs to the jeep. This sounded like alot at first, but that is really only a little more than having one extra person in the jeep.
Click to expand...
I need skinnier friends...
 
Phil said:
After having my front fenders off this weekend, and seeing cracks developing in the A-pillar, I'm back to thinking about a cage. At the same time, I don't want to add too much weight to my junk.

So how much caging is necessary for a nearly full bodied rig?

What is necessary to keep from dieing?
Click to expand...

On a full bodied rig, not much cage is necessary to make it safe. Really, in my opinion, a B pillar hoop that ties into the shoulder harness bolts will protect everyone in a pretty hard roll.....at least as far as the roof caving in around you. If all a person is concerned about is safety, to me that's enough. I've seen some intermal XJ cages that I think are less safe than having no cage at all because there is so much more probability of hitting heads against the cage in a violent roll over.

However, there are other issues in building a cage. If you're going to go through the trouble of building a cage, I can't see still totaling the rig after a good roll, so I think it makes sense to also protect the body. Same goes for adding rigidity. So, if you take this into consideration, the cage is less about passenger protection and more about adding good structure. To add rigidity that will make the rig last, you need added structure from the rear shackle hangers forward to the front bumper, or at least the top of the coil pockets.

I know I keep saying this, but here goes again. I think the best cage design for a full bodied XJ is to have a roof hoop above the roof with the B, C, and D pillar down bars going down through the roof to the floor. Run the A pillar down bars along the outside of the A pillars through the top of the fenders, attach to the cowl, and run down to the frame and/or rock rails. Run tube forward under the fenders to the bumper or to the coil pockets. Add a couple of additional tubes based on how much rigidity you're after, keeping head room clear. This basic design keeps the passengers safe, with no tubes around their heads, protects the roof from being damaged, and adds rigidity front to rear. I also think there should be something added along the frame rail between the front LCA frame mount and the front leaf spring hanger.
 
so phil, when do you want to start bending? :D
 
Goatman said:
I know I keep saying this, but here goes again. I think the best cage design for a full bodied XJ is to have a roof hoop above the roof with the B, C, and D pillar down bars going down through the roof to the floor. Run the A pillar down bars along the outside of the A pillars through the top of the fenders, attach to the cowl, and run down to the frame and/or rock rails. Run tube forward under the fenders to the bumper or to the coil pockets. Add a couple of additional tubes based on how much rigidity you're after, keeping head room clear. This basic design keeps the passengers safe, with no tubes around their heads, protects the roof from being damaged, and adds rigidity front to rear. I also think there should be something added along the frame rail between the front LCA frame mount and the front leaf spring hanger.
Click to expand...

Richard, what size tube fits under the fenders / did you use / is your favorite?

Did you use the same size tube for your front extensions as the rest of your cage?

Can you post the link to your fototime album again?

Is it ok to sackride a little?

XJ_ranger said:
so phil, when do you want to start bending? :D
Click to expand...

I was hoping I could just cut out notches and weld up the bend, or butt weld the different pieces together. :confused1


.
 
Phil said:
what size tube fits under the fenders / did you use / is your favorite?
Click to expand...

I know you are looking for what Goatman did, but I figure I will include my experience with tube under the fender for those searching through...

I ran 2" tube under my fenders from the front of the coil bucket back to the a-pillar area. I basically have mine at the upper fender crease area, three or so inches from the top, which is a little lower than where Goatman ran his.

floorcut.JPG


innerfender.JPG


I think there is room to run 2" further forward as well, but i doubt you would be able to come out at the upper header panel area like Goatman did.

At the a-pillar area, it would all depend on how your a-pillar bar runs as to whether you could make 2" work. Without doors, it was pretty easy for me - all I did was trim the lip off the back of the fender at the exit point. However, if you ran the a-pillar in in the area under the back of the fender, I think a 2" a-pillar would fit from that point down to at least that lower body line where I hacked my sides off.

In this picture, you can see where the tube is under the fender. That is pretty much as high as you can go with 2" and still get the fender to sit in it's natural position, but everything below is fair game until you get to that lower body line...

sidepainted.JPG


If you used 1.5", I don't think you would run into many clearance issues under the fender.

Travis
 
Phil said:
I was hoping I could just cut out notches and weld up the bend, or butt weld the different pieces together. :confused1
Click to expand...

Go square exo or go home.
May I suggest galvanized 1.5X1.5X.25" square poop pipe. I seen it on sale at the Home Depot.
 
Yup, and I hear that drinking lots of milk will help with the nausea caused by inhailing zinc-laden smoke from said gavanized poo pipe.......
 
Phil said:
Richard, what size tube fits under the fenders / did you use / is your favorite?

Did you use the same size tube for your front extensions as the rest of your cage?

Can you post the link to your fototime album again?

Is it ok to sackride a little?
Click to expand...


I used 1.5" under the fenders.

The whole cage is 1.5" other than the exterior C hoop, which is 1.75".

Sure. http://fototime.com/inv/63EFE0C914796A1

Definitely.


:D
 
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