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LA kit

4x4JeePmaNthINg

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
I've been searching kits for over a year never pulling the trigger on one. Recently there are two vendors with these options:

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-...s-xj-cherokee-4-link-long-travel-upgrade.html

They have another kit I know someone running it with good review. However this new kit would seem to make for longer arms, a little improved angle and I'm curious as to if a 4 link would hit the exhaust?

Option 2:


https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/xj-rock-link-front-long-arm-upgrade.html

Can either mount over ( not yet existing) frame stiffeners?

Option 3: buy someone's cross member and build the arms/links, however I don't think I want to cut any ice axle mounts so this isn't high on my list. welding a diff mount isn't something I trust my newb skills with yet.


Opinions and anything I shoukd consider are welcome, my uca body side are done for and a long arm should help the body not flex terribly.
 
Have you looked at the stinky fab offering? It's a little more money but I would think it's worth it

I've added it to a cart 3 times now and the shipping costs just piss me off and I never actually buy it

Ironman Fab got a helluva nice kit too -- just a lot more hardcore than I need -- the cost reflects that
 
Stinky fab or ironman foe sure
 
SFR makes killer stuff but 1100 is more than most, iron I think is the most lol.

It's interesting some of these kits are built to go in front of the stock cross member. Why sacrifice the geometry ?

Other idea I had were :

Dirt bound

Clayton

Cav fab




The rustys don't look like true JJ links. Iron I don't know anything about their link ends reliability. I don't want to break the bank, I'm just not wanting crap after recent Large expenses. Just a kit that I don't need to worry about while mountain goating around.
 
SFR makes killer stuff but 1100 is more than most, iron I think is the most lol.

It's interesting some of these kits are built to go in front of the stock cross member. Why sacrifice the geometry ?

Yes they cost more money but not all that much more -- once again I think its worth it

The thing I like about the stinky kit is the fact that it uses mounts other than the crossmember -- being I have a 2000 I don't want to interfere with that exhaust down pipe with the pre-cats -- the stinky mounts look like they will be far enough out to avoid this

Also the aluminum arms appeal to me -- keep the strength , save the weight

I'm in NJ -- shipping for that kit is $136 -- at least you are closer to CA -- your shipping should be easier
 
SFR makes killer stuff but 1100 is more than most, iron I think is the most lol.

It's interesting some of these kits are built to go in front of the stock cross member. Why sacrifice the geometry ?

Other idea I had were :

Dirt bound

Clayton

Cav fab




The rustys don't look like true JJ links. Iron I don't know anything about their link ends reliability. I don't want to break the bank, I'm just not wanting crap after recent Large expenses. Just a kit that I don't need to worry about while mountain goating around.

The IRO setup you linked is a 3-link, which SFR sells for $999. I like the aluminum links (less unsprung weight), but it's your money. Spend (or not in this case) as you please. :D
 
I'm planing on the Ironman4x4fab kit on my next build.
 
I have been running the iro rock link for 2 years now. Yes like most it works over stiffeners. The only complaint I have is due to being lifted 3.5 inches and running a small tire (31's) I had to run excessive caster (8°) for the upper link to clear the axle yoke at full bump...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
have you checked the Full-Traction 4LINK suspension system?
you can wrap it around your unibody put the frame stiffeners around the FT brackets, and the crossmember could be take it off without removing the LA
 
I haven't looked at any of the kits mentioned, but it was key to me that the crossmember had a removable center section. Something to keep in mind.
 
I'll sure you knew this but the iro center is removable.... I wouldn't personally have a la system without that feature.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Both kits have removable center section, so that's a plus.

I really wish they would get installed pics for the 4 link, I want to see where the exhaust ends up on the cross member. I've gotta replace that insulator and don't want to have to redo it for it not fitting.:looney:
 
What do you all think about the angle differences of kits the mount the arms from the cross member vs kits that mount in front of the cross plate?

Seems like lost real estate when trying to keep Arms as flat as possible.
 
What do you all think about the angle differences of kits the mount the arms from the cross member vs kits that mount in front of the cross plate?

Seems like lost real estate when trying to keep Arms as flat as possible.

I would think it really depends on your intended use — if you’re just looking to improve the stock configuration moderate off-road use then it shouldn’t matter

On the other hand — hardcore off-road use and maximum flex then I would say the longer the better

Are you thinking of 4 linking the rear too?
 
as a very loose rule of thumb, longer is better. but there is more to it...

as you go longer, you also need to inboard the chassis side mounts more to keep the tires off of the control arms. this inboarding really has no effect on geometry as you are not relying on the control arms to do locate the axle laterally, only fore/aft (assuming we arent talking triangulated).

as you go longer, material selection becomes important. i bent 2x.25 DOM with a 36" eye to eye measurement using heims. you can use this calculator to look at the safety factor for a defined material at a given length and load. https://www.roguefab.com/tube-calculator/

the one big advantage of the longest possible link is that it gives you the least amount of fore/aft movement of the axle during articulation. if you are only using a few inches of suspension travel (think on road use of the stock suspension), this fore/aft movement is negligible. start talking extreme articulation... and it becomes more pronounced.

which brings me to the last point... ideally you want the arm flat at the middle of your suspension travel. not ride height, but suspension travel. this give you the absolute least amount of fore/aft movement, for any given length. now, most cherokees end up with more droop than compression. but you arent going to (typically) fit a link that is lower on the frame side mount at ride height. so... MMMMYYYY recommendation is no more than 10 degrees from horizontal at ride height. this should give you a pretty good balance for on road use. and when you are into the range of the suspension travel that the link really starts pulling the tires rearward... you arent in an on road situation.
 
Iron Rock offroad forsure. I've have nothing but good things to say about the kit. My XJ has their 3 link kit. Its currently on 37's and tons (03 f350 dana60 up front). No issues at all so far. In fact I just picked up some 39.5 to throw on. I haven't had any problems with the links or joints now I am running a artec truss with a JJ up top. I do just grease them regularly. Clearance/Flex is awesome with this kit and i dont even run a big lift only 4.5". If you have any question about the kit just pm me. I'll be more then happy to answer anything you gotta ask.
 
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