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2000bluexj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Mass
I was over on pirate reading a thread of a buildup and found one where someone built a 3 link that had the upper arm attached to the lower arm on the drivers side. Much like a y link or radius set up. any problems with this? and to find optimum link length, can i still use the 3 link calc? link to pirate thread. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=505981
 
Last edited:
I run that exact setup.

My only issue was with using the one upper with a rubber bushing in the axle. It created a pretty bad passenger side braking pull. I ended up putting a 14mm x 2.375" ball rockkrawler diff mount in there to replace the bushing, and the issue is gone. Plus having the 14mm hardware in there makes me feel a little better about life.

Overall I am very happy with the setup.

tday11.jpg
 
WheelinJR said:
I run that exact setup.

My only issue was with using the one upper with a rubber bushing in the axle. It created a pretty bad passenger side braking pull. I ended up putting a 14mm x 2.375" ball rockkrawler diff mount in there to replace the bushing, and the issue is gone. Plus having the 14mm hardware in there makes me feel a little better about life.

Overall I am very happy with the setup.

tday11.jpg
Click to expand...
did you run it through the calc to find your specs? do you know what your pinion/ caster angle change is through out suspension travel?
 
2000bluexj said:
I was over on pirate reading a thread of a buildup and found one where someone built a 3 link that had the upper arm attached to the lower arm on the drivers side. Much like a y link or radius set up. any problems with this? and to find optimum link length, can i still use the 3 link calc? link to pirate thread. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=505981
Click to expand...

that's not a 3 link....it's still just a radius arm setup....only running 1 less upper for less binding
 
thanks for the calrification. what differences does this have over a 3 link? just weighing my options, i think this will be easier due to lack of space for my upper link...
 
2000bluexj said:
did you run it through the calc to find your specs? do you know what your pinion/ caster angle change is through out suspension travel?
Click to expand...

no and no...

it mounts to the crossmember, so the lower links are as long as they need to be to locate the axle under the Jeep at factory wheelbase length. The upper link isn't terribly important. In this situation, it's only function is to hold the angle.

Its set up around 5-6 degrees of caster at sitting on the ground at ride height. Can't do much else about that with a Y-Link.
 
WheelinJR said:
I run that exact setup.

My only issue was with using the one upper with a rubber bushing in the axle. It created a pretty bad passenger side braking pull. I ended up putting a 14mm x 2.375" ball rockkrawler diff mount in there to replace the bushing, and the issue is gone. Plus having the 14mm hardware in there makes me feel a little better about life.

Overall I am very happy with the setup.

tday11.jpg
Click to expand...

How much was that upper joint? I can't seem to find it on the intraweb.
 
Currie also has a joint for the uppers.
 
lowrange2 said:
Space savings, simplicity, material savings, and just plain ol' preference. IMO
Click to expand...
i knew it was probably a packaging thing b/c its hard to fit a true 3 link in there. i know crash did it and some others, but is there any handling differences of the 2? i was thinking there wouldnt be any pinion/caster change b/c the axle cant rotate? correct?
 
2000bluexj said:
i knew it was probably a packaging thing b/c its hard to fit a true 3 link in there. i know crash did it and some others, but is there any handling differences of the 2? i was thinking there wouldnt be any pinion/caster change b/c the axle cant rotate? correct?
Click to expand...

yeah thats the other thing is with a tru 3 link you get caster change with flex like the factory short arms. With a Y-link the axle won't rotate and the caster angle relative to the arms will stay the same but rotate around the arms mounting points.

I can't speak for handling differences as I don't have either set-up yet. I'm just weighing my options and planning to build the Y-link.
 
WheelinJR said:
Personally, I'd much rather have myself a nice full 4-link versus my one upper Y-Link.

But a Y-Link is cheap and simple and effective, so there it is.
Click to expand...

What's keeping you from spending another 75 bucks on the stuff for the other upper link? Unless you already chopped off the passenger side upper.
 
because he still wouldnt have a 4 link.
 
lowrange2 said:
What's keeping you from spending another 75 bucks on the stuff for the other upper link? Unless you already chopped off the passenger side upper.
Click to expand...
probably because it would be a radius arm, which by nature binds because the axle housing is not allowed to rotated as it would in a 4 link. the one upper reduces binding which gives more flex with out change in castor. i have also heard more unweighting on the front on steep climbs with one upper vs a true 3 link.
 
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