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What do you like for a rear drive shaft?

61scout80

NAXJA Forum User
I'm at the point that I need to have a rear shaft built, and drive shaft tech isn't my strong point. What do the go fast guys like to run out back? Is the stock front style double cardan shaft reliable? A direct swap of a stocker won't work, too short.

My drive train is a renix 4.0, ax15, np231 w/ AA sye and a 27 spline 8.25. The rear has deaver race packs with RE boomerang shackles.
 
double check your numbers, you may want to figure out a way to set your rear suspension at full bump to check your maximum compressed length, we just ordered a d/s for a non-sye'd 2wd mj off ride height numbers alone... and we got bad results.

that nice new $300 C/V driveshaft.... is now trash, along with the trans. the c/v yoke nibbled the trans' tailcone output seal to crap.
 
double check your numbers, you may want to figure out a way to set your rear suspension at full bump to check your maximum compressed length, we just ordered a d/s for a non-sye'd 2wd mj off ride height numbers alone... and we got bad results.

that nice new $300 C/V driveshaft.... is now trash, along with the trans. the c/v yoke nibbled the trans' tailcone output seal to crap.

You need to measure the distance between your pinion and your output shaft, both at bump and full droop. Give those numbers to a driveline shop and they'll make you what you need.


Ask me how I know...

IMG_1168.jpg




Only one way to do it right. Full bump and full droop. Let the shop figure out the rest.
 
Whats an easy way to get the rear to full bump in the driveway? Dont have enough people/weight to put in the back and springs too damn stiff to easily compress.

oopps...just thought about it and figured to remove the springs and jack up the rear diff till it hits the bump pads. Sorry Im medicated.
 
Whats an easy way to get the rear to full bump in the driveway? Dont have enough people/weight to put in the back and springs too damn stiff to easily compress.

oopps...just thought about it and figured to remove the springs and jack up the rear diff till it hits the bump pads. Sorry Im medicated.

Optimally you will want to remove all leafs but the main and cycle it that way and set the bumps up so that you only have a little bit of negative arch at full bump, unless you have already cycled it and set up the up travel where you want it, then your method would work.
 
yeah I dont know about that one..hahaha
 
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