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another "volts" thread - pictures - not too large i hope..

cygnus58

NAXJA Forum User
Location
pa/
I was curious as to the real status of my '88 battery and charging system.
The analog factory meter seemed off in the way the heater fan motor for instance, affected it. I got out the trusy old Simpson, and checked it out.
at rest after driving home from work, 12.85V - dash read 12.5
1st pic, 25mph, lights high, fan hi, 13.37V -dah read 13.0
2nd pic, 25mph, lights lo, fan lo, 13.48V - dash 13.25
3rd pic, idle, fan hi, 14.22V - dash 13.0
4th pic idle, fan lo, 14.33V - dash 13.5

So over the entire scenario, the digital meter reflected a change of 1.48V
and the analog dash meter, 1V
I assume it is some ground situtation and that the analog meter is lower impedance.
Also it shows me that with engine running, under these 4 conditions, the regulator is working at .86V variation.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc178/cygnus58/lightshifanhi.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc178/cygnus58/lightslofanlo.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc178/cygnus58/idlefanhi.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc178/cygnus58/idlefanlo.jpg
 
I've read somewhere on the net that the analog gauge just sucks. down right, it just doesn't work very well. one guy cut the wire on the back of the i/p and ran a wire direct to the power dist. block and it still wasn't correct. he also ran a dedicated ground. same thing.
 
codyj86 said:
I've read somewhere on the net that the analog gauge just sucks. down right, it just doesn't work very well. one guy cut the wire on the back of the i/p and ran a wire direct to the power dist. block and it still wasn't correct. he also ran a dedicated ground. same thing.

The meter is calibrated with a magnet which is held into the case with a spot of glue. With age and vibration the magnet can shift. Add to that the wiring issues, and you have a gauge that is basically only useful for keeping track of relative changes.

If the reading is far off, it is possible, if you're patient, to take the gauge out, take it apart, and, using a known source of voltage, recalibrate it. It will still suck, but not quite so obviously.
 
My voltage guage reads about the same......... tested it against my dvom.......The coolant guages are also not the most accurate...... they tend to read a little high..... I have tested against an infrared thermometer..... Fortunately the gas guage seems to work ok.....
 
yeah i had the guages with the dumb light that tells you when something is going bad. untill my alternator went out and i decided to upgrade and swap the guages out.
thats when i noticed this volt guage issue, so i tested everything over and over again and just finally came to the conclusion that this guage just plainly sucks and now confermed with all these posts ive been rading(im a new member)
 
Figure out where "good charge" is using a DMM, then mark the window over the voltmeter with a grease pencil at that spot.

The IP voltmeter is a notorious liar (especially on RENIX!) and is useful only for relative state of charge indication. Taking it as an absolute measurement is just plain silly anymore (and I know that several of us - notably Matthew Currie and myself - have covered this several times recently...)
 
i would say that for the size of the factory gauge, and how its marked... the fact that it was that close is pretty damn good.

the most it was off was what? 1.22? thats not bad at all considering the age, and all other factors.
 
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