TnT LA install help

I'm looking for help and/or suggestions with my TnT LA kit install.

I managed to get the crossmember installed with no real problems and then installed the coils and bumpstops while the axle was dropped out of the way. With some maneuvering I got both lower control arms in. I then had to really work to get in the passengers side upper control arm. I figured that after rotating the axle to allow it to fit in, the drivers side should go in somewhat easily... Not a chance.

I had followed the instructions and had both uppers set to 13" from center to center. After bolting in the passengers side it's sitting at about 13 1/8" center to center. With the drivers side mounted on the axle end, when I tried to mount the drivers side it's 3/4" off. The mounting holes for it are at about 13 7/8 from center to center. My lowers are at 31 3/4" on the driver's side and 32" on the passengers side. Currently there is no track bar, and the axle is sitting about 1/2" to 1". I measured from hub center to center and got 100" on the driver's side and 101 1/2" on the passengers side.

I know I need to adjust the lowers so that they are the same length and at the same time figure out if I want to push the axle forward a little bit. My issue is that drivers upper being 3/4" off. The instructions even say to double check and make sure that the two uppers are the same length, but right now it doesn't look even close to possible to get it to bolt in if I try to leave the other at 13 1/8". Anyone else have this problem? Is there something off somewhere I'm missing? And for the adjustment of the lowers, should I try to make them even to each other, or even with the rear axle?

TIA!

Yea, I can help a little. You have now completed the easiest part of the install.

First you need to back up a little. Is the belly pan installed pretty much in the center of the frame rails? If yes, then you need to measure the lowers to the same length and install, then the uppers to the same length and install. I know this sounds easy, but you will need to use a bar, or a buddy, to move things around a bit until you get things to sit right.

I had to turn my uppers in about 5 full turns from what the instructions said to get mine set-up right.

Once you finally get the uppers installed, then you start checking for the correct wheel base. readjust as needed. Check your caster, readjust as needed. I know it looks like things arent lining up right and your pinion angle looks all wrong, but dont worry. It really needs to be set up this way.

If you have any questions at all Bob is pretty good about helping you out the best he can over the phone and email. If Bob isnt avail. then Will is.

I can try to help you more with a little more info or give me a number and I'll give you a call.

Aaron

I'm not sure this will help - but when measuring for the lower control arm length, I measured in a diagonal, not parallel. What I'm saying is that I DIDN'T measure from driver's side front hub center to rear driver's side hub center. I measured from a point on the rear axle on the pass. side to a point on the front axle on the driver's side. This ensures that the front axle is square to the rear axle. The rear axle *should* be square to the frame (since there is no adjustment with the leaf springs since the mounts are set at the factory).

Also, if your track bar does not currently have your front axle centered under the vehicle, that will play a role in how the upper control arms engage their mounts. You cannot accurately center the axle until the full weight of the vehicle is resting on the suspension.

As of right now the new trac bar isn't installed, that's why the axle isn't centered. It's sitting about 3/4" towards the passengers side (visual estimate, could be more/less) Could the front axle not being centered put the drivers side upper that far off? I had thought that since the distance between the mounts on the lowers and the mounts on the axle were fixed distances, the only variable would be the length of the uppers. I had been thinking that once I rotated the axle to fit one of the uppers in it would also move the other side the same amount, lining it up the same?

As for the crossmember being centered, I'm not sure. My passenger's side frame rail was pretty beaten up, so none of the three bolts on that side were lined up as they should have been from the factory. Luckily, the TnT crossmember had large enough slots that I was still able to get the bolts on without any problems. While I was at it I also bolted some 3x3x3/16" angle down the frame rails all the way to the front leaf mounts. I'm not sure if this could also make a difference?

Like I mentioned, my lowers are 1/4" off from being the same length right now, so I need to pull at least one of them off. I'm not sure exactly where I should be lining up the front axle, though. Before this install I was sitting on a 3" lift with stock CA's and trac bar, so my wheelbase was way off and my front axle was sitting a good 1" or more towards the drivers side. Now I'm not sure where to set the wheels in the wheel wells to allow proper compression.

What other info would help? My rig's in a friends garage and I won't be back there till sometime tomorrow morning (need to cash a check so I can try to find an angle finder to set the axle, I'm not even quite sure what the angle finder I'm looking for should look like) I would have just emailed or called Bob, but seeing that I didn't start having issues with it till after his business hours I figured I wouldn't be able to get a hold of him. I may take you up on that offer to talk to you on the phone tomorrow once I'm back at the garage.

Thanks for all the help so far!

nhrocker said:

As of right now the new trac bar isn't installed, that's why the axle isn't centered. It's sitting about 3/4" towards the passengers side (visual estimate, could be more/less) Could the front axle not being centered put the drivers side upper that far off? I had thought that since the distance between the mounts on the lowers and the mounts on the axle were fixed distances, the only variable would be the length of the uppers. I had been thinking that once I rotated the axle to fit one of the uppers in it would also move the other side the same amount, lining it up the same?

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Absolutely! It would seem that the diff wouldn't need to be exactly centered but because the upper control arms run on a slight angle, the diff needs to be in one spot or you'll fight that upper control arm. Try sliding it over (along the floor) towards the driver's side. As you slide it, stop to try to drop the arm in. You'll find the sweet spot (though may still require a little elbow grease) and you'll be golden. Everything has its place because the arms are inside the unibody rails. Unfortunately it was the only way.

nhrocker said:

As for the crossmember being centered, I'm not sure. My passenger's side frame rail was pretty beaten up, so none of the three bolts on that side were lined up as they should have been from the factory. Luckily, the TnT crossmember had large enough slots that I was still able to get the bolts on without any problems. While I was at it I also bolted some 3x3x3/16" angle down the frame rails all the way to the front leaf mounts. I'm not sure if this could also make a difference?

Click to expand...

Don't worry so much about it being centered. What you want to focus on (regarding the install of the bellypan) is that the bolts are centered in the slots (for the front three on either side) and that the transfercase brace is all the way up against the driver's side unibody rail. Once these two things are accomplished, you just need to tighten everything up.

nhrocker said:

Like I mentioned, my lowers are 1/4" off from being the same length right now, so I need to pull at least one of them off. I'm not sure exactly where I should be lining up the front axle, though. Before this install I was sitting on a 3" lift with stock CA's and trac bar, so my wheelbase was way off and my front axle was sitting a good 1" or more towards the drivers side. Now I'm not sure where to set the wheels in the wheel wells to allow proper compression.

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I think the best bet is to worry about getting it together and worry about teaking it later. The tweak part of the install can be much faster if you have something to work with. Once you get the suspension in the first time you'll have no issue figuring out what's off and where (both visually and with a tape).

nhrocker said:

What other info would help? My rig's in a friends garage and I won't be back there till sometime tomorrow morning (need to cash a check so I can try to find an angle finder to set the axle, I'm not even quite sure what the angle finder I'm looking for should look like) I would have just emailed or called Bob, but seeing that I didn't start having issues with it till after his business hours I figured I wouldn't be able to get a hold of him. I may take you up on that offer to talk to you on the phone tomorrow once I'm back at the garage.

Click to expand...

I'll send you a PM with my cell number. I'll be on the road about 10am MDT and you're welcome to call me anypoint after that time for help with the install. Since the whole shop is going to EJS this year we'll be closed until a week from Monday so the cell is the best bet if you need help. Sounds like you're doing better than you may think...

Matt
T&T Customs.

:worship: :worship: :worship: I am not worthy! :worship:

I got back to work on it earlier and started moving the axle towards the drivers side like you said. I couldn't get it to move far enough, but by putting my bottle jack under the pass. side and lifting that while dropping the drivers, it took up that 3/4 in no time! I got the control arm end started and couldn't make it through the other side, so I took the axle end bolt out, moved the upper so the bolt could go all the way through, then put the axle end back in with no problems, lined right up!

Now I'm getting everything else possible bolted in so I can set it on the tires to see where it needs to be adjusted. There's only one place in town that can get me a magnetic angle finder to set the front axle, and they can't get one for me till Tuesday at the earliest, plus it's $50. I do have a torpedo level and a protractor already, so I'm going to attempt to do it using Gojeep's right up and hope for the best. I'll probably have plenty more questions later, but for now, THANK YOU!:kissyou: :cheers:

A few new questions now. I've got the LA kit and the track bar installed and it's sitting on it's tires (looks great already! especially with no jack stands! :laugh3 For reference, I just installed RE 5.5 Grand coils, which are sitting at about 6.75" of lift on the passengers side and 7.75" on the drivers (going by the flares). Right now the shocks are not installed, it's not aligned, the angle isn't set yet, and the sway bar is disconnected. Anyway, on with the questions:

1. How do you tighten the axle end trac bar bolt that came with the TnT HD trac bar? I managed to wedge a screwdriver against the underside of the nut and get it about half way on, then it started spinning and I can't get the screwdriver on it enough to hold the nylock nut. Would it be better for me to try to get it out and drill a new hole for the bolt where I can get a wrench on it or is there a way to finish tightening it?

2. Going from wheel center to wheel center I get a wheelbase of 101.5" on the passengers side (just about stock) and 100.75" on the drivers side. Going from the back of the passengers shock mount to the center pin on the drivers side leaf pack I have a measurement of 103", while between the drivers shock mount and the passengers center pin I get 102.5". I know I need to lengthen the drivers side to match the passengers to get it back to stock. Do most people just get it back to stock? I know that under compression the axle will move farther forward, I'm just wondering if this wheelbase works well for that.

3. How have other people taken care of the gas and brake lines? With the new bolts in the way, I can't get all the one way fasteners that held them before back in place. The ones that I can get in place leave the lines laying in direct contact with the bolts, which doesn't seem safe to me.

4. This one is completely opinion, but should I pull the arms out entirely once they're adjusted to paint them, or just paint them in place? I spent enough time getting them in there, I'm kind of dreading the thought of taking them back out (that and I'm short on time...I was only supposed to use my friends garage for one weekend :shhh: )