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86 Cherokee 2.8 to 4.3 swap Help

xjproject

NAXJA Forum User
Hello, I have noticed alot of information in this forum on this topic. I am very new to the cherokee family. I have a 86 cherokee with a 2.8 motor, ax-5 MTX, and NP-204 Transfer case. The motor has seen better days and is gutless with 31.5 swampers. I have tossed the idea around about the 3.1/3.4 but that has fizzed out. I am not at all intrested in the 3.1/3.4 due to the cost of aftermarket parts and availability. I am firm on putting in the 4.3 motor. I know that the bolt pattern is different and will have to change bellhousing, clutch, etc.. I have also been told that the drivetrain consisting of motor, MTX, and T-case from a 4.3 S-10 will bolt right in. What kind of feedback can you give me on this project? Can I use my exsisting driveline or should I swap the driveline as well? I don't want to do any major fabrication due to the lack of tools. Hope you all can help me out. Would like to complete this by July / August.
Thanks,
Robert
 
I'm interested in this too. I can pic up rusted out s-10blazers for cheap with good 4.3/trans/tcase. Swapping that in to the wife trail jeep would sure pep it up. Any stuctural problems that would get in the way? I'm sure the advanced adapter mtr mounts would work for the 4.3 and I could make my own trans/tcase mount...
 
xjproject:
Nope, the 4.3 isn't a "bolt in" swap - only the 3.4 comes close to being bolt in and the 3.1 motor won't work at all (usually a front drive engine with a wierd bolt pattern) as far as I know. Please understand that when you go with the 4.3 NONE of your existing drivetrain is compatible.

In a nutshell, to install the 4.3 you need the engine, trans and t-case from the donor vehicle and either the factory elect. harness with computer or just the computer and then get a new harness from Painless Wiring. Next, you'll have to get the XJ V6/V8 motor mounts from Advance Adapters. These motor mount brackets do bolt in, but require drilling. Welding is also an option. The 4.3 with the 700r4 or 5sp is a few inches longer than what you're taking out, so the trans crossmember needs to be moved back. This requires drilling or again, or making new brackets/crossmember. That'll get the new power plant mounted in place. Now you need to also get an XJ gas tank from a 90's XJ with the internal pump or buy an aftermarket electric pump. I prefer the tank with the internal - more reliable.

Cooling system is gonna need to be upgraded to a larger radiator and the 4.3 requires a return hose from the engine to the top of the radiator that you'll need to have a radiator shop add to the top tank. Also, the factory clutch fan won't clear. You'll have to get an electric fan wired to a temp sensor switch - don't go cheap on the fan - I learned that the hard way..... There are some factory fans in the salvage yards that you might be able to adapt as well, but don't use one from a 4cyl car - take one from a car that has a larger engine - it moves more air.

Another thing - the S-10 5 speed tranny's t-case lever and stick shift are a bit farther forward than the XJ's original so you'll have to cut the floorboard in two places and either modify the center console or ditch it altogether. The stick shift ends up being in a much more comfortable place with this mod, but the t-case shifter ends up tucked right under the dash pretty tight. Something else - depending upon how much lift you have, your driveshafts are gonna need attention. If you have probably 5" of lift or more, your front driveshaft will likely need to be replaced with a longer one since the t-case is a few inches farther back than the original. This then means that your rear driveshaft will then need to be a bit shorter so be sure to check the travel of the slip yoke - you don't want it to bottom out and trash your new t-case. This is a good time to install a Slip Yoke Eliminator and a new rear driveshaft.

After all that, you'll need to replace your exhaust system. The 2.8's catalytic converter isn't gonna cut it for the increased flow and heat and the exhaust bends aren't even close to try to use it until after the cat. You'll also need to have a bung welded in for the O2 sensor just after the exhaust manifold.

Once you've done those things and wired up the electrical, about the only other snag will be compatibility of the gauges or idiot lights. I tossed the factory setup and put in AutoMeter gauges and speedo - worked great.

As far as clearance issues go, all I had to do was hammer a dimple into the pass. side of the unibody behind the new motormount to clear the 4.3's exhaust manifold flange, and dimple up the floorboard above the t-case a bit because it's a tight fit. A t-case drop kit is an option, but you lose that much ground clearance.

My first XJ was an '84 with the 2.8. If I had to do it all over again, I would in a heartbeat! I like the fact that the S-10 4.3/5sp has a much heavier flywheel which makes crawling so much smoother than with the XJ 4.0. If my current rig ('93) didn't already have a decent engine, I'd do this swap again.

Hope this helps!
 
YELLAHEEP said:
xjproject:
Now you need to also get an XJ gas tank from a 90's XJ with the internal pump or buy an aftermarket electric pump. I prefer the tank with the internal - more reliable.

Hope this helps!

Not necesseraly. The internal pump from the 90's xj will slide right in his tank. The only problem will be wireing it. I chose to swap in a 94 harness.
 
YELLAHEEP said:
xjproject:
Nope, the 4.3 isn't a "bolt in" swap - only the 3.4 comes close to being bolt in and the 3.1 motor won't work at all (usually a front drive engine with a wierd bolt pattern) as far as I know. Please understand that when you go with the 4.3 NONE of your existing drivetrain is compatible.

In a nutshell, to install the 4.3 you need the engine, trans and t-case from the donor vehicle and either the factory elect. harness with computer or just the computer and then get a new harness from Painless Wiring. Next, you'll have to get the XJ V6/V8 motor mounts from Advance Adapters. These motor mount brackets do bolt in, but require drilling. Welding is also an option. The 4.3 with the 700r4 or 5sp is a few inches longer than what you're taking out, so the trans crossmember needs to be moved back. This requires drilling or again, or making new brackets/crossmember. That'll get the new power plant mounted in place. Now you need to also get an XJ gas tank from a 90's XJ with the internal pump or buy an aftermarket electric pump. I prefer the tank with the internal - more reliable.

Cooling system is gonna need to be upgraded to a larger radiator and the 4.3 requires a return hose from the engine to the top of the radiator that you'll need to have a radiator shop add to the top tank. Also, the factory clutch fan won't clear. You'll have to get an electric fan wired to a temp sensor switch - don't go cheap on the fan - I learned that the hard way..... There are some factory fans in the salvage yards that you might be able to adapt as well, but don't use one from a 4cyl car - take one from a car that has a larger engine - it moves more air.

Another thing - the S-10 5 speed tranny's t-case lever and stick shift are a bit farther forward than the XJ's original so you'll have to cut the floorboard in two places and either modify the center console or ditch it altogether. The stick shift ends up being in a much more comfortable place with this mod, but the t-case shifter ends up tucked right under the dash pretty tight. Something else - depending upon how much lift you have, your driveshafts are gonna need attention. If you have probably 5" of lift or more, your front driveshaft will likely need to be replaced with a longer one since the t-case is a few inches farther back than the original. This then means that your rear driveshaft will then need to be a bit shorter so be sure to check the travel of the slip yoke - you don't want it to bottom out and trash your new t-case. This is a good time to install a Slip Yoke Eliminator and a new rear driveshaft.

After all that, you'll need to replace your exhaust system. The 2.8's catalytic converter isn't gonna cut it for the increased flow and heat and the exhaust bends aren't even close to try to use it until after the cat. You'll also need to have a bung welded in for the O2 sensor just after the exhaust manifold.

Once you've done those things and wired up the electrical, about the only other snag will be compatibility of the gauges or idiot lights. I tossed the factory setup and put in AutoMeter gauges and speedo - worked great.

As far as clearance issues go, all I had to do was hammer a dimple into the pass. side of the unibody behind the new motormount to clear the 4.3's exhaust manifold flange, and dimple up the floorboard above the t-case a bit because it's a tight fit. A t-case drop kit is an option, but you lose that much ground clearance.

My first XJ was an '84 with the 2.8. If I had to do it all over again, I would in a heartbeat! I like the fact that the S-10 4.3/5sp has a much heavier flywheel which makes crawling so much smoother than with the XJ 4.0. If my current rig ('93) didn't already have a decent engine, I'd do this swap again.

Hope this helps!
Great information that will definantly get me going in the right direction. I don't thing I will need the wiring harness since I the 4.3 is going to be set up with a Edelbrock Performer Intake, a 600 CFM Holley Carb and a electric fuel pump. Im not trying to be cheap but only have a limited budget. The mods that you mentioned seem fairly painless with the use of a body saw and a big hammer. Would you recommend having custom driveshafts made or just take the ones I have to a shop and have them legthened or shortend?
Thanks again,
Robert
 
Everything Yella said is correct. I'm in the midst of swapping a 2003 Blazer drivetrain into my 86 project. 4.3Vortech, 4l60e, current np233 case (not sure if I'm keeping that). Wiring is going to be your biggest enemy.
Dion
 
xjproject - I would avoid the 600 cfm Holley. It's too much carb for the motor. I have the same intake/carb size (I'm running an Edelbrock) setup on the 4.3L in my MJ and low-end and part-throttle response is pretty bad. Plus, most Holley carbs will not clear the distributor on a 4.3 unless you're using a small diameter distrib. cap (speaking from experience). With the headers you'll probably use and the intake, 500 cfm should be plenty. I did have a Holley 450, which seemed like a good size but had the aforementioned clearance problem and I couldn't get the thing tuned quite right. Hope this helps.

Brent
 
Thanks Brent- Great Feedback, I planned on using the GM HEI which is fairly broad in diameter. Taking the clearance problem into account I will change my plan to the 2bbl intake with a holley 500 2bbl. I will check with Holley and get dimensions first before I buy.
Thanks again,
Robert
 
Blatant said:
Everything Yella said is correct. I'm in the midst of swapping a 2003 Blazer drivetrain into my 86 project. 4.3Vortech, 4l60e, current np233 case (not sure if I'm keeping that). Wiring is going to be your biggest enemy.
Dion
How is the drivetrain fitting? Is you GM parts bolting right up or are you having to relocate? My biggest fear is having to do a crap load of fabbing with no welder and only a air body saw...
Thanks,
Robert
 
I have a 95' Chevy s-10 Blazer motor and 4l60e tranny in my 94' wrangler and am trying real hard to smog it here in California. I bought it in Michigan from a guy that did the whole swap when I lived in Chicago. It is a powerhouse of a motor and with my 4.88 gears, headers, Crane Cam, and fuel injection, the jeep is extremely quick. The thing has alot of low end torque when the cam kicks in from 1000 rpms or so. I would suggest if at all possible getting a 96'+ engine because all these motors are universal and have the better fuel injection (multi-port) and it's alot easier to find parts for them. I have the 93-95 CPI injection in my jeep and it has been hard trying to get the entire airbox, canister, etc that I need to smog it here in California. The smog ref has given me alot of stuff to get done. I have done what I could, but I hope the Grady's off-road close to my house in Rancho Cordova, CA can help me tie up the loose ends and I can get my jeep smogged and then be able to sell it. My engine has "vortec" written on it on top of the intake. This is a real good, small, compact engine, that really can crank out some power. It is no wonder that so many ultimate buildups are using this motor instead of a chevy 350 or ford 302. I also like the HO 4.0L in my 91' xj, but it is really long and heavy, etc compared to the small v-6 4.3L chevy motor.
 
Attached is a link to a 98' 4.3L motor with the 4l60e tranny and all accessories, etc for sale with very low miles in Florida. It is on ebay and has no reserve, it's at $999 currently:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2478983438&category=33615

There is 1 other guy on ebay that sells alot of engines/tranny combos with all accessories out of Orlando I believe. I just bought some airbox stuff from him. Check on ebay under "Chevy Vortec" or so and you should be able to find him. I don't anything from him now though.
 
Don't have much to add here really since you are set on not using the 3.4. But I'll throw in my little testimonial here anyways..... :wave: ..... The 3.4 out of a 93-95 Camaro/Firebird is IMO the only way to go, enough teenagers have wrecked them over the years that there is a decent supply of them in the junkyards with decent lower mileage engines in them. Mine with the factory 4.10 gearing and 31's winds up quick enough that it keeps me pretty busy shifting gears, it really winds up to redline quick. IMHO I've never driven a 4.0 that has quite the omph that the 3.4 in mine has.
That all said the 4.3 really is a kick as engine, and puts out gobs of power but, in all actuality I really don't think the AX5 & 207 will live for long behind a 4.3, they really are pretty much just strong enough for the 2.5 and 2.8 and are just marginal at best for the 3.4. So IMHO the complete DT swap would be the best way to go if you go the 4.3 route.
HTH,
Mike B.
 
Has anyone tried a V8 swap besides me? I found out that the 4.5 and 4.9 cadillac motors have a 60% bolt patern and gives you more than enough power. I did the swap last winter and had lots of fun with the efi V8 in my 85 XJ.
 
dakotaxj said:
Has anyone tried a V8 swap besides me? I found out that the 4.5 and 4.9 cadillac motors have a 60% bolt patern and gives you more than enough power. I did the swap last winter and had lots of fun with the efi V8 in my 85 XJ.
A Caddy in an XJ!!! Cool! Got pics?
 
Got any numbers? HP/TQ? Is there any aftermarket suport to build the motor at all? Would I bolt up to the 700 (I think that is the chevy tranny) that was used in limited numbers in the xj?
 
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