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The Plumbus

Check your transmission mount. It could be causing the "grinding" noise. Typically at light decel and acel. Once you lift, a bad mount will transfer vibrations that weren't there before.
 
Check your transmission mount. It could be causing the "grinding" noise. Typically at light decel and acel. Once you lift, a bad mount will transfer vibrations that weren't there before.

I replaced the transmission mount when I did the motor mounts. I've read that the mount I got (Anchor) is known to be a POS
My exhaust pipe is hitting the new crossmember but the sound I'm hearing is 100% a driveline noise and I can distinguish it from the exhaust tapping on the crossmember
 
The Jeep has been undergoing phase 2 of the build. It began with pulling the engine after overheating it and developing some serious valve train noise. With the engine out I installed an auxillary relay box near the brake booster. The relay box powers my high/low beams, auxillary lights, extended idle, reverse lights, and spot lights (when i get them).
I shaved the 8.25 flush with a riddler cover
Sanded and painted the roof and top of the hatch gloss black
Swapped the heater core
And installed a set of hdoffroad no lift shackle relocation brackets with jks boomerang shape shackles
And I just got the call from the shop that the engine is ready to pick up!
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Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
Well, what a small world - I bought one of those relay boxes too, been sitting on my workbench for over a year waiting for me to make the time to wire it up (I got inspired by https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/).

I've been trying to figure out where to stick it in my '92 (I put my vacuum reservoir by the master cylinder when I went to an aftermarket bumper, so that spot's out for me), was leaning toward in front of the emissions canister by the trans dipstick. Looks like you ran individual wires from the fuses to the battery? How'd you route them - up to the firewall, or along the radiator?
 
Did the dash have to come out for the heater core replacement? Looks like a job!
Yes it did. It was much easier to get to the hvac box bolts that go through the firewall with the enine out of the vehicle. This project has turned out to be a 'while you're in there' process. Stay tuned

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
Well, what a small world - I bought one of those relay boxes too, been sitting on my workbench for over a year waiting for me to make the time to wire it up

I’ve had the exact same relay box sitting in my Amazon “shopping cart” for a month, but I haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I need to yank the abs module out of my ‘99 to make room for it.
 
I noticed the passenger side rear is leaning a bit, and chalked it up to spare tire weight. However I happened to notice this when greasing my lca joints - fixed end leaf spring eye is offset inboard. It appears to be distorting the shackle bracket outboard a hair as a result of levering the spring. Leaves are OME CS033rb with Moog SB371/372 bushings that were pressed in.
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Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
You've got a couple options that I use, Loctite or tack weld. You might also look at the eye's, if they are opening up you can tack weld them too.
 
Went to Uwharrie last week. Had too much fun to get any real action shots, but it did great. I can feel the jeep wanting to climb straight up ledges a whole lot more than my previous short arm jeep did.
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The Jeep has a rebuilt 4.0, .040 over
APN header into high flow cat, and flowmaster 40 series. All mandrel bent tubing.
CSF 2 row rad
New A/C system
New PS pump, reman gearbox, and Cavfab heim joint steering

Managed to bend up my drivers side rocker pretty good coming off a rock, almost into the door..stock rockers might as well be tin foil
I think I'm going to weld on U-shaped tube to my crossmember with plate inside the U's to cover the t-case and trans, or at least the majority of the trans.
Gas tank skid. Seen a few for sale used semi-locally

And here's my plan for rockers:
Cut out the stock rockers. Use steel angle with slots cut into the corner to stitch into the body. Weld in 2x6 3/8" wall to the channel as well as the cut edge of the door sill. Then put on some tube that kicks out in the front and rear with a few braces back to the rocker to keep me pushed off of stuff. As much as I'd like to just replace the rockers and be done with it, I know I ought to tie them in to the frame rails. I could drill and tap some brackets into the frame since I wasn't wanting to do frame stiffners quite yet but I can see those getting ripped off. Man...Jeep projects really seem to get out of hand :gee:
 
Well, what a small world - I bought one of those relay boxes too, been sitting on my workbench for over a year waiting for me to make the time to wire it up (I got inspired by https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-build-and-install-a-bussmann-rtmr-fuse-relay-block.399454/).

I've been trying to figure out where to stick it in my '92 (I put my vacuum reservoir by the master cylinder when I went to an aftermarket bumper, so that spot's out for me), was leaning toward in front of the emissions canister by the trans dipstick. Looks like you ran individual wires from the fuses to the battery? How'd you route them - up to the firewall, or along the radiator?

Whoops I somehow missed this comment. I ran a heavier gauge wire from the battery, along the firewall and to a fused two post. The individual wires to the fuses come off of that with ring terminals. Removal of the ABS module cleared up plenty of space. Even more if you have a cowl intake. Another good idea is using the stock airbox as a fusebox after installing a cowl intake



Finally installed the Transgo Shift kit and plumbed in the trans. temp sensor yesterday. It feels so much quicker now I'd recommend it to anyone. I left out the 1st gear hold modification so I will still be able to shift down into second. Went with "truck" for the 1-2 shift, and "hot rod" for the 2-3 shift. My 3-4 shift was already at .055" and TC L/U at .062". If I were to do it again I would drill those two out to "hot rod" size. My fear of veering away from the instructions kept me from doing that.
 
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