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Help me my Obi Wan Kenobi's

Xjin85

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MA
Ok Gang,
I posted this on the other forum but I've always been under the impression that NAZJA is where the EXPERTS, Pro's, and O.G's go to share their great knowledge. I have learned an immense amount of information on here this past several months from amazing posts from back in the day. I posted a couple threads recently and really didn't get much help from active member. I have put alot of thought, time, and money into this and it's all because of what I have learned on this forum. I promise you though went my build thread is finished it will be the holy grail of threads. :laugh:

I have so mch more planned for her this spring in summer (supercharger)

I am in no way one of those experts but i could use your expertise more than ever and could use as much help from members on here as possible.

In 2 days I start my “Frankenstein” build thread for my 2001 xj and I could really use everyones help!
I am replacing both the entire front and rear suspension, lifting it 4.5” inches, replacing all the bushing, and bolts, along with a new exhaust system.
I want this thing To ride and handle nice and smooth and drive like new. Below is a list of all components I have already ordered and just want to run it by you guys to make sure I didn’t forget or miss anything.

IF ANY OF THE SPONSORS ON HERE WANT TO HELP ME OUT I'D GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!
Here we go....

FRONT SUSPENSION
  • 3” Front Coil Springs
(Zone Off-Road)
-they are owned by BDS so I’m assuming they will be of the same or similar quality

  • Adjustable Lower Control Arms
*Need advice for a good quality and affordable ones! I bought RC fixed lower control arms but think I may return them bc I’m worried they won’t work or adjust properly.
  • Double Shear Adj. Trackbar- IRO
  • Control Arm drop Re-location Brackets
- Some weird cheap brand Prices for these range between $75-$200. Would these do the trick or should I find better quality?
  • 1” Front Spacers
  • Front shocks-Blisten
5100’s part #24-188197...10” Should be good for front shocks on a 4.5” lift, no?
  • Shock Isolators
  • x2
  • Front shock Bar-pin Eliminators
x2

Shock Tower Grommets x8
  • 5” Inch Extended Bump Stops
x2
- Daystar What would be the “approximate” appropriate bump stop length for this 4.5” inch lift + 10” inch shocks + 33” tires? Would the control arm drop relocation brackets affect bump stop length?
  • Steering Stabilizer- Rubicon
  • Pitman Arm-to correct bump steer/wobble/alignment

REAR SUSPENSION
3” Inch Rear Leaf Springs Zone Off-Road
Leaf Spring and Shackle Replacement Bolts kit I ordered a set from Team Cherokee but may go in another direction bc I’ve read several people having issues with them fitting and seating properly. Does anybody know why?

  • Rear Leaf Springs Bushings Kit
Zone Off-Road
U-Bolts-for Dana 35
1-1.5” Inch Shackle Relocation Brackets Using existing OEM stock shackles
Rear ShocksBlisten 5100 part #33-066868
Rear Shock tower Grommets x8
4” inch Rear Bump Stops x2
Front and Rear Extended Break Lines


EXHAUST Replacing everything from the front pipe to the tailpipe. Will be having them welded.
Front-pipe BRExhuast Mandrel Bent Front Pipe #102-8920 @ auto Zone. *Not sure what flanges and gaskets to get for this front-pipe
Catalytic Converter for 3rd rear car under unibody (No O2 sensor) bc my rusted and broke off from front pipe.

Magna Flow Universal OEM Grade Federal / EPA Compliant (no 02 senor bc its the rear cat on CA emissions 01 xj Part #51205
Check this one out bc its confusing. Bought it on Amazon.
02 Senor (downstream pre-cat) NGK # 23099 (same as NTK) throwing a p.0158 code “Bank 2, Sensor 2”. Looked under the good and the sensor is completely missing. Need to replace.
Front exhaust Studs Pretty sure these are the studs I need to attach the front pipe to the manifold
Tailpipe and Muffler-Flowmaster Super 44 with Mandrel Bent tail-pipe Both 2.5” O.D
2.5” Extension Pipe Walker Part #52356 This is for the +/- 8” gap between the cat and the muffler to make the tailpipe even and flush with the rear bumper. Otherwise, it would be about 8” too short. Worried about this rusting too fast. Is there a better-quality steel extension pipe I can use?

*Still looking for an exhaust tip. Was going to open it up with a 3” tip but worried about clearance issues.

UNDER THE HOOD
  • Fuel Rail
  • 12 Hole Fuel Injectors
  • New Gas Cap vapor leak code
  • Spark Plugs: NKG spark plugs spaced out to spec


TIRES AND WHEELS
33x12.50x15 (what’s the other sizes that are comparable?)
***TBD****

That should bring me to 4” in the front and 4.5” inches in the rear.

what do you guys think? Am I missing anything?

I didn't buy transfer case drop or SYE yet bc I wasn't sure if I'd even need it when considering that I will be installing re-location brackets for both the front (control arm drop bracket) and rear (Shackle Relocation Bracket) for a to get a better angle.
Also, I didn't get a
 
With the drop bracket, your Lower Control arm should be less. So, the 4 in RC lower control arms should be to long. I'd wait for someone who has done Drop Brackets. I'd still with CORE upper control arms. Good quality and price.
Also, remember that with Bar Pin Eliminators, you will gain or subtract an 1" from your shock length requirement.
Also, don't forget the steel steering box spacer as others have recommended in other threads.
A ZJ pitman arm is 1.5" deeper than an XJ's.
 
Seems suspect of naxj spam drumming up views and money for its owners.

But ill bite.

Run stock control arms like mentioned above till you figure out if different than stock arms are needed.

I stopped reading at control arm drop brackets since your building the perfect rcp naxj rig that might ride well ounce done.

Wether it steers drives well is up to personal opinion

You might look at kyb monomax shocks i think theyl outperform the 5100s though with drop brackets 5100 will work we'll.
Might go 5125 in heavier valving with drop bracketes but i have no idea if available in the length you need.

I never found the want or need to build my xj page for page from the naxj gods ramblings. However i have taken bits and pieces from rcp and many others past and current members and done it my way.

There is so much info hear its hard to sometimes find the good stuff but its there along with current valuable members to to help us weed through the bucket of muck that is naxj

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
With the drop bracket, your Lower Control arm should be less. So, the 4 in RC lower control arms should be to long. I'd wait for someone who has done Drop Brackets. I'd still with CORE upper control arms. Good quality and price.

Yes, I read that the stock lower control arms work best on a 4.5 lift with CA drop relocation brackets. My problem with that is that the stock LCA are flimsy. Is there anywhere I can buy aftermarket control arms that are the same length but beefier?

Also, remember that with Bar Pin Eliminators, you will gain or subtract 1" from your shock length requirement.
So what should I do to remedy this? I already bought the Blisten 5100's


Also, don't forget the steel steering box spacer as others have recommended in other threads.
A ZJ pitman arm is 1.5" deeper than an XJ's.

I was going to go that route but wanted to wait to see if I actually feel any vibrations. I would rather get an SYE if that were the case.

In regard to the pitman arm. Woulf the sock suffice? What length pitman arm would be best for my set-up?

Seems suspect of naxj spam drumming up views and money for its owners.

But ill bite.

Not sure what you mean by that but I assure you sir I am not a spammer just another guy on here trying to figure out how to fix and work on his Jeep.

Run stock control arms like mentioned above till you figure out if different than stock arms are needed.

Will do! Thanks for the advice. Are there any aftermarket CA that are the same length ad stock but "beefier"? I think RE sells some. Problem is with all the aftermarket LCA I have found they are tubular shaped as apposed to the XJ stock LCA that are "squareish".

I stopped reading at control arm drop brackets since your building the perfect rcp naxj rig that might ride well ounce done.

Sorry for my ignorance but what are "RCP NAXJA rigs'?

You might look at kyb monomax shocks i think theyl outperform the 5100s though with drop brackets 5100 will work we'll.
Might go 5125 in heavier valving with drop bracketes but i have no idea if available in the length you need.

Unfortunately, I already ordered the shocks and have them along with everything else I listed. Would 10" inch shocks suffice with the BPE's? How will the BPE's effect this?

I never found the want or need to build my xj page for page from the naxj gods ramblings. However i have taken bits and pieces from rcp and many others past and current members and done it my way.

Couldn't agree with you more. I have read hundred and hundreds of threads trying to fing bits and peices of information to try and figure

There is so much info hear its hard to sometimes find the good stuff but its there along with current valuable members to to help us weed through the bucket of muck that is naxj [/QUOTE]
couldn't agree with you more bud. Thanks for saying that. I have read through hundreds and hundreds of threads trying to peice together and find information relevant to my project. It's been very difficult for me. Everything I know and have learned has come from searching through NAXJA threads. Most posts are filled with fluff and people always go off the narrative than the content and subject matter completely change to something entirely different. Every Naxja member seems to have ADD like me lol. In regard to that, It seems like forum members were more active here in the past than they are now. I thought I would be getting more help and support here.

I appreciate everyone who is and will be contributing to helping me with my Build . Once I finish I will be making one hell of detailed a build thread in hope it will help anyone in the future who plans on doing the same thing. Gotta give back to the XJ community for what I've learned otherwise its just stealing.
 
Control Arm drop Re-location Brackets: Whatever brand meets your needs, but be sure to buy extension brackets that run to the transmission cross member. I have 5.5" of lift with Rubicon Express Control Arm drop brackets and extensions. Rocky Road Outfitters and Rough Country used to make both, and might still. I used the control arms from my 3.5" lift and they fit perfectly. You should have at least one set of control arms be adjustable.

You will need an SYE.

You will not need a drop pitman arm.

Round tube control arms are better.


There is tons of good XJ lift info here >> https://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html >> read it.




.
 
Last edited:
Will do! Thanks for the advice. Are there any aftermarket CA that are the same length ad stock but "beefier"? I think RE sells some. Problem is with all the aftermarket LCA I have found they are tubular shaped as apposed to the XJ stock LCA that are "squareish".

Not sure why you want square control arms. Round tube is stronger than rectangular tube with the same wall thickness.
 
I think ruff stuff offers adjustable controls that are stock longer lengths.
Rcp is one the great guy's spending time shareing what hes learned. Anak is another theres a few guys hanging out on the stock page that are badass to. Actualy lots of great guys here.

As far as what to do with your shocks if they dont work. Ive done stuff twice 3 times cussed alot.
5100s are cheap scrap them and get shocks that work.

On a build like yours shocks are last purchases. On a 12-14" coilover build they are first

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
 
Add to the "no" list that stock shackles just won't cut it. The relocation brackets are something to think about later once you get the lift installed.
 
In the evolutionary build of my XJ - I once had the 3" Zone off road lift on it as well. I quickly found that both the ride and off road performance were not what I wanted. - especially when it came to still having short arms. I know you are going with control arm drop brackets to help with control arm geometry post lift, but I truly believe that the ride quality and of course off road performance is just so much better with long arms. If you look at the arm length of the more modern JK and JL's they are substantially longer than our setups. Though an initial up front expenditure, a 4 link mid arm kit like the Stinky Fab Racing one https://www.stinkyfab.com/ would be a great long term investment, for any lifted rig. They also sell shackle relocation brackets as well as shackles. I am running their shackle with my Deaver leafs - and it is a great setup. I know not the cheapest route, but a great setup - that is awesome on road and off road. Just my $.02.
 
Control Arm drop Re-location Brackets: Whatever brand meets your needs, but be sure to buy extension brackets that run to the transmission cross member. I have 5.5" of lift with Rubicon Express Control Arm drop brackets and extensions. Rocky Road Outfitters and Rough Country used to make both, and might still. I used the control arms from my 3.5" lift and they fit perfectly. You should have at least one set of control arms be adjustable.

You will need an SYE.

You will not need a drop pitman arm.

Round tube control arms are better.

That runs right into my few next question:

I was planning on using the stock shackles on the rear relocation brackets. Would it be better if I buy new brackets? I've read depending on which shackels you use will determine how much additional you will get. I want to keep my rear @4" inches. The relocation bracket I bought from K suspension says it will "give up to 1"-1.5" inches of lift depending on the shackle used".

So what shackles would I get that have the least amount of lift possible so I can be as close to 4" as possible. So all I need is an additional 1" from the relocation brackets ontop of the 3" leafs to get at 4

Should I get Adj. Upper CA's or adj. lowers?


THAT'S WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT! Great Stuff Guys! Thanks for contributing That was already a HUGE HELP. You don't know it yet but you just won free pizza for life!

Please keep it coming. I'm looking into Stinkfab's 4-link mid-arm kit now. If I get this would I no longer need a CA drop relocation Bracket? I wonder If I could get either a Mid or Long arm kit used?

As for the BPE's how will they affect my shocks and suspension as a whole? Everyone says you break the bolts when changing your shocks and coils. Since the BPE's were so cheap I bought them to remedy that problem, So whe the bolts break I will just slap on these suckers. Plus it will let me use a wide variety of shocks

I am concerned that the Blisten 5100's wont work with the new set-up.



I think ruff stuff offers adjustable controls that are stock longer lengths.

I am going to look into them after I check out Stinkyfabs mid arm kit. Thanks man!

Rcp is one the great guys spending time shareing what hes learned. Anak is another there's a few guys hanging out on the stock page that are badass to. Actually lots of great guys here.

Oh yea I know his username. Yes, there are people on hear who probably could have been Astronauts. It amazes me how smart some of the NAXJA members are. That's why I use this forum as my primary source of information and content. Their posts on here are on a completely another level in comparison to the other Cherokee forums.

As far as what to do with your shocks if they dont work. Ive done stuff twice 3 times cussed alot.
5100s are cheap scrap them and get shocks that work.

They are crap? Why do you say they are crap? I have read pretty good reviews on them. I want the best ride quality on the road and to float over bumps and not feel a thing. I want to feel like I'm riding a magic carpet! What are some better stocks that I don't have to pay an arm and a leg or?

Also, Why do you not think the Stocks may not work? Is it because of the Bar Pin Eliminators? Do i Need longer stocks?

With the 3"Coils + 1" spacer kit+CA drop Relocation Bracket+3" Leaf Springs+ Rear Leaf Relocation Bracket that should bring me to 4" in front and around 4-4'.5' in the rear.

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]


Add to the "no" list that stock shackles just won't cut it. The relocation brackets are something to think about later once you get the lift installed.

Unfortunately, I already bought it as I only have the shop for a couple of days.
 
Aftermarket shackles can be bought in about 1/2" increments from all the different manufacturers. Know that a 2" inch longer shackle will not you about 1". The stock shackles will give you a really rough ride, again set the relocation brackets aside for now!
 
Aftermarket shackles can be bought in about 1/2" increments from all the different manufacturers. Know that a 2" inch longer shackle will not you about 1". The stock shackles will give you a really rough ride, again set the relocation brackets aside for now!

What for though? I have the chance to do it now and I only have so much time I can use the shop. Plus , I already ordered it. I can just buy some aftermarket shackles and stick with what I already have. K suspensions website says their relocator gives a 1"-1.5"...So you're saying I can really expect a .5-1"inch lift when settled? Bc that sounds perfect.
 
Yes, I read that the stock lower control arms work best on a 4.5 lift with CA drop relocation brackets. My problem with that is that the stock LCA are flimsy. Is there anywhere I can buy aftermarket control arms that are the same length but beefier?

There are plenty of choices. I use CORE Upper and lower control arms. Mainly on price, but they are stout. I do have JKS, and RC. I don't like the RC. The upper bracket to the axle is only 1/16".

Don't worry right now about the 5100 shock length. You can use loner bump stops and tethers to limit you suspension travel. Then again, measure your suspension travel and see if you shocks will work as is. I did order two rear OEM shocks for a 3-1/2 lift. Their lengths were the same as the 4.5 lift ones from Bilstein.
 
What for though? I have the chance to do it now and I only have so much time I can use the shop. Plus , I already ordered it. I can just buy some aftermarket shackles and stick with what I already have. K suspensions website says their relocator gives a 1"-1.5"...So you're saying I can really expect a .5-1"inch lift when settled? Bc that sounds perfect.

That "rule of thumb" only applies to "shackles" not to mounting surfaces. You will be extremely un-happy, maybe mad if the stock shackles bind with the lack of travel they provide.
 
That "rule of thumb" only applies to "shackles" not to mounting surfaces. You will be extremely unhappy, maybe mad if the stock shackles bind with the lack of travel they provide.

I'm sorry. I am having a hard time understanding what you mean. Can you explain? My bad. So if I get new "no lift" shackles in conjunction with the leaf relocation brackets would that prevent this from happening an ensure a better ride? I want to do it since I am already down there and have everything off. I don't know when I will be able to use my dad's shop again.
 
Yes, I read that the stock lower control arms work best on a 4.5 lift with CA drop relocation brackets. My problem with that is that the stock LCA are flimsy. Is there anywhere I can buy aftermarket control arms that are the same length but beefier?

There are plenty of choices. I use CORE Upper and lower control arms. Mainly on price, but they are stout. I do have JKS, and RC. I don't like the RC. The upper bracket to the axle is only 1/16".

Don't worry right now about the 5100 shock length. You can use loner bump stops and tethers to limit you suspension travel. Then again, measure your suspension travel and see if you shocks will work as is. I did order two rear OEM shocks for a 3-1/2 lift. Their lengths were the same as the 4.5 lift ones from Bilstein.

So you think the stock shocks will work with the 4" lift? If that's the case I will just return them and wait until I can afford a better shock. I thought 5100's are great for driving on the road and not bad off-road either.

What type and size shock would you run with the 4.5 lift? As I said I plan on getting a mid or long-arm kit in the near future. Will that have any effect on the length of shock I should run? I also noticed some guys run diffrent shocks and diffrent sizes for front and back. My shocks and entire suspension is shot. Every time I hear a bump it SLAMS. I'm at the point where the ride is getting so rough I get nauseous if I drive it for too long.
 
It's hard to explain but the rear shackle only provides 1/2 of the leaf spring, so a 6" shackle only nets 3" lift. Now the shackle itself has to be able to provide the needed travel for the leaf to function properly and have a angle that gives the leaf a "good" ride along with the needed drop-out. I think if you called Zone they would say a longer than stock shackle is recommended for their leaf to function properly. BTW, K fab has the worst products and rep!
 
Also add to your list axle shims because your rotating the pinion up which works for a dye but not for a conventional 2 joint driveshaft.
 
SYE
 
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