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being ready for the expected unexpected (hardware for broken/rusted susp components)

X

Xjin85

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MA
I just received:

Zone Off-Road 3-inch coil springs
Zone Aoff-Road full leaf packet
RE Adj. Track Bar

I will be doing the installation in a few days. and plan to install Cooper S 32/10.50/16r tires when finished

I’ve read that several people saying to expect cutting out bolts/nuts and replacing Brackets, shackles, bushings, etc. and I just want to make sure I have everything readily available and be prepared for any surprises so I can do this in one shot.

This is the extra hardware I am planning on buying but want to make sure with you guys this is everything I need before buying.

Rear Leaf Spring Shackle Bolt and Nuts
https://teamcherokee.com/rear-leaf-spring-shackle-bolt-nut-set-cherokee-1984-1998/ x2

Rear Leaf Spring Mounting Plate Locking Nut Set 8 peices x1

Rear Leaf Spring Mounting Shackle Set x1


Front Coil Spring Retaining Bracket and Bolt x2

https://teamcherokee.com/front-coil-spring-retainer-bracket-w-mounting-bolt-oem-jeep-cherokee-comanche-1984-2001/x2
Is this sold as a pair? I'm confused about what they wrote in the description.

FRONT SHOCK POLY URETHANE GROMMETx1
https://teamcherokee.com/front-shock-poly-urethane-grommet-set-jeep-cherokee-comanche-1984-2001/

Trackbar Bracket Stud with nutx1

Also, what about:
-Front Coil Bushings/stops?
-Rear Leaf Spring Bushings?
-Front trackbar Bushings?

will any of these extra components come with just the leaf and coil springs since I ordered them separately and not in a kit?


Is that all the extra hardware I should have on hand for the installation or am I missing anything? Also, are the quantities correct?

questions,

-How common is it for the perch spring shackles to be rusted out and need to be replaced? I live in Boston and we get a ton of salt on the roads. Everything is pretty rusted under the truck. Should I buy new ones?

-what is the best angle shackle to use? Is it necessary with a 3” lift and will it significantly improve the ride? Eventually, I want to get this up to 3.5 or 4 inches and want to ensure for the best "on the road drive" as possible
 
Also, what about:
-Front Coil Bushings/stops?
-Rear Leaf Spring Bushings?
-Front trackbar Bushings?

If those parts did not come with the related parts you already received then yes, you will need to order those.

Regarding the front coil springs, I think what you are calling "bushings" are most often called "isolators". Regarding the "stops", you are probably looking for "extended bump stops" to match your lift. Or you can make up for the lift by adding hockey pucks to the bottom spring perches.

Leaf spring bushings seem to come down to what equipment you can readily access. If you have access to a press then I think your best bet is to run Moog (Clevite) OE style bushings in the spring eyes (provided your springs have OE size eyes at the ends). If you cannot access a press, or if your new springs use a smaller eye, then you are looking for poly bushings.

For the front track bar you may want to look at Kevin's Offroad for his hard durometer bushings for the axle end of the track bar. Also note that he offers oversized hardware to make up for the elongated holes that are often found there.

Given your location and the expected challenges due to rust I would recommend you start spraying the hardware with Kroil (or 50/50 ATF/Acetone) a week before you intend to tear into this job. And to that end I would recommend you pull your rear bumper so you can get the Kroil onto the exposed threads inside the frame channel.
 
Sorry for not clarifying. It was delivered to the shop and I am out of town so i don't know what's in the kit exactly.

QUOTE=Anak;246768822]Also, what about:
-Front Coil Bushings/stops?
-Rear Leaf Spring Bushings?
-Front trackbar Bushings?

If those parts did not come with the related parts you already received then yes, you will need to order those.

Regarding the front coil springs, I think what you are calling "bushings" are most often called "isolators". Regarding the "stops", you are probably looking for "extended bump stops" to match your lift. Or you can make up for the lift by adding hockey pucks to the bottom spring perches.

Leaf spring bushings seem to come down to what equipment you can readily access. If you have access to a press then I think your best bet is to run Moog (Clevite) OE style bushings in the spring eyes (provided your springs have OE size eyes at the ends). If you cannot access a press, or if your new springs use a smaller eye, then you are looking for poly bushings.

For the front track bar you may want to look at Kevin's Offroad for his hard durometer bushings for the axle end of the track bar. Also note that he offers oversized hardware to make up for the elongated holes that are often found there.

Given your location and the expected challenges due to rust I would recommend you start spraying the hardware with Kroil (or 50/50 ATF/Acetone) a week before you intend to tear into this job. And to that end I would recommend you pull your rear bumper so you can get the Kroil onto the exposed threads inside the frame channel.[/QUOTE]
 
What can I expect that needs to be replaced? ie. broken nuts, rusted shackles, bushings, etc.? I only bought the leaf springs and coils separately.
 
Since I bought the coils, leafs, and u-bolts separately and not in a kit do I need to buy new bushings for the leafs and shackles?

https://zoneoffroad.com/products/leaf-spring-bushing-sleeve-kit-for-2-leaves-1984-2001-jeep-cherokee-xj?variant=40198599737432

Are there any Nuts/bolts for the new front coils and shocks I should buy in the event of them breaking? I already bought new bolts and nuts (6x M14x200) to replace the hardware on the leafs and shackles for the rear.

I am pretty sure I will have to replace the perch spring shackles based on all the rust of the other components. How common is it to have to replace them bc of rust? would these work?

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/products/rustys-3-hole-anti-wrap-leaf-spring-perch

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/products/rustys-3-hole-anti-wrap-leaf-spring-perch

Didn't buy the shock retainers bc apparently, you don't really need them.
 
So I decided I will be running 32" tires if they will fit and if not I will just go with 31"

265= 32” tires is that right? Do you think I could fit 32x11.50 or 31x11.50?

Not sure if the extra width will cause any rubbing but I'd love 11.50 vs 10.50 width if they will work with the 31 or 32's Will the added with cause rubbing with a 3.75-4 offset? I would like the tires to poke out a bit from the fenders.

Here are the additional components bought last night to add to the rear leaves, front coils, and Bistien 5100 shocks:

new Grade 8 M14x120 bolts/nuts for rear leaf springs and shackles:
https://teamcherokee.com/rear-leaf-spring-shackle-bolt-nut-set-cherokee-1984-1998/

Zone Leaf Spring Bushings Kit:

https://www.amazon.com/Zone-Offroad-ZONJ7008-Bushing-Kit/dp/B01DQUCYMW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=Y5ADQSJPJM1Z&keywords=zone+bushings&qid=1675280511&sprefix=zone+bushings%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-1

New Shock Isolators for new Blisten 5100 Shocks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M6J5ZG?tag=namespacebran76-20

New Front Bump Stops:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09MCLJ29L/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A28CS1WV8IJX6S&psc=1

New Sway Bar Link Bushings:
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K3150-Sway-Link-Repair/dp/B000C57X62/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2X6PM9B4CMKY&keywords=moog+k3150&qid=1675280128&s=automotive&sprefix=moog+k3150%2Cautomotive%2C128&sr=1-1

NewStabilizer Bushings kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K3160-Sway-Bar-Bushing/dp/B000C59XME/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1BZSPUTSHFXZM&keywords=moog+k3160&qid=1675280266&s=automotive&sprefix=moog+k3160%2Cautomotive%2C143&sr=1-1

New Stabilizer Bar Link Kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750132-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B003UI3IOO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3JABXTKQ5ZI1M&keywords=moog+k750132&qid=1675280366&s=automotive&sprefix=moog+k750132%2Cautomotive%2C160&sr=1-1

Is there anything else I am missing?

Since I am putting in new shocks and coils I was planning on getting new bolts to replace the rusted old ones. Does anyone know the size of the bolts that are needed for the shocks? Our would it be necessary/better to get:

Upper Shock Mount Adapter kit
https://www.amazon.com/JKS-9605-Front-Upper-Adapter/dp/B005TTZIH2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3HJNC0Q36OHUB&keywords=jks+9605&qid=1675280906&sprefix=jks+9605%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-1

Suspension Shock Mounting Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Monroe-P00837-Parts-Package-Hardware/product-reviews/B002H39T1O/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews

Upper shock Bar pin eliminator
https://www.amazon.com/NIXFACE-Upper-Shock-Eliminator-1204800/dp/B07T18JRQ7/ref=sr_1_7?crid=CUE9VAGQ6ZLG&keywords=jeep+xj+front+shock+lower+bar+eliminator&qid=1675281687&sprefix=jeep+xj+fron+shock+lower+bar+elimanator%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-7

Stock Stem Eliminator:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006D9W5GE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I plan on replacing the lower control arms in a month or so but right now I have to put that aside for another time.
 
A few comments:

- Metric hardware strength categories go by "Class" rather than "Grade" that's used for SAE hardware strength. Class 10.9 metric is roughly equivalent to Grade 8 SAE. Class 8.8 metric is roughly equal to Grade 5 SAE.

- Urethane leaf spring bushings will increase cabin noise levels.

- I see that you are ordering new front bump stops, but you may want to get a bump stop extension as well because most lift kits don't allow the suspension to compress to the factory level. Here is an example of a 3" version which is muc more than you'll likely need. These attach to the spring perch on the front axle.
 
Thank god NAXJA forum. You guys are really the best. I couldn’t finish a book to this day in my life but have read 2 or 3

RCP Phx said:
They could but you need more info, my 265/75-16's are 32".
Click to expand...

Thanks man for the help! Please let me know what else you need to know so I can fit 265/75’s with my lift. Everything I have so far is what I’ve posted above. Is there anything else I should consider buying?

What do you have on your rig with the 32’s?


maxbraketorque said:
A few comments:

- Metric hardware strength categories go by "Class" rather than "Grade" that's used for SAE hardware strength. Class 10.9 metric is roughly equivalent to Grade 8 SAE. Class 8.8 metric is roughly equal to Grade 5 SAE.
Click to expand...

I’ve read this. Some guys were saying the Metric nuts fit loose as Apples’s to the SAE M14 bolts.


- Urethane leaf spring bushings will increase cabin noise levels.
Click to expand...
No shit? I did not know this and wish I knew before. Thanks for giving me that knowledge.

[/QUOTE]- I see that you are ordering new front bump stops, but you may want to get a bump stop extension as well because most lift kits don't allow the suspension to compress to the factory level. Here is an example of a 3" version which is muc more than you'll likely need. These attach to the spring perch on the front axle.[/QUOTE]

Sorry, I think you were going to share a picture or link but forgot? 🤔
Can you show me what you’re talking about bc is love to see what your talking bout?

I’m nervous to find the existing perch’s rusted out. I was goin to buy a new pair to have ready just in case. But didn’t🤞
 
Just so you know, when you say "265/75" you need to also include the rim diameter. It makes a difference. A 265/75 can be had in either a 15" or 16" rim size.
 
Anak said:
Just so you know, when you say "265/75" you need to also include the rim diameter. It makes a difference. A 265/75 can be had in either a 15" or 16" rim size.
Click to expand...

I am hoping to go with 16's if they will fit with depending on the backspacing of the wheels.
 
Xjin85 said:
Thank god NAXJA forum. You guys are really the best. I couldn’t finish a book to this day in my life but have read 2 or 3



Thanks man for the help! Please let me know what else you need to know so I can fit 265/75’s with my lift. Everything I have so far is what I’ve posted above. Is there anything else I should consider buying?

What do you have on your rig with the 32’s?




I’ve read this. Some guys were saying the Metric nuts fit loose as Apples’s to the SAE M14 bolts.



No shit? I did not know this and wish I knew before. Thanks for giving me that knowledge.

- I see that you are ordering new front bump stops, but you may want to get a bump stop extension as well because most lift kits don't allow the suspension to compress to the factory level. Here is an example of a 3" version which is muc more than you'll likely need. These attach to the spring perch on the front axle.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I think you were going to share a picture or link but forgot? 🤔
Can you show me what you’re talking about bc is love to see what your talking bout?

I’m nervous to find the existing perch’s rusted out. I was goin to buy a new pair to have ready just in case. But didn’t🤞
Click to expand...
 
Xjin85 said:
....

I’ve read this. Some guys were saying the Metric nuts fit loose as Apples’s to the SAE M14 bolts.



- I see that you are ordering new front bump stops, but you may want to get a bump stop extension as well because most lift kits don't allow the suspension to compress to the factory level. Here is an example of a 3" version which is muc more than you'll likely need. These attach to the spring perch on the front axle.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I think you were going to share a picture or link but forgot? 🤔
Can you show me what you’re talking about bc is love to see what your talking bout?

I’m nervous to find the existing perch’s rusted out. I was goin to buy a new pair to have ready just in case. But didn’t🤞
Click to expand...

M14 is by definition metric. There is no SAE M14. You'll have to use M14 bolts for the leaf and shackle mounts because the nuts are integrated into the body, and they are M14. You really want to avoid trashing those captive nuts.

Yes, all urethane bushings allow more noise into the cabin than rubber bushings.

For an example of bump stops, do a Google search on Rubicon Express RE1380.
 
This stuff is all fine to get you headed in the right direction but you still have to put all together and do all the fine tuning after you see your ACTUAL results. Nothing is perfect right out of the box!
 
XJI6191 said:
Yes, of course you're right; I was talking 15" - as I thought everyone else was, but looking back, wheel diameter doesn't seem to have been mentioned.
Click to expand...

Neither was the aspect ratio that's why your info was useless!
 
XJI6191 said:
Yes, of course, you're right; I was talking 15" - as I thought everyone else was, but looking back, wheel diameter doesn't seem to have been mentioned.
Click to expand...

Makes no diffrence to me. I would Ideally like to go 16 but will go 15 if it helps with clearance and no rubbing on the 32x11.50 tires. I have to replace the shackles so I am ordering new ones tonight and thought that maybe I should buy extended shackles if it helps with that. I have no issue having to trim



maxbraketorque said:
M14 is by definition metric. There is no SAE M14. You'll have to use M14 bolts for the leaf and shackle mounts because the nuts are integrated into the body, and they are M14. You really want to avoid trashing those captive nuts.

Yes, all urethane bushings allow more noise into the cabin than rubber bushings.

For an example of bump stops, do a Google search on Rubicon Express RE1380.
Click to expand...

I am going to be EXTRA careful and go slow and use a lot of heat and PB to make sure they stay in tac the best I can.

Will also be spraying all cavities and port holes with PB Blaster Surface Sheild.

Also, will be painting the U-bolts to prevent rust.

RCP Phx said:
This stuff is all fine to get you headed in the right direction but you still have to put all together and do all the fine tuning after you see your ACTUAL results. Nothing is perfect right out of the box!
Click to expand...

YESSIR! That's what I'm saying. It is a process and a HUGE LEARNING CURVE FOR ME


RCP Phx said:
Neither was the aspect ratio that's why your info was useless!
Click to expand...

Soo the tires I am considering :

32x11.50
275/75=32.2x10.8
265/70=32.7x10.40

I used the link https://tiresize.com/comparison/and input the tire sizes above to compare all 3 tires.

I liked the 32x11.50 and 275/75's so either would suffice.

Since I have to replace the shackles anyways would it be best to get extended shackles and relocators? Id so what size would you go with when considering these tires?

That's the last piece of the puzzle to figure out then IT'S ON! hoping to start this weekend or Monday at the lattest and will share my enite process with everyone!
 
Here is a list of replaceable hardware for anyone who needs it. Hope it will help some of you guys who are going to be doing the same thing.

Can anyone confirm that these specs and quantities are correct? Also, Can I use Flage nuts for all of these so I don't have to buy washers?

SHOCKS
Shocks at bar pins
**M8x1.25x35mm (x16)*with nuts, 4x lock washers for rear bolts

Lower shock stud at the rear axle
*M12x1.75* with nuts (x2)

*-Front spring retainer
*M8x1.25x25mm (x2)

FRONT SWAY BAR
Front sway bar at frame-
*M10x1.5x30mm (x4)

Front sway bar end link stud at axle-
*M12x1.75 with nuts*(x2)

CONTROL ARMS
Upper control arms
*M10x1.5x80mm (x4 )

Lower Control arms
*M14x2.0x120mm (x4)

Leaf springs/ shackles-
*M14x2.0x110mm (x6)
* * * *x2 nuts required at shackle,
* * * **frame side eye is welded nut

I think that's about all the hardware needed. Is there any other hardware I should buy?*
​​​​​​​
Also,*Bump regarding what shackles and size I should get. Adjustable?.

And does anyone know or can recommend a vendor who sells wheels at a good price? Looking to get some soft 8's preferably Crager or pro-comp with 3.5-4 inch backspacing. I was looking at the 16s I was planning on using with the 32s but it looks like they won't work.
 
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