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Project: Keeping It Clean

Are you concerned about moisture between the body and the MVL? How is it attached, some sort of spray glue?

How much MVL did you get, and from where? More details, more!

Not concerned about moisture much at all. The MLV is waterproof (being vinyl), and the CCF is pretty water resistant.

See post below for more information on stuff and things :D

You have a Dirtbound center console bracket ready to go, yes?

Actually JCR :laugh:

I had a $50 Cert to JCR, so I got one of their center console brackets, since the one in this Jeep was...surprise surprise...broken.

Got it installed last night!
 
So, to give a brief overview, the MLV and CCF are not really adhered to the body. The only thing holding them in place (and doing a rather fine job of it), are the physical weight and velcro strips.

First step is to strip the body down, and get it cleaned up. I first used a spray bottle and a shop vac to get up a bunch of dust and dirt. From there, it all got wiped down with mineral spirits.

Then came the CLD (Constrained Layer Dampening) tiles. These are a butyl back pieces, that have adhesive and get placed to cover ~25% (I went more, though I didn't really *need* to) to cut down on resonance and vibration. I used a knuckle method, knocking everywhere I could and applying the CLD in areas that sounded hollow, flexed more, etc.

One this is done, the real fun begins.

I cut the MLV in sections, making my way through the cab. Prior to pulling the MLV out, I would push against it and mark areas that were flat, so that double sided velcro would adhere. Once I had areas fitted and marked for where to place velcro, I pulled the MLV out.

Once it was out, I would lay it on the CCF and cut out a piece to match. Then, I cut 1" x 2" or so sections of velcro and placed them on the MLV as I had marked.

Then, feel through the CCF and mark where to cut holes for the velcro, and cut the holes out.

Use some Vinyl Cement, and add some small dabs to both in the same (mirrored) areas, and let cure until tacky. Then place them together and pat them center out, so that both pieces lay nice and flat.

From there, place it where it was, and strategically pull the other velcro adhesive cover off, and press in place.

Here's some pictures that might help:

MLV on bottom with velcro and some Vinyl Cement, Mirrored CCF on top with cements as well.

26229036508_08887b2f94_c.jpg


Them put together and letting cure for a few minutes:

26229035258_21f9afa3c0_c.jpg


From there, they get applied to look like this, before gap strips are placed:

26229037778_6405edd713_c.jpg
 
Now, for a materials list...

I kind of based my stuff off what Sound Deadener Showdown had (they have a list for XJ's, provided by someone who did it previously). I would highly recommend that site to anyone curious to get an idea, see pictures, etc. I would have gotten everything from there, but his prices are a bit higher, and the shipping was...a LOT.

As a note, I did a LOT, and I mean a LOT of shopping around. Here's what I went with.

CLD Tiles:

I looked around, and settled on the following, they've got good reviews around the web, and this isn't a high end car:

Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got one. I *should* have enough to do the roof, doors, and hatch with what I have left.

$65.60

Mass Loaded Vinyl:

1lb/sqft, 1/8" thickness, Qty: 100 sqft.

I got mine for $154 shipped before some discount off eBay ($15 off $75 or more).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1lb-Mass-L...772331?hash=item1c4fbb7feb:g:Nb4AAOSweW5U568c

I've still got a bit of roll left. In theory I could measure it by weight, as each sq. ft. is 1 lb.

That 100 lb. roll was a pain to move :laugh:

Closed Cell Foam:

There were quite a few places that were close, but I went through The Foam Factory (www.foambymail.com) .

Neoprene Foam Sheets
Density: High Quality
Thickness: 1/8" Thick
SheetSize: 80" x 48"
Qty. 5

$119.95

I also got the following for Heater Box Seals:

Cross Linked Polyethylene - 2LB
Thickness: 1"
SheetSize: 48" x 24"
Color: Charcoal
Qty. 1
$26.99

Velcro

I originally got one box, but actually ended up needing two (have lots of leftovers)

VELCRO Brand - Industrial Strength - 2" Wide Tape, 15' - White

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006HWYJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$19 each x 2 = $38

3M Thinsulate Acoustic

I got this for the roof and rear quarters. In reality it's good for wherever you can stuff it. What doesn't find it's way into the roof and rear quarters, will be used in the doors.

I got 10' x 5' of it, for 50 total feet. $136.62 before some of the same eBay discounts.

Here's the only place I could find it "retail". Looking around, this stuff is some of the best, of the best:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Thinsul...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Contact Cement

I got the stuff recommended by SDS, HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement.

Cheapest I found it was Tarpstop.com, I got two since they were cheaper (in case).

$40.31 shipped.

Other things:
Butyle Rope (mainly for doors and hatch) - $16.90
Roller (for installing CLD) - $10

So, total cost currently is (not factoring in the eBay discounts): ~$607.75.

Yep, I realize that's far more that 99% of XJ owners are willing to spend, but for me the interior was already out, and I wanted a nice quiet rig. I'll be able to compare an "OEM" XJ (zluster's) to this one to see decibel difference. I also plan on running a Walker Quiet Flow as well. Installed one on the wife's '96, and I like it.

So there...expensive and a bit of work :laugh:
 
Man, this is awesome.

I am trying to restore an XJ and have been planning to spend some time this summer on the interior and sound deadening. Have no clue what I am doing in this department so I will be following this thread.
 
Old heater core out, with it's less than stellar foam seals:

40155796661_9ca55e71b3_c.jpg


Torn apart:

40123204272_3bfd602990_c.jpg


Back together with new foam seals, and cleaned up inside and out:

40155795741_e0c9bbfcee_c.jpg


40123203882_c175339b75_c.jpg


Back in, and the dash hanging as of last night.

40123203412_7f143f03d2_c.jpg


The dash was still a little wet and from getting hosed off and cleaned earlier that day...so I moved onto stripping the engine:

28375514759_95170b1e60_c.jpg


I've done enough of these I could do a head gasket in a day. This will just be a FULL Preventative Maintenance overhaul, outside of actually doing the head gasket.

Once I get my hot water line in the shop fixed, it will get pushed outside for a good engine bay clean down and coolant system flush.
 
I was looking at the CLD you used on Amazon. Did the packaging have anything about temperature rating? I need to insulate my trans tunnel to keep some heat down in the summer, and the CLD with some of the foam will probably help since there is pretty much zero interior.

Awesome work as usual tho. Looks like it'll make quite a difference.
 
The foil backed butyl on Amazon should be more than capable of withstanding those temps. Its the "same" stuff that sits relatively close to the exhaust that's OEM (the stuff I froze and chiseled off).

I can't imagine these are that much different than the SDS ones.

From SDS, the specs of those are 400°F+ for 8 hours+. So, even at 60% of that stuff, it should be fine.
 
Thanks for all the detail on the sound deadening. I need to do some floor repair at some point in the next few months, and adding some quality sound deadening is on the list for the same time. I'll be interested to see the decibel difference between yours and a stock interior
 
Thinking I have a leaking Evap which is why my AC is not working properly. Dreading taking the dash apart to fix this. Been thinking about the foam seals. If I missed it I apologize but could you supply a link to what you used?
 
Thanks for all the detail on the sound deadening. I need to do some floor repair at some point in the next few months, and adding some quality sound deadening is on the list for the same time. I'll be interested to see the decibel difference between yours and a stock interior

Yeah I'll be curious to see.

Thinking I have a leaking Evap which is why my AC is not working properly. Dreading taking the dash apart to fix this. Been thinking about the foam seals. If I missed it I apologize but could you supply a link to what you used?

https://www.foambymail.com/XPE2/cross-linked-polyethylene-foam-2lb.html

1" thick in Charcoal color.

For the firewall, it's great.

For the HVAC stuff, it caused some pain in getting the heater core in, and then the dash. I'd say something more spongy than this (it compacts, but not as easily as the stock stuff) would be better. I had to trim the thickness on two of the gaskets to get it in, and the dash to sit right.
 
https://www.foambymail.com/XPE2/cross-linked-polyethylene-foam-2lb.html

1" thick in Charcoal color.

For the firewall, it's great.

For the HVAC stuff, it caused some pain in getting the heater core in, and then the dash. I'd say something more spongy than this (it compacts, but not as easily as the stock stuff) would be better. I had to trim the thickness on two of the gaskets to get it in, and the dash to sit right.

Thanks for the link and the insight. I want to say the foam for the heater box from Jeep runs about $60. I notice they come in different thicknesses. Do you think 3/4" might be a better choice just for the heater box gaskets? Figure even with shipping the 3/4 is about $33.
 
Thanks for the link and the insight. I want to say the foam for the heater box from Jeep runs about $60. I notice they come in different thicknesses. Do you think 3/4" might be a better choice just for the heater box gaskets? Figure even with shipping the 3/4 is about $33.

Kinda 50/50 there.

I would have probably tried 3/4".

The $60 kit from Jeep might be worth it, but I've *heard* of slight fitment issues.

It took me some time to get mine traced, retraced, cut out with cardboard, cut, then trimmed to where they were.
 
Again thank you for the insight. Being winter just trying to lay some ground work for upcoming projects in the Spring. Between your pictures and my parts catalog I have an idea of the part #'s of all the seals. Now just try to decide which way to go.
 
Again thank you for the insight. Being winter just trying to lay some ground work for upcoming projects in the Spring. Between your pictures and my parts catalog I have an idea of the part #'s of all the seals. Now just try to decide which way to go.

Yeah, either way works. I like the stuff I bought better for the firewall, but would have chosen differently for the interior, not that it didn't end up working just fine.
 
Well, I've been making some progress, getting the engine done over and taken care of.

Got a few hundred $ worth of stuff from Rock Auto and Advance, and got to work.

Things done this weekend:

- Engine bay cleaned up
- New Waterpump and Tube
- New Tstat Housing and T-stat
- New Heater Hoses
- New Valve Cover Gasket and Grommets
- New Exhaust Manifold and Intake/Exhaust Manifold Gasket
- Throttle Body gasket
- New Air Filter
- New Belt
- POR-15 and Paint in Areas
- New Alternator
- Battery Cable Upgrade Install

Still to do:

- Flush radiator
- Install Radiator and new hoses
- Install New Fan Shroud
- Install New Fuel Injector O-Rings

Engine bay pretty well stripped and ready for cleaning. Everything that comes out, gets scrubbed and clean. That includes mechanical and electric fans, air box, battery box, etc. etc.

39464868495_6c3c9541e3_c.jpg


Intake Manifold needing a clean:

39651065664_bbc6a61162_c.jpg


I pushed it outside, and hooked up the pressure washer. I have hot water in my shop, plumbed from the house.

If you think a regular pressure washer is good at getting dirt off, a pressure washer with how water...is a whole lot better.

I sprayed it down pretty good once, and let everything dry. I came back a couple days later and briefly scrubbed with soap in a brush where I could reach. It wasn't perfect, and I could spend a lot more time cleaning, but I decided getting it back together was a bit more important.

Got a new exhaust manifold:

38551881480_6d0e2d4db9_c.jpg


Pressure washed it, wiped it down with mineral spirits, then applied VHT High Temp Paint:

38551880210_1d3b5cf2e6_c.jpg


Got the manifold bolts cleaned up and some paint thrown on them.

39464866185_510c346dab_c.jpg


Most of the way back in and there:

38551878860_45a831ecec_c.jpg


Rockers looked nice and clean when I pulled the cover:

39464865185_9180fc1b73_c.jpg


Not too far off now!
 
As mentioned, I got a new alternator installed.

There wasn't anything wrong with the old one, but I wanted something better than stock.

So, in my perusing around, I came across an alternator somewhat commonly swapping in, for far cheaper than normal on Amazon.

ACDelco 334-1446, Durango 5.9L - 160 Amps

Was able to score it for ~$115 on Amazon.

Install wasn't too bad. It's bigger than stock, so the bracket needs to be ground some.

Got the bracket modified, and threw some paint back on it.

Here's the only picture I got of it installed:

39464867365_46ecc7a610_c.jpg


You can see some POR-15 in the picture as well. Below the battery box is an area the always seems to be a magnet for rust. I wire wheeled it and put on some POR-15. One spot might need to be cut out and redone at a later time.
 
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So, the other thing I got taken care of, was a battery cable upgrade.

I bartered some LED stuff with XJWonders (MeanLemons Battery Cables), for a 2AWG set.

It took me a few hours to get it all in place, as I'm a bit attentive to making routing as clean as possible without the cable touching things, firmly secured, etc.

My "review"

Pros:

- Great Crimps
- Great cable
- Comes with everything needed (mostly)

Cons:

- Was shipped two negative battery terminals
- In some areas, I would have made the cable different
- The cable lug end meant for the alternator, didn't fit my stock stud or the new Alternators stud.

I'll add some pictures:

Connected to the alternator, I added a rubber wire boot (I've got a bunch of spare electrical stuff). The stock plastic cover wouldn't fit on the 2AWG. I had to drill out the lug to fit on the alternator stud.

39464863155_ee7d3641d7_c.jpg


Final routing. Not the "most" ideal as I'd have it laid out, but it will work just fine.

38551874200_4de271de13_c.jpg


I drilled and mounted the fuse holder along the fenderwell.

39464861655_98d287615f_c.jpg


I used some MLV underneath it for a couple reasons:

- The plastic plugs on the bottom of the stud terminals kept falling off, this this will prevent an unwanted grounding of the terminals on the fender.

- As the fender is not fully flat, it allows some cushion and vibration dampening to the fuse holder box.

Line to the Alternator (red), and line to the starter (inside wire sheath). I affixed the starter cable inside some new plastic sheathing, and then mounted it with a rubber lined clamp to an existing hole there. I zip tied the alternator cable to that plastic sheathing, as well the the A/C line (with some hose spiced around the A/C line as a barrier/protection from rubbing).

39651066334_6514c55946_c.jpg


39464860695_6b489432e7_c.jpg


On my buggy, all lines like these were sheathed in Fire Sleeve. I was going to do that on these as well since I a bunch extra, but didn't end up doing it. I might in the future, as electrical and electrical caused fires...are no joke.

Cover trimmed and reinstalled:

39464859695_4d92a22966_c.jpg


Some of the main cable changed I would have made, were cables that went from the battery, to the PDC, and from the Fuse to the PDC. I would have made these much shorter jumpers, as you can see in the last picture they're kind of "twirled".

However, I do realize this added length allows for some flexibility in mounting locations.

I was going to cut the wires and make them shorter, but realized all my lugs were sizes other than 2AWG, and I didn't feel like running to the store to get some.

Also, not pictured is the new block ground, from the engine to the fire wall.

The thicker 2AWG wire definitely makes routing a bit harder, since it doesn't bend as easy, thus tight turns aren't possible.

That being said, it's what I had planned on making, and it's a well built kit.
 
I've about got the engine wrapped up...it's been in the single digits, or below zero lately.

Though I can heat my shop, it also start to hurt the wallet doing it every night.

I noticed my steering pump return line was crimped, so that has been pulled and in the process of replacing. I'll be doing a full flush before connecting the line back up.

I went to try and flush the fuel system since it's been sitting so long. Went to jumper the fuel pump via the relay...nadda.

Did some looking through, and decided to see if the pump was getting power. it was, so it looks like a new pump is in order.

The pump was actually replaces by my friend I got the Jeep from. It had sat long enough that the pump died. Appears to have happened again.

Since I plan on keeping this Jeep, I'll get a full Bosch Assembly and drop it in.

Other than that all I need to do it throw in the radiator, fill it up, and in theory it should be back to running.

Once I know it runs, I'll get the rest of the interior and body slammed back in and on :D
 
I've about got the engine wrapped up...it's been in the single digits, or below zero lately.

Though I can heat my shop, it also start to hurt the wallet doing it every night.

I noticed my steering pump return line was crimped, so that has been pulled and in the process of replacing. I'll be doing a full flush before connecting the line back up.

I went to try and flush the fuel system since it's been sitting so long. Went to jumper the fuel pump via the relay...nadda.

Did some looking through, and decided to see if the pump was getting power. it was, so it looks like a new pump is in order.

The pump was actually replaces by my friend I got the Jeep from. It had sat long enough that the pump died. Appears to have happened again.

Since I plan on keeping this Jeep, I'll get a full Bosch Assembly and drop it in.

Other than that all I need to do it throw in the radiator, fill it up, and in theory it should be back to running.

Once I know it runs, I'll get the rest of the interior and body slammed back in and on :D

How big is your shop?

I have a two car garage and when its pretty cold I fire up two of these on high and it heats the garage in about 20-30 minutes. I got them at Costco for much less than the Amazon price. Then again I'm not heating from near 0 temps. I'm heating from the 30s-40s.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8NLKT...y=9030824&hvtargid=pla-368936894111&camp=1789
 
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