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OME 3" lift installed....Now questions

b00001

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
Starting with 2001 XJ 4x4 4.0 all stock

Installed the OME CS033RB leaf packs in the back and the 934 coils up front.

I wanted 3" of lift to clear 31" tires on stock rims but no higher because I wanted to limit wear on driveline components.

I have read that stock XJ height measured from center of wheel to the bottom of fender flare is 17"

My "Before lift" measurements:
Left Front = 18"
Right Front = 18"
Left Rear = 16.5"
Right Rear = 16.5"

My "After lift" measurements:
Left Front = 21"
Right Front = 21"
Left Rear = 22"
Right Rear = 22"

The Jeep looks great but I am very concerned with all this "extra lift" and what it is going to do to my driveline/suspension components. I have read some say the lift will "settle" some, and I have read others who said the lift has not moved in years.

I measured the rear driveshaft angle before lift and it was appx 10.3*, now after lift it is appx 18*. After lift pic attached.

I do not want to hurt the Jeep so should I go ahead pull the 3rd leaf from the rear???

Thank you very much in advance!

49461153918_99d2c95214.jpg


49461876977_a24255e5b6.jpg
 
The lift will settle. Keep in mind your rear springs were likely sagged, which is part of why you've got such a big difference in the back.

How does it drive? If you're getting driveshaft vibrations from the angle a slip yoke eliminator is a good next step.
 
Anyone have measurements for what stock height should be from the center of the wheel to anything other than the fender flare? My flares are removed.
 
The lift will settle. Keep in mind your rear springs were likely sagged, which is part of why you've got such a big difference in the back.

How does it drive? If you're getting driveshaft vibrations from the angle a slip yoke eliminator is a good next step.

Understood on the sagged rear springs. BUT, if "stock" is 17" that puts my lift being 4" in the front and 5" in the rear vs stock.

ARB advertises the rear spring as a "Medium load, 2.5"-3" lift. I did NOT want a 5" lift specifically as it would require a SYE which is more money, more work, etc.

I have only driven it up my street, maybe 30mph, but it sounds like there may be some noise...
 
2000-01 are more prone to drive-line vibs with a lift, I would start saving for an SYE.

IIRC there is an alternate way to measure the suspension in the FAQ section, or you can measure from the center of the rim to the crease in the fender and post that for comparison.
 
With OME, I think this is pretty common. I've got OME leafs (I think the 33RB), and I started out around 4.5 inch lift with them.

You should put a couple hundred pounds of sand bags in the back - kids play sand at the home center is pretty cheap. The springs will settle some, maybe 3/4" and the weight will help it happen sooner.

As a double check, did you do final torque on everything while the vehicle was down on the ground and off the stands or lift?

FWIW, I did have some driveline vibration in my 1997 at 3.5" with a 231 and 8.25. At the moment I've got the transmission crossmember from Rusty's and it has a 1inch drop built into it. It cleared up any issues. I'll do a SYE at some point.
 
With OME, I think this is pretty common. I've got OME leafs (I think the 33RB), and I started out around 4.5 inch lift with them.

You should put a couple hundred pounds of sand bags in the back - kids play sand at the home center is pretty cheap. The springs will settle some, maybe 3/4" and the weight will help it happen sooner.

As a double check, did you do final torque on everything while the vehicle was down on the ground and off the stands or lift?

FWIW, I did have some driveline vibration in my 1997 at 3.5" with a 231 and 8.25. At the moment I've got the transmission crossmember from Rusty's and it has a 1inch drop built into it. It cleared up any issues. I'll do a SYE at some point.

Thanks! Yes, everything torqued with the Jeep on the ground. I am thinking of doing the Transfer Case Drop for now. How much to go though? 1"? 1.5"??

Thank you all again!
 
You can take a leaf out of that pack to lower it a bit. I think it's the 3rd one. Also stock is 17 rear and 17.5 front.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
You can take a leaf out of that pack to lower it a bit. I think it's the 3rd one. Also stock is 17 rear and 17.5 front.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thank you. Yes, that was my initial thinking as well but then I am afraid it will be nose high after that. Right now I like the stance but my driveshaft angle went from 10* to now 18* and I do not want to damage any components.

I do have a hitch to install (maybe 60lbs or so) and then my bike rack (another 50 lbs maybe). 100 lbs on the rear though is not going to drop it but about 1/4" at best.

Would a 1" transfer case drop get me back close to stock specs in driveshaft?

Adjusting toe, trackbar and centering steering wheel this morning then maybe be able to take it around the block.

Thank you all for your help so far!
 
Installed hitch and rack, filled up fuel tank and the rear is now sitting at appx 21 1/4" with the front at 21". Looks great!

I did pick up some spacers and bolts, for a 1" transfer case drop. I took it up to 65mph, nice and smooth, no vibrations BUT there is a new "howl" that was not there previously. I do not think it is tire noise (I can hear some different tire noise). Really nervous about causing any sort of wear/damage on transfer case, drive shaft or pinion.

Thanks again!
 
I would definitely drop the T-case 1 inch. You can always shim the rear leafs to get he best angle on the drive shaft. Your lift will settle a bit. I wouldn't mess with removing a leaf from the rear. A howl could be worn u joints in the drive shaft. I would look for wear and tear and grease anywhere you see a zerk fitting. Lift will accelerate any wear on drive line components.
 
I would definitely drop the T-case 1 inch. You can always shim the rear leafs to get he best angle on the drive shaft. Your lift will settle a bit. I wouldn't mess with removing a leaf from the rear. A howl could be worn u joints in the drive shaft. I would look for wear and tear and grease anywhere you see a zerk fitting. Lift will accelerate any wear on drive line components.

Thank you! I decided to leave the rear leaf pack as is, I am happy with how it looks and rides great. I think that howl I am hearing is the tires. They are new meaty MT's, it feels like I can feel the knobs at 1-2 MPH, over 5-10MPH, nothing. No vibes. The larger diameter and heavier tires, the trans if shifting more, lost a little pep. Oh well.

49469999393_38f0870f98.jpg
 
hard to tell in your pic (low light) but looks like you would benefit from shimming the rear axle a few degrees.

SYE is never a bad idea
 
Stock suspension is will known for sagging. 3" lift, is 3 inches over stock. But due to sagging its offen equals a 4 plus inch lift.
 
hard to tell in your pic (low light) but looks like you would benefit from shimming the rear axle a few degrees.

SYE is never a bad idea

Thanks for the reply! Sorry, that picture I took was not very centered or level. I do not think shims would be the way to go from what I have read. The pinion is actually quite level, pointing straight back. From what I have read if you start pointing the pinion up towards the transfer case you get into U-joint issues. ???? So far, zero vibrations up to 75MPH and that "howl" I am hearing I am thinking it is the tires.

I will look into SYE down the road a bit. Might try to find an experienced club member close by who would be willing lend a hand as I have not installed one.
 
Starting with 2001 XJ 4x4 4.0 all stock

Installed the OME CS033RB leaf packs in the back and the 934 coils up front.

I wanted 3" of lift to clear 31" tires on stock rims but no higher because I wanted to limit wear on driveline components.
[/IMG]

I'm running the same OME suspension on my 1997 XJ. The middle leaves, in the rear spring packs, have been removed, per OME, to achieve a 2" lift in the rear, using the stock shackle.
The 934 coils sit at 19-1/2" for a 2" lift.
To get the correct driveshaft angle, a 3/4" transfer case drop is being used, until a SYE and CV driveshaft are eventually installed.
With a transfer case drop, both of the rear driveshaft's u-joints should have the same angle and may require angled axle shims to correct.

The 1997 XJ is a Country with Factory skid plates, it is fairly light with few ad-ons. Other than the lift, the 30" KOs and some engine and exhaust work, it's mostly stock. It carries about 250-lbs of gear.

Another way to measure lift, from the Forum's FAQ file.
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=912893
 
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Keep in mind, you have a low pinion front axle, lowering the transfer case will only make your front driveshaft angle worse. Skip it and do a SYE if you need to.
 
Keep in mind, you have a low pinion front axle, lowering the transfer case will only make your front driveshaft angle worse. Skip it and do a SYE if you need to.

Thank you for your thoughts. Those last 4 words are what I am trying to figure out now. "...if you need to."

I have no vibrations, my angles do not look extreme. I have put a couple hundred miles on it so far and it seems to ride well. I have looked into the SYE but money is extremely tight and the job looks to be quite complicated. I really do not want to get into something that I do not necessarily need to do.
 
Thank you for your thoughts. Those last 4 words are what I am trying to figure out now. "...if you need to."

I have no vibrations, my angles do not look extreme. I have put a couple hundred miles on it so far and it seems to ride well. I have looked into the SYE but money is extremely tight and the job looks to be quite complicated. I really do not want to get into something that I do not necessarily need to do.

I'd hold off for now. Or if you're concerned pop into the Colorado chapter and see if someone local can give you a second opinion.
 
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