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CARnage thread

KRAKER said:
I almost forgot. From being tossed around and shook so much my interior lights stay on now.

check the door pins that make em come on, one of em might have rattled loose or your doors might not close too tight anymore :D open the doors and push em all in at once.
 
KRAKER said:
I already did a visual on 'em. I'll start poking and proding when I go to work.

another thought, but did you check the obvious, the headlight switch being turned all the way past where it clicks to make the int. lights stay on?
 
GrimmJeeper said:
another thought, but did you check the obvious, the headlight switch being turned all the way past where it clicks to make the int. lights stay on?

Yup sure did. I've got a short to voltage somewhere. Sumtins telling me its the headlight switch.
 
KRAKER said:
Yup sure did. I've got a short to voltage somewhere. Sumtins telling me its the headlight switch.

You sure it's to voltage?

The door switchs are ground switches so you could have a short to ground. I'm unsure offhand if the headlamp switch gives the lamp circuit ground or power but I'd imagine ground.

And yes, the headlamp switches DO go out and I would target that first (unplug it, see if the lamps go out)
 
most of the switches in the car switch ground, not power. ground just completes a circut, power shorts cause sparks fire and general melty-ness :D thats why when hooking up relays you always make em switch the ground on and off not the hot leads :wierd:
 
Not to sound like a snot and thanx for the input, but the reason I said short to voltage is cause voltage is getting where its not supposed to be. It very well could be a short to ground and the argument is a little redundant. From my training and work expeirience a short to ground usually includes a blown fuse and something doesn't work. e.g. if a wire grounds before or after a load it is a short to ground on the other hand if a switch shorts closes to voltage a circuit closes and doesn't turn off. Two cent that's all let the flaming begin
 
It totally depends on the design of the system. I really don't know right now and am waiting till I go to work to figure it out. I will keep what you guys said in mind thanx.
 
nobody thinks ur a snot we're just troubleshooting without seeing it ;) just trying to help bro. if you really shook up your rig hard a door pin wire might have worked its way loose and started touching the body. start where sequoia said and pull the door switches one at a time :D


and now back to my drinking :cheers:
 
mdickerson said:
Just a public apologie to Hellbilly for denting his bumper. I'm adumbass, what can I say?

I was alittle bumbed at first as I just had built it like 5 days ago......:doh:

Although I was very surprised how well it took the hit from a winch bumper!

Oh well it chit happens, I just bought a winch for my bumper so look out on the next run! LOL
BTW,
Did you see the pics I got of your rig in Deep-Holcomb Creek thread? No hard feelings bud just another excuse to build something winch bumper proof...
 
Thanks for being so generous. I'll keep my eye on you a little closer next time LOL. By the next run I'll have an 8" lift with AGR rock ram and an over the knuckle steering conversion installed. That'll put my buumper at your spares height. :eek:
 
Hey there's nothing wrong with a little nerfing...
 
fixed the spring hanger today gona look at why my fan belt is shredding and found the u-joint strap on the front axel was fubar guess I should carry a spare set, of course I didnt even know it was broke till today.
 
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