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Yukon Super Joints

BADaXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Maine
i've been looking into aftermarket shaft setups to get some beef into my D30. i'm running 4.56 yukons with 33's and an aussie locker. i want to avoid busted u-joints and shaft ears/ balljoints etc. so i was thinking of just getting 27 spline 4340 alloys. is it worth it to spring for the super joints instead of the alloy 760x joints? seems to me like it would be but i wanted to see what people had to say about them. does that seem like a decent combo? i think i can get shafts and super joints for around $600 shipped. CTM's are pretty exspensive, the yukons seem like a good alternative...
Thoughts?

Yukon Chromoly Super Joints

Thanks
 
If you don't want the weakest link to be the joint, then run them. 760's are easy to change and not very expensive compared to inners and/or outers with broken ears. To me, the fusible link should be the joint.
 
If you don't want the weakest link to be the joint, then run them. 760's are easy to change and not very expensive compared to inners and/or outers with broken ears. To me, the fusible link should be the joint.


I'm going to disagree.

interferance.jpg


balljoint-seperation.jpg


For an extra $80 per side, I'd buy CTM's. There is no stronger joint, period.
 
I run the Yukon alloy shaft/Super Joint combo in mine. Pretty reasonably priced, haven't heard any negatives nor had any issues with mine.


And no, using the u-joint as some form of weak link is a bad idea. It's rare that you bust a u-joint and don't bend/break the shaft ears as well. Go with an aftermarket shaft/joint combo, carry your stockers as emergency spare assemblies.
 
Typically, when a joint breaks, it almost always messes a shaft (or both shafts) up somehow. I am sure there are many cases where this has not happened, but i am saying "typically"...

Build it with the Yukon joints and alloy shafts. It will be as "unbreakable as possible" then...
 
Get the superjoints and make sure you keep them greased well. There are no needle bearings or bushings, so if you don't keep them greased well, you'll chew up the trunnions. I'd go superjoint over the CTM's. Cheaper, and just as good in my opinion.
 
I don't think Super joints or ctms should be in anything without locking hubs that sees street use. I have super joints my comp buggy. (dana 60) And I have to grease them every other time out, or they start to make noise. Great joints and very strong.
 
yeah, i also agree that its a good idea to have a "fuseable link" and also thought why not a u-joint, cheap and easy to fix but one of my buddies had a locker and spit out a u-joint. there's no mercy on anything in the general area. ball joints, inner and outer shaft ears, all three hub bolts, pretty much everything. i'd like to avoid that ha ha. ring and pinion sucks but it's somewhat isolated failure. also, i should note that this is not a dd and i would have no trouble greasing them for every trip. i'd hate to buy chromo shafts that are way stronger than the u-joints. a weak joint is a weak shaft as far as i'm concerned. it would be too bad to have to replace shafts because of a joint failure, (lifetime warranty or not)...
 
If its not a DD Just take a set of 297 shafts and fully weld the ujoint in. I have broke 2 ring gears, 1 pinion input shaft, a cross shaft and a carrier, along with 2 inner shafts at the splines, but never a u joint, ears, or stub shaft. Now I am on to breaking 35 spline 60 crap.
 
with 33's i think stock shafts and some 760 spicer joints are plenty. I ran 36's for 2 years very hard and never had a shaft failure. I did go through 1 ring gear and one pinion though with 4.56 gears. My axle was trussed though, i think that helps a bit with deflection causes unseen issues.

But if you never plan on going bigger then 33's and will run the d30 till the vehicle dies cromo's and super joints are a good deal.

I will be running those in my d44 here soon.
 
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