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Buy a Factory Lift or Custom Components?

ridesdirt

NAXJA Forum User
Location
SC
I know, I know, I have searched and searched and cant find what I am looking for. I am sure this has been covered 100 times... but I have to ask again.

In your opinion, is it better to go with a factory lift kit, or piece parts together and build my own custom kit?

To answer you need to know what I plan on using it for: pretty much trails only, no deep mudding or rock crawling, basically like a hunt club type area with hills and creeks to cross, but want decent road manners, XJ will see 75% on trail and an occasional trip to town on blacktop. Looking to go 3-4.5" range. I think if I stick to 3-3.5" I can save some money by eliminating the SYE, and can still run 32 or maybe even 33" tires if I set up bump stops.

I am looking for value over just price, not interested in a budget boost. I want to do full springs front and back, monotube shocks, and correct any driveline vibes or steering woes.
I have already acquired a 8-1/4" rear end, spartan locker for the rear and posi-lok to deal with the center axle disconnect jibberish, may get front locker too.

If you did a custom lift that is close, please let me know what parts you used. TIA. Also, did you deal with a supporting vendor on this site?
 
What year? A pieced together lift will cost you less in the long run. I don't think there is any one vendor that's got it all perfect
 
After replacing every part of my "all in one" lift, I'd definitely piece it together. Here's what I'd get:

-Rubicon Express 3.5" rear leaf springs(usually give closer to 4.5" lift unless you have a lot of weight out back)
-Rubicon Express 3.5" coil springs(may need a small lift puck to level jeep)
-Any high quality adjustable lower control arms WITH flex joints.
-Adjustable double shear track bar/track bar bracket.
-ZJ tierod upgrade.
-extended sway bar links(drop brackets suck).
-extended brake lines all around.
-Bilstien 5100 shocks if the budget allows. Otherwise, most white body shocks will work, just gotta measure out your jeep to get the right size.
-Replace steering box spacer.

I'd install the rear locker but leave the front open, as I've driven that combo all over the country including snow and it handled well vs having a locker up front and the bad handling onroad. Definitely delete the CAD and get a 1 piece passenger shaft, and I'd make sure you're getting the larger 5-760x u joints on the newer XJ/TJ Dana 30s.



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If you don’t want to change control arms then go with the Arb kit 1.5 inch in front 3 inch in the rear complete replacement springs and shocks. You can probably use a spacer in the front to bring it up to 2.5 inch in the front. Cut the fenders use pocket flares and squeeze 32,s in. This is probably the best option and won’t cost a lot to do it with out changing the geometry a lot.
 
You did not include any details about the Jeep, so here are some XJ rules of thumb: 3 inches of lift will fit 31's with no fender trimming. Bigger tires will need sheetmetal trimming and/or a taller lift, and should have the axles re-geared. At about 3 inches of lift or more, an SYE is very strongly recommend.

Most lift kits, cheap out a bit on the accessories. Buy good quality springs and control arms and piece together the other parts. I prefer JKS swaybar disconnects, DT-3000 shocks, and IRO double shear track bars.

My 2000 has mostly Rubicon Express parts and my 1998 has a mixup of good used lift kit parts from the junkyard and swapping other XJ parts with guys in my local Jeep club.
 
Very good info, thank you, thank you. All this info is spread out on this site, but sure is nice when its in one spot.

XJ is a 91 with 289K miles. But is in excellent condition and zero rust.

So the front Dana 30 has the small u-joints. I have read the 2 piece axle really isn't a failure point, but when swapping to the bigger u-joint axles, those are one piece. I got that coming in the future. I'll skip the front locker for now.

I think I will go the custom route.
For springs I see OME rear springs seem to be the most liked RE okay too, RE front coils seem to have very good reviews. I'll look for sales and deals. I will research the rear shackle options, like adjustable location kit. And what do you think about the ACO coil mounts? I need to do a little research, but these may be ideal for getting level and bump stop adjustments.

Control arms, brand not too important, the joint is. I think should get upper and lower because of the miles on this Jeep, all the bushings and joints will be replaced.

Brake lines front and rear for sure

Track bar, I think adjustable is a good idea to get everything centered. Somebody explain the double shear to me? Is that a upper bracket that uses a "bucket" instead of a single stud mount? I need to do a little more research here.

Sway bar link, JKS appears to be the way to go, but honestly I dont think I "need" an extreme amount of articulation for my use, so I may just get extended/longer links and skip the disconnects. (if thats even an option)

Steering I need to learn some more about. I think the stock design will be fine with some minor upgrades like the ZJ tie rods and a stabilizer. Steering box spacer? I'll do some research. Maybe a brace kit?

Shocks, 5100s are for sure an option. They seem to be the best bang for the buck in a monotube.

More info to come... again thanks a ton for the input from everyone!
 
A few of my friends have taken out their ACOS, but it does help out leveling the jeep perfectly. I never really saw the value in it, as I just ended up tossing a 3/4 spacer on my front coils to level the jeep, and my rear was always changing due to tools, spares etc that might be carried at any given moment.

Double shear means it mounts in-between 2 tabs, like your control arms or the lower sway bar mount. The IRO track bar is a great buy as well as supporting a NAXJA sponsor. the Rubicon Express(the version with the flex joint, not the heim) is also a nice track bar, although usually a bit pricer. With any dual shear track bar, you'll have to replace the track bar bracket at the frame. It's also probably a good idea to drill out the axle side track bar mount to 1/2", as those holes tend to get wallowed out. I drilled mine out, as well as my UCA bolts to 1/2 for added security, and to make it easier to carry spare hardware.

The steering box spacer mounts in between the frame and the steering box, and stock they are aluminum and tend to crack, especially once you put bigger tires on. Swapping it out is pretty simple, and plenty of options out there. A steering box brace is always a good idea. A lot of companies make basic ones that tie from the passenger rail to the steering box, or if you want the ultimate bracing, Ironman4x4 makes an awesome brace that ties both frame rails, the steering box and the sector shaft on a pillow block so it's super solid.

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good info, thanks need-a-bow.

thats what I thought, I called it a "bucket" but yeah I understand, two tabs.

plan on ordering parts this week
 
If I were to look at a kit, I'd probably go with DPG :
https://dpgoffroad.com/

Piecing together gives some better options. Metal Cloak used to have a kit that was $$ but was suppose to be awesome. I believe the shocks and rear springs were OME. The front were Metal Cloak. They have a 3.5" dual rate, that is suppose to be excellent.

https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/

On control arms, I have JKS, Core and possibly Rough Country. The RC are only 1/16 sheet metal on the upper arms. JKS 3/16 and Core 1/4.
I do have a Rubicon Express Track Bar Bracket on a present build. It looks as good as any. I bought it to use the RE Track Bar brace they sell.
 
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yeah looking at the Iron Rock Kit, seems like a good option.

Their 3.5 full leaf pack gets good reviews. I went with OME rear springs. The newer OME rear springs are a dual rate. There is one leaf that is not in contact at normal loads. There is a bracket attached. So, when at a heavier load, that leaf add to the rate. I think Chevy Trucks have this type of spring. I haven't run mine yet. OME springs do not come with bushings. Bushing can be fun to install. I used MOPAR on mine. Not to bad to install. I am doing a 2" lift. I went with Crown Up Country 1.5" lift leafs. I had a difficult time installing the bushings. Sounds like you are leaning towards a 3-1/2 lift. There are more rear spring options vs a 2" lift.
The IRO 3.5" rear leafs are their own. I think other sizes are Rough Country. I have a set or RC rear leafs on a 4.5 lift. Not a fan. No anti friction pads. The IRO kit list it with adjustable control arms. Probably $300 min for that.
I also have the Ironman steering box brace, and a Boostwerks. About the same. I went with Kevin's Offroad brace for a less expensive option. I'm not sure what I'd go with for the under $100. Probably MORE.

https://ironman4x4fab.com/

Also, Raybestos and Wagner have 3-4" extended front brake lines for the XJ. For the rear possible a Dodge Dakota rear line.
 
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pulled the trigger on a Iron Rock 4" Premium Short Arm kit. Lots of good upgraded parts with decent reputation in the kit. Added a few upgrades. Hopefully it will be here in a couple weeks. Leaf packs are on back order right now...

After looking at all the options on parts I wanted, this kit checked off almost everything.
 
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