A/c Help

I believe my a/c for my 98 XJ needs to be recharged...

Is there a website that shows exactly what to do?

are there any recommendations?

TIA

Ray

1) did it ever have leak dye put in it?
2) if so black light it to chk for leaks. It shouldn't just go dry.
3) if leaking get it fixed
4) if not get one of those recharge kits from Wal-mart or someplace. Get the type with a separate hose where you attach a can of refrigerant. The ones with a built in hook up suck.
5) along with the refrigerant add some AC oil/lubricant. do this stuff first and also won't hurt to add leak dye.
6) chk a manual to figure out which hose is the low pressure hose and add the stuff at the valve on that hose. The cap unscrews.

How cheap you wanna go?

There is for sure a leak in the system if is low. Are you sure it is low? Even if the cost of the refrigerant is so cheap gauges connected would be great to see how things are actually performing. Need to find and repair the leak if is already low or will be an ongoing problem...and will probably get worse. Judd

actually...I am not sure it is low...but

it doesn't get cold...but will defog the windshield so I am assuming the compressor works.....is this correct??

Does the A/C compressor turn on when you set A/C on the temp controls?

There must be a minimum pressure for the compressor to even power-up its clutch (a safety against running it unlubricated)


You may wanna check that your hot-cold slider goes all the way to the "cold" mark (that year has a vacuum operated heater valve - not getting the slider all the way to cold still leaves hot-coolant circulating through your heater core -- the adjustment for travel is the cable seen above your passenger's left foot)

Once you've verified the proper travel in that slider - with the engine running at idle (generating vacuum) check under the hood to ensure that the vacuum valve is at least moving (you'll be able to see the actuator move the valve arm -- ithe heater valve's near the firewall kinda above the starter hanging on the heater hoses there) -- if you don't see motion check for vacuum on the line and proper operation of the vacuum actuator on the valve itself..

NOW with the thing out of the heating mode - you may wanna check the fill level of your sysem -- if it's factory, then you're still running R12 (hard to get cheap, thank congress and the EPA), since the minimum sale size for service is 30# and then only to licensed professionals, you may wanna consider a DIY job to convert to the not as regulated R134...

... kits for that conversion are at most aftermarket places -- ensure that, if you do convert, that the kit you purchase is 100% tollerant of your old system's contents - you should replace the dryer and all seals (I believe that most of the early conversion litterature recommended replacing every non-metalic part, then flushing the system befroe drawing a wicked-strong vacuum on the system to clear it all out), but I've seen favorable results with just a kit that directly mentions it's compatibility with previous oil and freon types...

good lord.....

thank you sir...

I am pretty sure the hot/cold temp dial works fine...
I'n gonna double check, follow advice....let you all know how it goes

thanks again

Several things-

First of all clamp off a heater hose to see if there is not a bleed of hot air that won't stop. But of course turn on the A/C and see if the compressor cycles at all...as has been said. Your '98 is R134a, so won't have to be converted. There are several things that can be wrong other than low on refrigerant. Is a process to the determination. Always worries me when recharging to just add more lube. The systems are designed for only so much, then reduced efficiency and/or can cause more problems. This is not a job to be taken too lightly. Quite a few things need to be accurately checked and repaired.

I have a leak at the evaporator in my 97 XJ-- gotta a $1200 est. from the stealership. They figured 10 hours labor, is this a joke or what!?

I just had AC work on my '98. It turned out to be the clutch on it had failed. Symptoms were that it would blow cold for about a half hour, then loose coolness all together. I would get a face full of damp muggy air....ughh! After a "cooling off" period for the clutch, the AC would blow cold again for the typical half hour period. Upon closer inspection with the AC switch on, it was obivious that the clutch just would not hold.

Repair cost was $400... roughly half for the part, half labor. Glad the tech did it because it did require some sort of gap setting and other adjusments. Oddly enough, the dealer is the ONLY place you can get a replacement clutch alone for it. All other places you have to purchase the complete compressor and clutch. Nobody sells only the clutch.

It seems to be working fine now cooling wise, except for the fact that it still cycles on and off quite a bit. Funny thing is that the charge is full, and all else seems to be working fine. I give it some time for hot weather to appear to give it a true test. Dealer gave me 12 month warranty repair on it, so at least I know they'll follow up if it acts up again.

Ivan