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What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Good to know! The bearing kit came in... and of course is wrong. Next week is a holiday so idk what I’m gonna do yet..


In other news here’s a pic of my latest speed bump smh

picture.php


Pic is of the alignment bolt on the new leaf packs... head diameter is to small for the 9” spring perch holes.. not really wanting to drill out the leafs for a bigger bolt. Thinking sleeve the hole on the perch? It’d be pretty thin tho.. or round some hex head bolts that fit into the leaf pack and use vice grips to score it after grinding it round to achieve the bite into the perch.


Really wanting to be done with this so path of least resistance is preferable... any easy fix y’all can think of?
 
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Loaded it on the trailer today after going to the dump and getting rid of 8 months project trash... found my engine noise after 4th will be replacing the busted exhaust header making my noise. Still need to do a few little things but they can be done when I get back in town for the weekend . I really only want to drive up to holy cross come in the middle where you exit and just drive straight to cleavland rock then head to Buena Vista if nothing breaks. I'm about 3 months behind my schedule as I got behind this winter so no hardcore trails for the next month until the little shit gets done directly...lol...like tape not holding up my ori resevoir on my passenger side,-)
 
Good to know! The bearing kit came in... and of course is wrong. Next week is a holiday so idk what I’m gonna do yet..


In other news here’s a pic of my latest speed bump smh

picture.php


Pic is of the alignment bolt on the new leaf packs... head diameter is to small for the 9” spring perch holes.. not really wanting to drill out the leafs for a bigger bolt. Thinking sleeve the hole on the perch? It’d be pretty thin tho.. or round some hex head bolts that fit into the leaf pack and use vice grips to score it after grinding it round to achieve the bite into the perch.


Really wanting to be done with this so path of least resistance is preferable... any easy fix y’all can think of?

Just bolt it on and go. It's really only there for alignment during assembly. Once the u bolts are properly tightened it should not move. There is not enough play in there to change any alignment angles.
 
Ok... I mean it doesn’t even touch anywhere idk if that pic does justice... I’ve read that the bolt is actually pretty important however... and people using bigger bolts due to snapping em and etc etc.. I’m not drilling out 16 or whatever leafs though I can tell ya that much!

You are probably right though, as long as it keeps the leafs tight it’s probably good.. I’ll likely rig something to get it snug tho, OCD n all
 
Thought about just tacking em in there... can’t find any logical reason why not... but still in the back of mind I tell myself that’s a dumb idea, don’t do it
 
Ok... I mean it doesn’t even touch anywhere idk if that pic does justice... I’ve read that the bolt is actually pretty important however... and people using bigger bolts due to snapping em and etc etc.. I’m not drilling out 16 or whatever leafs though I can tell ya that much!

You are probably right though, as long as it keeps the leafs tight it’s probably good.. I’ll likely rig something to get it snug tho, OCD n all

Thought about just tacking em in there... can’t find any logical reason why not... but still in the back of mind I tell myself that’s a dumb idea, don’t do it

Just bolt it on and go. It's really only there for alignment during assembly. Once the u bolts are properly tightened it should not move. There is not enough play in there to change any alignment angles.

1) Trippled fixes automobiles for a living, I trust his advise.
2) Tack what???
a) The springs are an alloy commonly referred to as "Spring Steel." Not
only are they an alloy, but they also go through a process of forming,
normalizing, and tempering. Don't mess with metallurgy.
b) U-bolts need to be re-torqued after a brief service period. They don't
need heat.
 
The centering pin in no way shape or form fits into the holes in the 9” perch... sure it’s millimeters of clearance but it doesn’t even touch any side much less have the right fit the springs I’m replacing had.

I’d either tac the bolt to the perch, sleeve it, or get bigger bolts.. they literally slide through like butter.

I too was a flat rate tech... the importance of the centering pin is well debated on Pirate and other places... a consensus is that it should fit right into the perch however. Even with the Ubolts tight, and yes tightened regularly, it can allow for the axle to move on the perch.. if the bolt isn’t snug it’ll probably sheer the bolt at some point I’d guess
 
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The centering pin in no way shape or form fits into the holes in the 9” perch... sure it’s millimeters of clearance but it doesn’t even touch any side much less have the right fit the springs I’m replacing had.

I’d either tac the bolt to the perch, sleeve it, or get bigger bolts.. they literally slide through like butter.

I too was a flat rate tech... the importance of the centering pin is well debated on Pirate and other places... a consensus is that it should fit right into the perch however. Even with the bolts tight, and yes tightened regularly, it can allow for the axle to move on the perch.. if the bolt isn’t snug it’ll probably sheer the bolt at some point I’d guess


What is that on the bottom edge of that perch ? ... it looks like boogers or cottage cheese being squished out . It's kinda where a weld would be ... ;-)
 
What is that on the bottom edge of that perch ? ... it looks like boogers or cottage cheese being squished out . It's kinda where a weld would be ... ;-)

I think I’d call it pigeon poop? Even though I know you are sooooo excited to take a jab at me, with love of course ;), those bullshit welds didn’t come from me boss!

They are structurally sound and I’ve added to where they are not.

Master welder I am not... but with a harbor freight flux core special I’m pretty solid.

Give me gas and a Lincoln and I’m the shizniz
 
I think I’d call it pigeon poop? Even though I know you are sooooo excited to take a jab at me, with love of course ;), those bullshit welds didn’t come from me boss!

They are structurally sound and I’ve added to where they are not.

Master welder I am not... but with a harbor freight flux core special I’m pretty solid.



Give me gas and a Lincoln and I’m the shizniz

Wasn't really a jab I just couldn't tell what it was because It didn't from the pic look to be up onto the side of the perch just under it like you just had them mocked up on an axle you didn't prep yet. I tend to start with a pretty weld then make 3 passes and then it looks like crap, but I just can't help to make multi passes .
 
Surrrreee... Im no snowflake man, you can talk crap- and I surely will too. Its actually better that way IMO.


But no. Not my welds.. Ive added some to where there was holes. Perch aint goin no where.

I sold my previous welder and now rely on a Chicago electric flux core.

It does alright tho! Im most happy with the heated center section cast iron to truss welds, but didnt get any pics before paint. Heres a pic of truss weld to spring perch up front. I was worried i was getting some under cutting at low settings... But I managed. Not as pretty as gas but I'm confident in the structural integrity.

picture.php
 
Surrrreee... Im no snowflake man, you can talk crap- and I surely will too. Its actually better that way IMO.


But no. Not my welds.. Ive added some to where there was holes. Perch aint goin no where.

I sold my previous welder and now rely on a Chicago electric flux core.

It does alright tho! Im most happy with the heated center section cast iron to truss welds, but didnt get any pics before paint. Heres a pic of truss weld to spring perch up front. I was worried i was getting some under cutting at low settings... But I managed. Not as pretty as gas but I'm confident in the structural integrity.

picture.php

What fluxcore hobo do you have I had bought the 125 to see how the inverter would run off a generator . It seems to weld well the guns are Tewco guns which are nasi my HTP as I found out when talking to HTP and remarked how the HTP consumables fit the gun perfectly.

I need to pick up about 25ft of 4g cable from Lowe's or home depot and to make a welding set up for on trail ...they sell this pre made but no way am I giving up almost $300 for $60 in parts.
 
Got my junk back to driveable and engine fixed again. Hoping this one last longer than 10k. Put the lunchbox in and been poking around some local trails. Hindsight maybe should have just left it open because it's noisy AF on the street, but offroad is great having traction.

Look at that sweet flex.....
4Lojpbal.jpg
 
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The centering pin in no way shape or form fits into the holes in the 9” perch... sure it’s millimeters of clearance but it doesn’t even touch any side much less have the right fit the springs I’m replacing had.

I’d either tac the bolt to the perch, sleeve it, or get bigger bolts.. they literally slide through like butter.

I too was a flat rate tech... the importance of the centering pin is well debated on Pirate and other places... a consensus is that it should fit right into the perch however. Even with the Ubolts tight, and yes tightened regularly, it can allow for the axle to move on the perch.. if the bolt isn’t snug it’ll probably sheer the bolt at some point I’d guess

That .030 of play is not likely to cause immediate shearing of the pin. Every center pin failure I've seen was caused by loose u bolts. The center pin is a soft grade bolt, as in, not grade 8. Merely there for alignment and I no way would I assume it's structural or there to keep the axle in place. It will deform before it shears. If you can still shift the axle between the perch and spring you need bigger u bolts that you can get tighter.
 
The center pin is a soft grade bolt, as in, not grade 8. Merely there for alignment and I no way would I assume it's structural or there to keep the axle in place. It will deform before it shears.
I wondered about that! Last time I bought "centering pins" from Denver Spring & Suspension, they did not look that special. Last time I had to work on my spring pack, I went to the local hardware and bought a couple (grade 8) cap screws. I don't remember checking to see if the heads would fit my stock axle perch, I do remember having to drill a couple stock leaves to fit the aftermarket spring pack. For not checking too much, I seem to be doing OK.

attachment.php
 
I wondered about that! Last time I bought "centering pins" from Denver Spring & Suspension, they did not look that special. Last time I had to work on my spring pack, I went to the local hardware and bought a couple (grade 8) cap screws. I don't remember checking to see if the heads would fit my stock axle perch, I do remember having to drill a couple stock leaves to fit the aftermarket spring pack. For not checking too much, I seem to be doing OK.

attachment.php

Yea that works! In a pinch I used a grade 8 bolt I had around and ground the head down to a somewhat circular shape. It was still on there when I swapped the springs out. FWIW I had some old pins I came across yesterday that for some reason are metric but rated 8.8, basically a grade 5 bolt.
 
What fluxcore hobo do you have I had bought the 125 to see how the inverter would run off a generator . It seems to weld well the guns are Tewco guns which are nasi my HTP as I found out when talking to HTP and remarked how the HTP consumables fit the gun perfectly.

I need to pick up about 25ft of 4g cable from Lowe's or home depot and to make a welding set up for on trail ...they sell this pre made but no way am I giving up almost $300 for $60 in parts.

It’s an older (better) model, Mig 180. For a pawnshop special I’ve been pretty pleased with it.

I was able to get a deal on about 20ft of cable from Lowe’s. It was in the discount pile (already cut from the spoil) or what ever and the guy wanted to charge full price... I went full Karen on him and had his boss sell it to me for pennies on the dollar.
 
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