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Where to get a 60 shaft cut and re-splined??

Safari Ary

Safari Ary

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Virginia Beach, VA
Gonna be narrowing a Dana 60 for my rear-end over break and need to know where I can send the longside shaft to be cut and re-splined so that I can put this pig under the Jeep after I'm done narrowing. Any suggestions?? Local types of places would be good(i.e. what kind of shop can do this), but names of specific shops works too.

Sean(oneton) can you do this?

Thanks

Ary
 
Dutchman and Moser will both do it. I don't know of any places that will re-heat treat after cutting the splines, though. The newly cut splines will be down to the softer "core" of the shaft rather than in the heat treated zone.

How old are these things? Wouldn't you feel better on shiny new shafts that are heat treated deeper than stock and you don't have to worry about narrowing?

CRASH
 
CRASH said:
Dutchman and Moser will both do it. I don't know of any places that will re-heat treat after cutting the splines, though. The newly cut splines will be down to the softer "core" of the shaft rather than in the heat treated zone.

How old are these things? Wouldn't you feel better on shiny new shafts that are heat treated deeper than stock and you don't have to worry about narrowing?

CRASH
Click to expand...

Yes, but my pocket book wouldn't. Where would you suggest I go to get D60 shafts from a HD J-truck(3 or 4000, can't remember). They're 35-spline, SF, non-c-clip, non-tapered 1.50" shafts. I'm being totally serious. PIG on PBB wants 525 for superiors which is WAY out of my budget and holly unneccesary for 35s IMHO. Thanks

Ary
 
I bet you could get them from Dutchmann for $350, with bearings installed.

35 spline stuff is a little more, so not positive on the price.

Call them, they'll be happy to talk you into a set. Or, they'll be happy to re-spline your old stuff.

Have a tape measure handy.

CRASH
 
ary, I'm in the process of this now....

having it done locally......the cutting shouldn't be the problem.

but I'm curious, maybe crash can share.....

what is the proper method to harden?

to I have to post harden a shaft that's already hardened?

if so how?

don't heat-treaters need a "recipe" so-to-speak? what do they need to know so you don't pay them to make your axle shafts brittle?
 
A friend of mine does it here in town for $40 each. I haven't ever seen or heard of any of the shafts he cut failing at the splines. They have failed close to the cuts, but not on them. Maybe the diffenece is how much of the splines are exposed to the outside of the side gears. ?????

Personally I wouldn't worry about cutting the splines. I've changed out a bunch of truck axles and all but a few of them were not heat treated after the splines were cut.
 
Basically, for our kind of application, you want an induction hardened shaft. This process uses an electrical current to heat the surface of the shaft, down about .3 inches, and leaves the core "soft".

If your asking about the cool down bath, I've got no idea, but it's usually an oil bath kept at X temperature for a certain amount of time.

I'm sure I've not added anything that you didn't already know. I would say you need to find someone that knows what the hell they are doing, not some wrong coaster spewing tidbits of common knowledge on the internet.

CRASH

Beezil said:
ary, I'm in the process of this now....

having it done locally......the cutting shouldn't be the problem.

but I'm curious, maybe crash can share.....

what is the proper method to harden?

to I have to post harden a shaft that's already hardened?

if so how?

don't heat-treaters need a "recipe" so-to-speak? what do they need to know so you don't pay them to make your axle shafts brittle?
Click to expand...
 
Currie will also cut and re-spline for $50/shaft. Ask them how many returns they've had for twisted splines? Not many. Ask them how many 35 spline returns they've had - probably none at all.

These are 35 spline shafts, you don't need to worry about this heat treat/soft core mumbo jumbo that CRASH is talking about. :wave:
 
Ary, we can do it as well....Will has been doing this for quite some time.
 
Last edited:
Beezil said:
c-rok and toz....

what's your take on post-hardening....
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I can offer no educated opinion.

I can offer speculation and guess if that's of any value to you.

I would possibly consider doing a complete anneal of the shaft and re-heat treating the entire shaft rather than trying to re-treat just the re-splined end. I could envision some inconsistancies in material properties between the original treat and post treat areas. That could result in an interface point that has potential to become a fracture site.

But metalurgy is far from an area of my expertise and my mat sci schooling goes back about 15 years now so that's just my virtually value-less guess.
 
Although I would recomend buying new shafts we have cut splines using a lathe & cutter. The splines haven't failed yet & show no sign of twist. How are you guys cutting the splines? We chocked the axle up in the lathe & using the old splines has a guide, cut the splines back to the point we needed it narrowed to. Once all the splines were cut you just cut off the amount of shaft not needed.

Matt
 
Beezil said:
c-rok and toz....

what's your take on post-hardening....
Click to expand...

I'll be straight, will just cut and resplined them...no post-hardening. They've been Abused like no XJ can....Grant's running a BUILT 350 and 40's on his 8
and Will is running 44's with an injected 454...

Both these guys WAIL on their stuff....no finesse with 44's and a big block ;) and have ZERO issues with the splines.

47.JPG


39369720.jpg
 
ary, forgive me if I am guilty of thread theft....I'm hoping my questions are helping you as well.

all: maybe I shoulda mentioned...what would you do with a warn shaft? crash, you say induction hardening affects the outtermost .3"....

assuming I am merely machining away the splines on a new (already hardened) section of shaft, if my machining process does not generate a lot of heat, it doesn't make sense to me that i would have to anneal and re-harden....

is this a correct assumption?

my usual reliable sources are telling me that i would not have to.
 
;) not unless you're running jet propulsion

Working with Will has opened my eyes the last few months guys....
 
Beez, no worries, glad my question could spark a useful discussion.

Ary
 
Beez, my personal experience was with shortened and re-spline front D44 shafts.

I never had a problem with the splines failing and that was on a 38" shod Scrambler. Granted I did drive it gentler then my current style but did work it enough to stretch both front yokes and the same axle has since gone through 2 u-joints and yokes.... so it's obviously withstanding up to the other "weak-link" limit of the shaft.

I was teasing CRASH but seriously on a 35 spline shaft you worries are done. Period.
Now if you're stilling planning on running disguised 44 shafts in your 60...... well, that's another story.
 
Beez, a Warn shaft is through hardemed, there is no "soft part". The process for through hardening is different than for an induction hardened shaft.

You will have no trouble cutting splines into a through hardened shaft.

CRASH
 
inductio hardening is too hard IMO and makes the axles brittle. Austentempering is the way to go. The tensile stregths froma Austentempered parts are amazing but it's doesn't make the shafts as hard as induction hardening does. About 48 RC.

I would imagine that trying to cut splines on a already hardened piece of steel is going to be a PIA anyways and will heat up pretty good. Will it heat up enough to mess up the heat treatment? I don't know.

And while we are talking about spline strength rolled are stronger then cut, but rolled cost more money.

Tozovr, how many shafts do those guys go through?
 
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