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busted stud on the manifold

Kejtar

Kejtar

PostMaster General
NAXJA Member
Location
Westminster, SoCal
OK, how to deal with that? The last rear one broke off inside the block and from the looks of it it was just a defective stud :( Short of drilling out any other ways to pull it out?
 
if theres enough of it sticking out you can weld a nut onto it. otherwise you will probly have to drill it out. i dotn recall exactly how much room is back there on the last stud, but good luck fitting a drill in there
 
Fine - but when you get it out, cut a new one from 3/8"-16 allthread, in brass. Should be able to get that at the hardware store (Orchard's carries it, I've gotten it there) and that will give you far less trouble.

You should be able to get 3/8" UNC brass nuts while you're there - it's just too bad you can't get 3/8"-16 brass hex head capscrews while you're about it (they've got machine screws, but you need to be able to put a wrench to them.)

I have found the use of brass hardware on exhaust systems to be most helpful in the last 25 years or so - mainly becasue brass won't seize to steel or iron...

5-90
 
Acually it happens from the exaust manifold warping and breaking the bolt, check your manifold for cracks. Its very common for the rear and front studs Ive done about a hundred of em usually I replace the manifold. the best way to get them out is to remover the intake and exaust manifold and with a cut off wheel cut a slice in the bolt your gonna slice the head a little but dont worry about it then take a torch and heat the head around the bolt use a flathead screwdriver or a flathead bit for a ratchet and un screw. since the bolts break from being pulled apart and not being stuck they usually come out pretty easy I'v even broke them loose with a pick and spun them out by hand. It sucks to have to drill them out, and you need a 90 degree drill and a good (cobalt) bit and if you break the bit or the tap off in the head then you have to pull the head
 
Wezil said:
Acually it happens from the exaust manifold warping and breaking the bolt, check your manifold for cracks. Its very common for the rear and front studs Ive done about a hundred of em usually I replace the manifold. the best way to get them out is to remover the intake and exaust manifold and with a cut off wheel cut a slice in the bolt your gonna slice the head a little but dont worry about it then take a torch and heat the head around the bolt use a flathead screwdriver or a flathead bit for a ratchet and un screw. since the bolts break from being pulled apart and not being stuck they usually come out pretty easy I'v even broke them loose with a pick and spun them out by hand. It sucks to have to drill them out, and you need a 90 degree drill and a good (cobalt) bit and if you break the bit or the tap off in the head then you have to pull the head
Click to expand...

That sounds alot like cheating. Make Remi bust out the drill. :D
 
i think taking the head off is the way to go. while your at it you can adjust your valves and replace your spark plugs and such :)
 
stupidfast said:
if theres enough of it sticking out you can weld a nut onto it. otherwise you will probly have to drill it out. i dotn recall exactly how much room is back there on the last stud, but good luck fitting a drill in there
Click to expand...
it broke of INSIDE! The piece that came out shows a clearly visible rusty crack and there was less then 1mmx2mm holding the two pieces together.
 
I am in the process of doing this right now. I drilled out the stud with a 90 deg right angle drill and a selection of cobalt drills (actually went reasonably smooth). Make sure you start right in the middle. i got it drilled all the way through the stud and was able to put a cutting fluid I like behind the stud.

Then I managed to break the EZ out off in the stud (trying to get at the handle without applying too much offset torque is VERY difficult.

I have not cut a notch with a cut off disk and will attmept to heat the head and spin it out. I trid useing a punch to spin it out and that has not worked for me yet. I also tried to smash the EZ out and/or punch it through, no luck.

Best of luck and let us know how it works for you!!

Michael
 
I think it will be a 90 degree drill (got one of those a while ago and damn it came in handy on more than one occassion).
Hopefully I will be done by Monday: this jeep needs to get registered and smogged!
2xtreme said:
I am in the process of doing this right now. I drilled out the stud with a 90 deg right angle drill and a selection of cobalt drills (actually went reasonably smooth). Make sure you start right in the middle. i got it drilled all the way through the stud and was able to put a cutting fluid I like behind the stud.

Then I managed to break the EZ out off in the stud (trying to get at the handle without applying too much offset torque is VERY difficult.

I have not cut a notch with a cut off disk and will attmept to heat the head and spin it out. I trid useing a punch to spin it out and that has not worked for me yet. I also tried to smash the EZ out and/or punch it through, no luck.

Best of luck and let us know how it works for you!!

Michael
Click to expand...
 
Question: does it have to be replaced with a stud? or can it be a bolt? Does it have to be same depth as the stud was? or could it be same size (length) as one of the other bolts?
 
It was EASY (or so my dad says, since he removed the broken stud from his jeep himself). He started drilling it out, realized the hole went off center, he cussed and threaded it out by tapping at the ridge with a punch in the right direction :D
 
Kejtar said:
Question: does it have to be replaced with a stud? or can it be a bolt? Does it have to be same depth as the stud was? or could it be same size (length) as one of the other bolts?
Click to expand...
It may need to be a stud because theres not room to get a bold in bolt.
It does hold the gasket in line also.
 
I have a 93 cherokee THAT HAS no MANIFOLD STUD IN THE BACK.. BE RUNNIN THE JEEP THIS WAY FOR ABOUT A MONTH NOW.. The jeep runs ok and only make a hissing and chirping noise like a bad belt.. only before its warmed up.. when shes warmed up it seals and no noise..I wouldnt reccomend it but i got the jeep for 250 bucks and am just driving it in the winter..When it snapped i was going to drill it out.. i didnt have the time or patience so i left it...its probally going to get real loud in a month or so..
 
Kejtar said:
Question: does it have to be replaced with a stud? or can it be a bolt? Does it have to be same depth as the stud was? or could it be same size (length) as one of the other bolts?
Click to expand...

It's perfectly acceptable to use a screw there - the reason for the stud is service convenience (you can hang the exhaust manifold on the studs, start the nuts, then put the intake in place using both hands.)
 
Pulling the engine from my XJ for transplant into my son's YJ.. he busted the rear stud.

I'd rather not use an easy out and bust it inside. Gonna try tapping it around enough to get vicegrips or something to finish pulling it.

I'll have the luxory of having the engine out when fixing this.. if i have to drill it would using a reverse drill bit be of any advantage? Any other suggestions?

TIA..
 
If you're lucky, the reverse drill bit might "catch" it and spin it right out.
 
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