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Ideas? Feedback? Words of wisdom welcomed

Darky

NAXJA Forum User
Location
29 Palms, CA
Just the ideas of a novice in the world of modifying XJs. What's worked for you in the past? What are you running now? Who has been a good supplier? I welcome all feedback and ideas. Now here's my "master plan":
1.Rubicon Express 4.5" lift
2.32x12.5" tires-haven't decided on a brand, maybe TSL/SXs or BFGoodrich Mud/Terrains
3.4.11 gears (maybe swap in Rubicon axles if possible and can find cheap)
4.4.6L stroker or small block V8 swap
5.ARB Bull Bar
6.Warn Rear bumper w/spare tire carrier, hi-lift mount, and gerry can mount
7.8000-9000# winches f/r
8.Roof rack/basket
9.lights on Bull Bar
10.Detroit rear/ARB front lockers
11.Rock rails, full skid plates, possible exo cage(?)
I have a 96 Sport 4 dr with the Corporate 8.25 rear and Dana 30 front, AW4 auto, 4.0. Its completely stock right now except for a K&N drop in filter and black steel wheels with Michelin LTX LT235/75R15s.
 
BlackSport96 said:
maybe TSL/SXs or BFGoodrich Mud/Terrains

will you drive on pavement much? SXs are great tires, but they are heavy and bias-ply, i wouldn't run them if you drive a lot on pavement. BFG MTs are great for daily drivers though.

BlackSport96 said:
4.11 gears (maybe swap in Rubicon axles if possible and can find cheap)

Rubicon rear 44 will probably be woorth a lot to a TJ owner, since it's already set-up for coils. you'de be better off selling it and finding an XJ Dana 44

BlackSport96 said:
8000-9000# winches f/r

why rear winch?
 
yeah, I'll spend a lot of time on pavement, this is my daily driver. I was looking at a rear winch just to give plenty of options on extraction/recovery. Just in case a friend gets stuck behind me, or it wouldn't be wise to winch forwards. The type of thing where I probably won't need it ever but if I do, it'd be great to have it.
 
BlackSport96 said:
Just the ideas of a novice in the world of modifying XJs. What's worked for you in the past? What are you running now? Who has been a good supplier? I welcome all feedback and ideas. Now here's my "master plan":
1.Rubicon Express 4.5" lift
Good choice, RE6130 is very complete but you're going to want an SYE and rear driveshaft as well as probably upgrading the trackbar and ditching the RE swaybar disconnects. Upgrade those to JKS discos, and probably add an adjustable set of control arms. get credit for removing the t-case drop from the order.
2.32x12.5" tires-haven't decided on a brand, maybe TSL/SXs or BFGoodrich Mud/Terrains
Good size choice with that lift; what do you plan to do with it? What width and backspace rims are you planning to use? I'm running 15x7 AR767s with 4" BS.
3.4.11 gears (maybe swap in Rubicon axles if possible and can find cheap)
Might be a bit higher geared than you want with 32s. You're already running 3.55 so 4.10 isn't a major reduction. Rubicon axles will have the locker included, but like dennisuello pointed out, the rear axle is built for coils, so you'll have to cut those and put leaf spring pads on. In the front the Rubi uses a low-pinion axle, so it loses a bit of strength over a hi-pinion D44; the strength numbers are apparently pretty comparable between HP D30 and LP D44s. Since your D30 already shares most of the outer parts as the Rubi D44 I don't know that I'd recommend that route.
10.Detroit rear/ARB front lockers
Just another reason to go another route than the Rubi axles if you aren't going to use their lockers.
11.Rock rails, full skid plates, possible exo cage(?)
Good choices.
 
4.10's will be noticeable for a week and then u will wish u went lower. I say go 4.56's for your situation, but if u plan on going larger in the future then 4.88 will be a one time deal, but it will be too low for a DD on 32's. I nominate 4.56 for your situation
 
I have a set of 15" wheels right now, I'm not sure of the width, I'd say maybe 7 or 8" wide based on the amount of sidewall bulge on the 235s. I'll have to check with the tire shop I got them from. I usually play in the sand or on the rocks. A little bit of mud here and there but never too deep or thick. I'm in SoCal, so that's bout all we got. The only other place I'd be seeing any off-road time is AZ so again, mostly sand and rocks. I like the little bit of axtra width compared to 10.5s for flotation in sand and traction (plus it looks cool) but its not so wide or tall that they'd be causing too many problems when flexing and such.
 
BlackSport96 said:
Just the ideas of a novice in the world of modifying XJs. What's worked for you in the past? What are you running now? Who has been a good supplier? I welcome all feedback and ideas. Now here's my "master plan":
1.Rubicon Express 4.5" lift
2.32x12.5" tires-haven't decided on a brand, maybe TSL/SXs or BFGoodrich Mud/Terrains
3.4.11 gears (maybe swap in Rubicon axles if possible and can find cheap)
4.4.6L stroker or small block V8 swap
5.ARB Bull Bar
6.Warn Rear bumper w/spare tire carrier, hi-lift mount, and gerry can mount
7.8000-9000# winches f/r
8.Roof rack/basket
9.lights on Bull Bar
10.Detroit rear/ARB front lockers
11.Rock rails, full skid plates, possible exo cage(?)
I have a 96 Sport 4 dr with the Corporate 8.25 rear and Dana 30 front, AW4 auto, 4.0. Its completely stock right now except for a K&N drop in filter and black steel wheels with Michelin LTX LT235/75R15s.

Well, mechanically, you are looking at running my rig, or very similar.

The RE 4.5 is great lift, the above suggestions regarding track bar, disconnects and SYE are appropriate, although I have had no real issues with the 1600 track bar - it took over 3 years to wear out a heim...

If you're daily driving, get the BFG muds - I got over 70k out of my last set... they seem to wear incredibly well on a light rig like an XJ, and are very good on and off road tires (sipe em if you live in snow country)

As said above - go 4.56, you will wish you had with your AW4. I run 3.73's with a 5 spd and wish I had 4.11. I would think you can stick with your stock axles for what you plan to do. Your 8.25 is 29 spline and almost comparable to a D44, and the front is a HP30, so it is of similar strength to the rubi D44 (low pinion) -- I see no benefit to a rubi axle swap other than the lockers, and you can do that cheaper along with your gear swap - your ARB/Detroit plan is solid.

I have 4.6 stroker, accurate power components. WAAAYYY easier than a V8 swap, and comparable power. I still get close to 20 MPG as well - awsome mod.

Shop around for your bumpers and skids, you can do alot cheaper than ARB and get comparable results. www.rigidco.com looks pretty good.

I don't currently have a winch, as most of the guys I wheel with do. That is kindof what you have to consider when choosing what size winch -- will I use it more for self recovery (8K will do), or am I pulling out fullsize vehicles buried axle deep in muck...?

All and all it looks like a good plan -- I've been very pleased with my 4.6, D44 rear, 32's for mixed use. Good luck.
 
quick question, what exactly is a slip yoke eliminator? What does it do? I hear about them a lot, but don't know what it is. Also what would I be adjusting with the adjustable control arms, what is the benefit? And last one, (not so quick I guess) what about the T-case drop kit, does that adjust the driveline angles? I've heard a lot from people saying that's necessary. I lied, I have one more, about the rear driveshaft...from what I know, that can get to be rather expensive. Is it necessary or will I be ok if I wait on it?
 
BlackSport96 said:
quick question, what exactly is a slip yoke eliminator? What does it do? I hear about them a lot, but don't know what it is. Also what would I be adjusting with the adjustable control arms, what is the benefit? And last one, (not so quick I guess) what about the T-case drop kit, does that adjust the driveline angles? I've heard a lot from people saying that's necessary. I lied, I have one more, about the rear driveshaft...from what I know, that can get to be rather expensive. Is it necessary or will I be ok if I wait on it?

A Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) takes the stock setup, where rear driveline movement during suspension travel is absorbed at the output yoke of the transfer case, and makes that a "fixed yoke". When installing an SYE, you must also install a new driveshaft,w/a slip joint in the shaft. The purpose of an SYE is twofold (1) it helps eliminate vibrations associated with lifts and changing driveline angles (but only when the pinion angle at the rear axle is properly adjusted to point directly at the t-case. i.e. shims are in order), and (2) in improves the strength of the 231/242 t-case, as they come from the factory with ridiculously long output shafts, putting alot of torque and weight stress on the shaft. You can pick up a HD SYE and shaft from Tom Woods for around $500.00 shipped - can't beat his customer service.

The good news is, with the SYE, you don't need the t-case drop, as its purpose is to be the cheapy fix for driveline vibes...
 
xj-grin said:
The good news is, with the SYE, you don't need the t-case drop, as its purpose is to be the cheapy fix for driveline vibes...
You beat me to it. That's why I recommended deleting the t-case drop for credit; overall the plan is very similar to my 96 as well, and I'd strongly recommend the SYE with that lift; the odds of getting vibes from the lift are very high.
 
Yucca Man, what'd you think of your time in the Corps? I'm active right now, about to get out in a year, but its been a good time for me. I may have to delay my lift plans a little longer than originally thought, but I appreciate the advice folks. Wanna do it right.
 
Ok, here's an update, I'm still poor but have a set of 30"x9.5" M/Ts sitting in my back yard (thanks Matt :D). I can't afford an actual lift anytime soon, so I'm thinking of getting a 2" Rocky Road BB to tide me over and allow me to fit those tires. I may wait on the lockers also and save for twin ARBs, since I might move to somewhere involving snow and have been told lockers are scary in the snow. Will adjustable arms allow me to correct the CA length for an extra 2" on the RE6130, or should I just find a way to adapt it to fit my wife's Nissan once I get the real lift.
 
Do you have tow points, tow strap(s), skid plates, rock rails, a fire extinguisher, a first aid kit, and some tools?
If you don't, get those and hit the trails to get some seat time. No need to waste money for a little lift right now when you are going to want more later. I wheeled my Jeep while it was stock(with the above mods and 30" tires) for a year untill I finally bought a lift for it.
 
right now all I got for tow points is my hitch on the rear. I have the "unsafe" straps (metal hooks), a first aid kit, some tools but always adding more as I find them, no protection yet or fire extinguisher. My old Samurai had one, but it was a little disposable kind that had long gone dry...
 
I agree with Jes, get your XJ out on the trail before spending a lot of money. Tow points and recovery equipment are absolute musts. Everyone gets stuck from time to time but you want to make certain it is easy to safely get you unstuck.

Armor is always a good investment. I ran my XJ on all kinds of trails in Virginia and North Carolina with a sagging stock suspension and plenty of armor. Two years of wheeling it stock and it still looks as good as when I bought it. You will be surprised where a stock XJ can go. My rock rails and bumpers have paid for themselves many times over.

Also, I strongly recommend finding a local off-roading club to wheel with. It will give you a chance to learn from more experienced people and see how differantly equiped vehicles perform.

-Brian


Jes said:
Do you have tow points, tow strap(s), skid plates, rock rails, a fire extinguisher, a first aid kit, and some tools?
If you don't, get those and hit the trails to get some seat time. No need to waste money for a little lift right now when you are going to want more later. I wheeled my Jeep while it was stock(with the above mods and 30" tires) for a year untill I finally bought a lift for it.
 
I've already been impressed by my XJ's abilities compared to the other vehicles I've owned and wheeled. My Tracker was an awesome all-around stocker, small and light for rock crawling, its 0 wheelbase made up for ground clearance in many places and the Trooper did good until you hit sand. My Trooper had decent articulation, bout what my XJ has, but its approach and dep angles sucked. My Cherokee blows them both away though. Didn't think it could compare to the Tracker in the sand, but its not much heavier with fatter tires and a LOT more power. However, I think rocker guards will be added ASAP. That was a problem once on my Tracker and the door never quite shut right again. :D Again, thanks for your help, this is why I joined NAXJA
 
BlackSport96 said:
7.8000-9000# winches f/r
if you are getting bumpers... get recievers in them
and get a reciever kit for your SINGLE winch...

dennisuello said:
why rear winch?
Because Some times you gotta go both ways! lastara? no just :laugh2:
 
muduck18 said:
if you are getting bumpers... get recievers in them
and get a reciever kit for your SINGLE winch...

To each his own...but I sure as hell wouldn't want to kill my approach/departure angles with a multi-mount, NOR lug that damned winch around.
 
I guess it depends on how much you get stuck. I want to be able to go both ways. the only way that it's going to kill app/depp is if you leave it in all the time... not part of the plan. when do you need the winch? when your stuck soo stick it on the end that you need to go.
I don't plan on getting stuck but i do plan on having it there for when i do.
I hear you about lugging it around.... but then again if its fixed any time you are not stuck you have a $700 winch on there doing nothing but getting dirty and in banging around and you can only go one way with it.
to each his own.. yup I love The US!!!
are we off topic? sorry I forgot where I was...
 
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