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Replacing Seals - long winded question

Kevin

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Richmond, VA
My searches do not seem to be yielding the results I am hoping for ..... and as I read this I think I'm starting to sound really stupid, but here goes....

I have a 95 with the HO 4.0L engine, pushing 175,000 miles.

What started as a simple power steering hose replacement has snowballed into a radiator and all radiator/heating hoses replacement. I've been debating the rear main seal and front main seal replacements for a while now, (tired of the heep spotting the garage floor) so I figured as long as the radiator was out, I thought I might as well be ready to replace the front main seal. Figured, while I was at it, I would replace the rear main seal and then also heard that if I did those 2 seals, I might as well do the timing cover to block seal and the oil pan seal.

Well, I'd end up doing the oil pan seal by default when I did the rear main seal, so not a big deal there. I'm assuming this is just the gasket.

I can't seem to find any good write ups that describe the process for the Front Main Seal (also called the Timing Cover Seal?) or the Timing Cover to Block Seal. Seems like these are all related and my terms may be incorrect. Seen a few good write ups for the rear main seal (and effectively the oil pan seal/gasket), so I'm covered there.

95 FSM has references to:
Seal Replacement-Timing Case Cover Oil Seal
Seals, Rear Main Oil

It looks like the front main seal (AKA the crankshaft oil seal in the FSM?) can be replaced without removing the timing case cover, but if the timing case cover seal is leaking, it would probably be easier to do the front main seal with the cover off?

Anyone have a write up for the front main seal (or whatever it is called)?
 
UPDATE - So between the Haynes manual and the FSM, I thinnk I have this figured out.

I've got the radiatior out, that was pretty straight forward.

Trying to remove the harmonic balancer, have the HB removal tool, but the HB spins when I torque on the removal tool. Do I need to employ a pry bar to prevent spinning similar to how the reatining bolt gets removed? This briliant idea came to me after I called it quits tonight.
 
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