It isn't that hard, but unless you do a real low-budget "shade tree" rebuild you can't avoid the shop. At a minimum, you would need a ridge reamer, ring compressor, ring expander (or you can have a shop install the rings on the pistons and hope they do it right), a feeler gauge, and a torque wrench. Oh, yeah -- and an engine hoist and an engine stand.
After the engine has been disassembled, you should send the block and the head to a shop. Both should be hot tanked for cleaning. Both should have their mating surfaces checked for flatness and be shaved if they are not flat. The cylinders should be miked for both taper and out-of-round. If they are out of spec, they should be bored to a standard oversize (0.020, 0.030, etc.). Once you bore, you must replace the pistons.
If the pistons will be replaced, you need the shop to press the old pistons off the rods and to press the new pistons on. The shop should also install new camshaft bearins. It's up to you if you have them install new freeze plugs or if you do it yourself.
The shop should also check the valve guides, and either knurl them if slightly worn, or bore out and sleeve if badly worn. Then they can do a valve job. If you plan to do any porting or polishing inside the head, do it before sending the head to the shop.
Then everything comes back to you, and you get to assemble it all. For that, the Factory Service Manual is your friend.