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Need step by step for replacing radiator.

Dexter

NAXJA Forum User
Well I guess my radiator is shot on my 93XJ and I need to replace it. I just don't know how. Can anyone walk me through step by step what needs to be done.

Also while I am at it I was advised to replace the thermostat, is there anything else I should replace while I am in there?

Thanks in advance.
-Josh

BTW, I am getting a Modine 2 Row for $103, is that a good deal?
 
To replace the rad. pull the lower hose and let the coolant out. Disconnect the upper hose. Remove the fan shroud and electric fan. Unbolt the four/five bolts on the top of the rad, and remove the support. The rad will come out, install is the reverse.
To change the t-stat. This is the time to do it with the fluid being out and all. The t-stat housing is on the front of the engine block right below the valve cover. Unbolt it and the hoses. Remove the gasket and install the t-stat and a new gastet. A few bucks for the both at the parts store. I would get a direct replacement for the stat from the dealer.
I have a CSW 3 row in mine that I paid 150 for. dpgoffroad.com
has them. Check it out. 3 is better than 2 when offroading and sitting in traffic on a hot summer day.
Hope that helps, Juice
 
One more thing I didnt see mentioned(I replaced mine a few months ago) was the automatic transmission lines. For these one of them has a nylon retaining thing. You can get them form either the dealer or from NAPA. They are the same as the fuel line retaining connections.

I agree that you should go with the 3-core. Theyre not that much more. When I did mine I went ahead and replaced the fan clutch water pump, hoses, serp belt and thermostat(This should be a dealer only item as there is a small check valve in it, which should be at the 12 o'clock position) The reason why I replaced these items is with the radiator out, it makes it LOADS easier. Plus they say the fan clutch should be reaplced when the vehicle get higher miles on it.
 
Dexter,

If you are going to be working on your Jeep, buy a repair manual. They are not expensive and contain very detailed instructions including pictures. They are also more definitive than what you may get on the internet as advice on the internet is often erroneous (not talking about the present advice). Chilton's and Haynes manuals are found in most auto parts stores and are adequate for most repairs.

RR3
 
also..depending if you live in a rust prone area or not...soak the trans clooer lines with PB blaster or your favorite rust breaker before hand.

nothing worse than twisting one of them off and having to replace or flare a line.
 
OK, so I got...

Radiator <---- Will get a 3 row
Fan Clutch
Water Pump <---- Get new right?
Serpentine Belt
Thermostat <---- Will get from dealer
Auto Trans Lines <----- From dealer
Rad and heater hoses

Does this sound about right? Also couple of questions....

I have read before to get a new water pump, not rebuild. Is this correct?

Also are the radiator and heater hoses that I am replacing model specific to my jeep? or do I just go buy some hose and cut it to length? :rolleyes: Prolly a stupid question, I know.

Also what do do you think all this will end up costing me? Could you guys list the approximate prices for each?

Finally what about the power steering pump, I was told to do this also. What do you think?


Appreciate the advice guys.
 
You shouldnt need new trans cooler lines. Just one, the bottom one I think is connected to the radiator with a nylon snap type fitting. If youve ever replaced one of your fuel lines youll know what I am talking about. I didnt buy a new water pump. I bought a rebuilt one from auto zone(Life time warranty) others say new...thats up to you. I spent about $130(radiator) $20 (belt) $55(Fan clutch from carquest...be carefull where you buy these I have heard csome times they wont fit right) $25-30 (water pump) $7 (nylon fitting kit - NAPA) $13(Thermostat from dealer) heater hoses I didnt replace...radiater hoses are form fitted..and they like prolly $20 for both of em(I had new ones laying around from years back)

I decided to do all this as my xj tended to get above 210 when towing or at highway speeds.

Good luck.
 
2-Row Modine vs. 3-Row Brand "X"

FYI...

Before you get too excited over that 3-row ... read the entire thread and more importantly the last post on the attached link ...

I did a lot of research on this subject ....

If you do the math ... a Modine 2-Row enjoys approximately 11% more cooling surface area through the tubes than a Brand "X" 3-row.

Modine is the OEM for the Mopar HD radiator...


http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8764&perpage=15&pagenumber=2
 
Go to..Cherokee America @ off road.com there is a detailed write up on changing the radiator out.
Actually it is a swap out from the closed sys to the open sys,but the article takes it step by step.
 
I think $103 is a good price on the Modine. I bought a GDI when they were made in Mexico. I saw a recent GDI that was made in China. I would (will) go with the Modine next time. Without AC, the 1 row OEM was working fine in my daughter's XJ until the junction between the core and the plastic tank began to leak. I certainly wouldn't want the single row with AC or for any towing or off road use.
 
Don't forget the bearings for the serpentine belt.

There is one right behind the clutch fan - it is called the air conditioning support bracket [the bearing for the shaft are pressed in the housing]. If there is any play / resistance in the bearing, buy a new assembly - dealer part only [expensive].

Also, the tensioner pully that mounts off of the power steering pump.

Also, check the harmonic balancer for wear or play or movement.

Do a search on the forums as there was a lot of previous discussion regarding doing the radiator.
 
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