Power window motor is toast--any way to get the window back up?

So, to add to my fun pile of jeep problems, my drivers side power window motor bit the dust on the way home from work today. It's stuck halfway down. I can live with non adjustable windows, but I just want the window back up, so nobody can reach into the jeep and steal whatever is in there.
Is there any way I can manually get the window up? I pulled the door panel off, tinkered with the wiring, tapped on the motor in case it had a flat spot but didn't see any way to get the window back up. Anybody have any tricks?

You could take out the bolts that hold the window onto the regulator, this would alow you to move the window freely, the only problem is that gravity is a factor so the window will want to fall down. You could possible cut a 2x4 the right length and wedge it between the window and the bottom of the door. Hope this helps!

1. Take off the interior panel
2. Lift window into upright posistion
3. Insert medium pair of vice grips directly below the glass, and lock onto window rail.
4. Use a ziptie to hold vice grips closed.
5. Order new window regulator.

This way some theif wont see that your window is held up with a chunk of wood.

I used a hose clamp on it

hmm--well, I just drove it to the store, and gave the window a try again. Low and behold, the window rolled right back up. Can I assume that this is a electrical short or anything, or did the motor just give me one last go, kinda like a starter motor does? Either way, the window isn't coming back down until I figure it out.

What year? If it's a Renix I can maybe give you some probable trouble spots to look at.

8Mud said:

What year? If it's a Renix I can maybe give you some probable trouble spots to look at.

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LOL Crankshaft Position Sensor! J/K

I tried oiling the regulator track in our '90. It was really messy, the door was a pain to work with, and I re-assembled knowing I'd be back some other day. We have to "help" the window with the top three inches going up or down: With the engine running, open the door, sandwich the glass between your palms (one hand inside, one outside), have some one work the switch while you lift and rock the glass front to back.

I'll probably be replacing the regulator this weekend, this crap is tiresome.

Hypoid said:

LOL Crankshaft Position Sensor! J/K

I tried oiling the regulator track in our '90. It was really messy, the door was a pain to work with, and I re-assembled knowing I'd be back some other day. We have to "help" the window with the top three inches going up or down: With the engine running, open the door, sandwich the glass between your palms (one hand inside, one outside), have some one work the switch while you lift and rock the glass front to back.

I'll probably be replacing the regulator this weekend, this crap is tiresome.

Click to expand...

hehe, mines a 90 too. I didn't find the door panel too hard to remove, although I'm not overly concerned with the esthetics of the thing. Grabbed and pulled, came off no problem. Put it back on and it looks as good as new

Force some grease into the slot on the outside of the cable/coil/chain (whatever you call it) guide tube. Use your fingers. Check the rubber extension tube at the bottom end of the cable guide, it comes loose from the holder (the plastic ring clicks into a hole in the door bottom) and gets in a knot. Force some grease into the rubber extension.
There is always the possibility that the window slider/guide rubber is split someplace and causing things to clamp.
Right where the up and down wire goes into a small plastic junction on the motor itself, the wire fatigues under the insulation and is often only making contact by a few wire threads. The wire shakes back and forth and over the years fatigues through, under the insulation. You have to remove the motor and the assembly, but you can pop the back off the little junction box and put on a new spade connector after you've cut out the bad piece of wire. The original spade connector in the little junction box is a reverse bassackwords French construction that I've never figured out how to remove with the motor in the door.
The brushes in the motor are likely getting pretty short after all these years.
Under the drivers side carpet, I found the crossover power wire for the right side windows, I jumped the power wire with a handy large red one down there (believe it was seat power) and added a ground from the window ground to the dash brace bolt. While I was down there I jumped a couple of other grounds and tied them into a bundle and soldered it.
The window lock (drivers side) doesn't work anymore, the window speed on the right side windows has about doubled.
If all else fails, undo the nut at the bottom of the window where the cable bracket screws on (watch out for the spring washer) make a hook on the end of a piece of fairly thick welding rod, hook it under the window and pull (push) the window all the way up, bend the excess wire down to hook over the inside window molding, cut off much of the excess wire. If you keep everything well to the vent window side, you can tuck the wire end away so it is hardly noticeable. This also works rather well off road as well as on road, depends on how thick your welding rod is.
Another trick is to cut the inside door plastic with a box cutter and then seal it again with duct tape. Trying to remove the inside wind brake plastic is next to impossible. Taking it completely out makes the door drafty in the winter.