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2 door Cherokee 01 with 25,000 miles... mild build for daughters first Jeep

Red Mistress

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
East TX
I'm a total Jeep nut... have 3 Scramblers, CJ-7, 67 Gladiator J3000, 69 Jeepster Convertible, 87 J-20 and 06 LJR.

So naturally for my 16 year old daughter's first driver... she/me wanted a Jeep.

I've been searching world for a low mile 2 door XJ (for 3 years now) & finally found super nice one.

Plans for this Jeep is to keep it stock looking but with 31" BFG A/T's that Jeep should of built the XJ around in first place.
About the only other mod from stock appearance is thinking about Boostwerks hidden winch kit.

Know will need SYE with the 3.5" lift.

Have Metalcloak lift on my LJ and love the duraflex bushings for NHV quality, so ordered their control arms, springs and trackbar for a 3.5" lift.


I've been reading / searching and trying to decide which way to skin the cat for the rear lift. Want a level stance.

ARB CS033RB rear springs
Shackle relocation brackets
Iron Men adjustable shackles

Here's picture of Black Beauty

IMG_4489_zpsc5l2sajl.jpg



IMG_4753_zpsirv1brjv.jpg
 
Thanks, I used to be a simple man until Jeep disease; wife & kids got best of me.

Couple engine pics, never been touched except for battery & oil changes.
I plan on coolant flush during tear down.

All the different ways to lift the rear is mind boggling.
Best I can understand is shackle angle is most important.
Lifted shackle box or no lift box and which shackles.
Factory exhaust is immaculate so don't really want to jack with that.

After lift is the rear wheel centered in wheel well? Or does it need to be stretched?


Undecided about wheels, thinking about OEM Icon's (they have bad backspacing) or Quadratec wheels.
Still have my LJR Moab that I pulled off when new but they have alot of backspacing. Not real keen on spacers although I see lots peeps use them.

IMG_4518_zpsssdfbxbn.jpg
 
Great looking rig!
 
Super Jeep, and you must have one of the lowest mileage XJs in existance. Mine is a 96 Sport (2dr) wih 62K miles. It's got 235x75s on Eccos and performs very well on the highway. Also has a performance cat-back exhaust.

Your 31" tires will degrade braking a bit, and slow it down some. Handling will also suffer from the lift, but you know all this already. Not trying to change your mind on the mods, just giving my experience with highway driven XJs.
:cheers:
 
Thanks everyone, I was looking for a Red 97-01 2 door, as all my other Jeeps are Red, but when this one popped up I had to change colors.

I'm open for advice as XJ is new tech to me. Which I enjoy learning new stuff.

My daughter has obviously grown up around Jeeps and has been driving "Muddie Buddie" since age 13. She drove the LJ on some obstacles in Moab year before last.

This will be a daily driver for her, so want it safe & good road manners.
Black Beauty cruises nice at 80 and has lots of pep.

If the 31" rob much power, will re-gear to 4:10's which leads to ARB air locker's. Oh, where is best place to mount ARB single air compressor? I plan on 10" sub mounted on RH rear cargo area cutout & Alpine X-A90V 5 -channel amp under the rear seat.
This never ends....

I do plan on Big Brake Kit so planning on 16" wheels... are the Quadratec wheels good? I've searched and don't see any reviews.

https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadrat...el-silver-jeep-wrangler-yj-tj-and-cherokee-xj


And attached pic of "Muddie Buddie"

IMG_4637_zpslsznpusz.jpg


IMG_2863_zpsqjwi1wk2.jpg
 
In the "new to XJs" vein, a couple of things you should look into and consider if they are right for you: Frame plating and WJ brake conversion.

Frame plating is for long term insurance. The XJ doesn't really have a frame, so once you starting increasing tire size, adding lockers and going over obstacles it starts to take a toll on the unibody. The area in the front around the steering gear box is the most likely to have issues, but the mid section also has a lot to do with overall chassis strength. There are a bunch of options out there at different price points, some wrapping around the frame more than others. And while you are looking into frame plating, take the time to look at options for upgrading your track bar mount. The track bar is the most likely cause of death wobble. Switching to a double shear mount is a good idea. Welding that mount in along with your front stiffeners might make sense for you.

And while you are thinking upgrading that track bar mount, and upgrading brakes, look into the WJ brake conversion. That will get you dual piston calipers on larger rotors as well as over the knuckle steering linkage and better geometry. Since you are planning on going to 16" wheels for big brakes you are already past the first hurdle that many folks get hung up on. There are a bunch of different ways to do the WJ upgrade, ranging from buying a complete kit from SFR to piecing it all together from a mix of junkyard and aftermarket components.

Those are the two deep rabbit holes I would recommend you research as you make plans.

A few shallower holes, but also worth being aware, particularly since if your stable doesn't already include a 4.0L H.O. engine, are CPS, motor mounts and radiator.

At some point you will probably need to replace the CPS. These have a tendency to fail without warning, and to fail in such a fashion that you are stranded wherever it failed. Carry a spare. And if you want to make life easier on yourself when it fails, take out the one that is in there now and slot the bolt holes, and also slot the bolt holes on the new one. This will save you from having to remove the bolts all the way in the future. This in turn saves you the fun of trying to retrieve the special bolt after you drop it into the bell housing. Don't laugh. This happens. Note that it takes about 36" worth of extensions and couple of universals (or a universal and a wobble extension) to do this job. You will want an 11mm 6 point socket (at least that is what my '96 requires).

Motor (and trans) mounts are another item to watch out for. Even with low miles, the years probably haven't done the rubber any good. When the motor mounts give up the ghost they will allow the engine to move forward and get friendly with the radiator. This doesn't work out well for the radiator. Additionally, the factory block brackets are known to be relatively weak, and they have a tendency to damage the bosses on the block itself when they fail. There are aftermarket motor mounts and block plates which will resolve this issue. Look into Brown Dog and SFR for those.

Radiator/cooling system is another item to pay attention to. Some folks have trouble keeping temps down on the trail, and sometimes even on the freeway. A good radiator is critical. Mopar made an HD radiator, but I hear those are now obsolete and hard to come by. There are good aftermarket options however. This thread is worth your time: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1150722

Lastly, educate yourself about the 0331 head. There are issues with '00 and '01 Jeeps and that head. It is prone to cracking. There is a head with a TUPY designation that solves the problem. Figure out if you have the 0331 and be prepared to deal with it when the time comes.

Hopefully you already know some (if not all) of the above. But those are the issues which come to my mind for someone who is new to XJs.

Welcome aboard.
 
Mine isn't quite as big (2 inches on 245/75R16), but I didn't see any change in rear wheel position after the lift. You may notice the front axle not being centered anymore, so not a bad idea to look at adding an adjustable trackbar with the lift, if it isn't already included.

I'm running LJ Moabs, and they fit my set up perfectly. Tires are tucked inside the fenders, no rub anywhere when turning and plenty of room to flex. Plus, they're a super clean wheel and I love the look of them.
 
Super Jeep, and you must have one of the lowest mileage XJs in existance.

This does bring up a good point.

A couple of other reads for the O.P.:

https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1151310

https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1091129

I have no idea what was paid for Black Beauty or where it was sourced, but there is a side of me that says it should be detailed and sent to Barret-Jackson or something like that. But I am betting that little girl would veto that idea, and her veto probably trumps all other voices.

Just be aware of what you have before you make mods to it.
 
:hang: haha.... lots of new stuff to learn with the XJ. This forum is great !

I did know about the 331 head, so plan on watching coolant level.
If motor goes then good excuse for Golden stroker.

Picked up Black Beauty this summer, and it's seen 100 degree TX heat, it ran 210 city driving.
What bothers me is 4 cat's giving off so much unnecessary heat.

XJJeeper.... nice build & documented thread... you are very detail oriented which I strive for. Nice write-up on the WJ brake conversion & rear seat headrest !
For daughter's use of OBA would be just airing up tire, since gas stations air is always broken. So the ARB single should work just fine.
Brake booster area or underneath chassis somewhere?

Anak.... where do I find FSR complete WJ brake conversion?
I've got Black Magic BBK on my LJ w/33" and it stops fantastic.
This XJ is so like new, it probably should be preserved. My daughter said "I'm glad you didn't find Red 2 door low mile XJ or you wouldn't let me drive it any".
I am going to cringe when I have cut dash & A/C vents for Alpine double DIN, but... kids gotta have Apple Car Play. I have looked everywhere for pre-made doube DIN bezel but can't find.


Regarding frame stiffner's, double shear track-bar that is a deep rabbit hole.
One of the reasons I was thinking about Boostwerks Comp Mount... modified by me into a hidden winch kit was that it would reinforce the steering area which sees most stress.
For a DD on 31" BFG A/T's with very limited off-road should I slide down the slippery slope and do the frame plating?

IMG_4516_zpsufpulrnc.jpg

IMG_4522_zps2xfolhgf.jpg
 
Take a look at the Sony XAV-AX100 for a head unit. It is a double din face, but has a single din body behind it, and it has has Apple CarPlay. I'm going to go this direction soon and like the idea of only hacking up the trim and not the AC ducting behind the scenes.
 
:hang: haha.... lots of new stuff to learn with the XJ. This forum is great !

I did know about the 331 head, so plan on watching coolant level.
If motor goes then good excuse for Golden stroker.


For a DD on 31" BFG A/T's with very limited off-road should I slide down the slippery slope and do the frame plating?

*******************************************************************************************************************************************

No need to replace the entire low-mile engine if the stock 0331 head develops a crack. One can simply install the TUPY updated 0331 head with the revised casting which was redesigned to strengthen the area between Cyl 3-4 that was prone to cracking.

My 2000 XJ has 216k miles on it with the original 0331 head and no issues in the 11yrs I've owned it, so not every 2000-01 0331 head was a boat anchor.

As for plating the unirails, this was the first mod that I did on my 2000 (3rd XJ that I've owned) and consider it cheap insurance to reduce body flex and prevent the cracking/squeaking that comes with it over time.

Reinforcing the steering box area/sleeving the steering box bolt holes and opposite side as well, plus adding a cross member/trackbar brace will really tighten up the front end.

Per the plating on my rig, I've never had a steering box bolt loosen up or break and have experience zero cracking in the areas that are prone.

The Boostwerks hidden winch setup is pure beef and a well designed solution that give lots of bang for the buck.
 
GrapeApeXJ ... Thank U !. I like how the Sony XAV-AX100 is blank below the DIN. From my understanding the A/C vents are below radio. Definate plus to keep hacking to minimum & A/C vents blowing strong.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV100/Sony-XAV-AX100.html


Main reason I was looking at Alpine head units ilx207 as it communicates with Alpine KAC-001 accessory controller which operates 8 relay's from head unit. This would make for a very clean install and operation of: lights, air compressor, homelink, camera's ... etc....


This is best thread I've found for 97+ double DIN write-up.
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1024604
 
Here is a link to the SFR WJ steering conversion package: http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-high-roller-wj-steering-brake-kit-xj-mj/

Whether or not to plate the frame rails is a call you will have to make. Given the pristine nature of this Jeep I would be hesitant to start grinding and welding on it, but OTOH, that plating should extend the life of the vehicle. So I am of two minds on the subject.

If you opt not to plate it then doing things such as the Boostwerks Comp Mount and a C-Rock steering box support would be the wise course. Boostwerks will support the sector shaft down low. Add the C-Rock kit to support the box where it mounts to the frame. Between the two of those you would be doing the best I can think of without getting into grinding and welding.
 
I realize this is the MODIFIED Tech discussion forum but Ahhh! What are you doing!? Keep it stock! That thing belongs in a museum!
 
This build is staring to get overwhelming :) :dunno:
I do want to do things in order and absolutely correct & best the first time.

I did read that the 2 door XJ are heavy doors compared to 4 door XJ and since Black Beauty's shut so nice want to keep it that way.
Frame plating is cheap insurance like mentioned, so will be searching builds on what all is involved.
Who makes best fitting? Not necessarily the thickest or most coverage.

Did decide to tackle the Boostwerks comp mount and modify to work with factory bumper. I picture a roller fairlead where front license plate is now with a fairlead license plate holder.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/13028_1000.htm

While I'm cutting bumper, that will lead to frenching in some light buckets so they can be properly aimed... for some Rigid Midnight series 4" light's
https://www.rigidindustries.com/midnight-edition-e-series-pro-m-e-e-series.html
Similar to these, but custom built narrower to fit light exactly for adjustment bolt on side with lots of holes in back for air flow to engine and made to fit OEM bumper contour exactly.
https://www.rigidindustries.com/flush-mount-buckets-e-series-fmb-e-series.html

Mount some tow hooks somehow.
Wonder if these would still fit after comp mount ?https://www.quadratec.com/products/76045_802.htm


As for wheels / tires, I want to keep factory appearance on this build.
16" BFG A/T's makes a load range D in 275/70/R16 which measure 31.2" OD and 11" tread on 8" wheel. Wish they offered a load range C for light XJ.

17" JK wheels have like 6+/-" of BS and would require spacers.
I've used http://www.wheeladapter.com/wheel_adapters.php hub centric made from steel for our Excursion so I could run late model Ford OEM 20" wheels.
So what is optimum BS for the WJ BBK ?
Crap, I might as well swap in some JKR axles for brakes, lockers and 4:10's. :helpme:
Seriously this is probably the best & cheapest option !

I like pics and know from forum experience that everyone likes pics, so here is Black Beauty hitting 25K miles and few others.
IMG_4511_zps7otxwybi.jpg


IMG_4533_zps3m2dxl1o.jpg



photo_zps0cf1cef7.jpg


And forgot to put 82 Cherokee Laredo with 24K miles / original paint on my Red Jeep collection on first post.
photo_zpsf6a33ff0.jpg
 
That's in such amazing shape I'd be hesitant to do any serious mods to it. As for towhooks. I went with a 2in reciever hitch on the front on my latest Jeep and like it quite a bit. It not only takes off center pulls better than tow hooks it also stiffens up the front end by trying the front frame rails together. Install took less than an hour and I didn't even have to remove the bumper.



Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
holy crap this thread is so full of horrible advice for this stage of a build.

Do normal small bolt on stuff and enjoy it for a few 25k miles.

Don't plate the frame rails. Until you start doing moderate rock crawling you won't need it.

I would not mess with a hidden winch mount. Look at DPG Offroad or Hansen for a front bumper with a winch mount. It will be fine for your daughter. I have an ARB and works good. I need to get one of the above for the rear.

Do watch the head.

I would not go with 17" wheels. 31's or 32's are going to be low pro more or less. I'm running 16's cause I had them but I'd rather run 15's given the choice. More sidewall and better ride.

I'm not a fan of the ARB lockers and would run the Eaton e-lockers and I'd only do the rear. Gears are a toss up depending on the tires size you pick. 235 or similar 30's and I'd leave them as is. 32's-33's and I run 4.56's.

Baja Design is the place to get your lights from.

Upgrade the steering with Poly or StinkyFab. Upgrade the motor and trans mount from StinkyFab. Add gas tank skid, transfer case skid, rock rails, 2-3" lift and leave the res alone. Should look at a slip yoke eliminator on the transfer case.

Picture of mine below, massive picture so I'll link it:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zeD9px6Hn6d1uTbm6
RIX-TlN1dcGPxWV1rwsuyZ52bA4mhG6GWwZF_qg3LSDPuf92IIs50_cxW4wA8DAvxETkw7tmVt8h6hknzUOW5AjVAu2DE3qH1IAWF1qGLxy4O8PIHoBGJwEHC8YIuM4H310DerKmh7fA26PeXA3WnvO1xGKv3SidMH4alQo6T6X5qra_sMwX0z4teNW-qA9fiDdJNUqRRBxKla0hDZIuoZWyY4zNbmwnyBQenirVPLKr4tICydNLFYcSsrm1nba44670RVyqLHmdMcnr_7DVZIGcd8TStV2mjW86KgjIIxile98QPLr4Yhfc9vUof5ln7xrF8lbkdEhDwqQKQEoFeDXOVtlLNhADZGKN3CNKm0Qi-Ap3DPKXU4uZRWPyjCjZ-Nr6F3SQg6jkPV2junHL1wPDkSBGRe9BjzSut3afnK9daojKl3-6Qn9gnHwYI1lDFrB73xfOdc43yjaS1mfAf8L86erWnSKzDeRi69DyI1V9BL3CyJUPoJew_ShJQQGIDy89rNBJ8mOa6YvDUSLiZomqceTjwVSMqny5wAE8VdwjDxR0_kNmrp8OmPxwoJ55B1FvnjxEtEUXvRcOsjDXxEEkDNlMbpVAc6OrUa5VOMZMmHyK0pN6BNvod6KIasonAU32m9PHKp2dZlhYm6c-5iSLFyWtgaEbgbkeA5UrwT3ZCj7uPvQVPSgor3D6K0zoGpx25JsX_ec61cnEoU8=w1180-h781-no
 
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