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Ring Gear Bolts

Tryfan

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New York
Dana 30 2001 XJ
Do you guys put blue or red thread locker on ring gear bolts? My shop manual doesn't mention putting any type of threadlocker on them - it just says install. When I took my old bolts off it seemed as if the threads were full of gear lube.
 
oem uses no chemical thread lock. The bolt head is serrated on the bottom.

that said... red or blue... does not matter, only that red will be a more permenent set than the blue.
 
When I am ghetto and reuse them (not recommended, but I was really broke last time I worked on my d30) I use threadlocker... otherwise I don't, new ones don't need it.

I usually soak the ring gear and bolts in gasoline to cut the gearlube off, then hose the bolt holes and mounting surface off with acetone, then let everything air dry. Does a decent job of taking the lube off and leaving a good clean surface for the thread locker.

Oh, put the ring gear in a gallon ziploc and dunk it in a bucket of hot water... put the carrier in the freezer. The ring gear will just drop on and spin freely so you can align the bolt holes and get the bolts all started nicely - never, ever "pull" a ring gear onto a carrier using the bolts, you risk damaging the threads or bending the bolts if it doesn't go on perfectly straight, which it probably won't.
 
When I am ghetto and reuse them (not recommended, but I was really broke last time I worked on my d30) I use threadlocker... otherwise I don't, new ones don't need it.

I usually soak the ring gear and bolts in gasoline to cut the gearlube off, then hose the bolt holes and mounting surface off with acetone, then let everything air dry. Does a decent job of taking the lube off and leaving a good clean surface for the thread locker.

Oh, put the ring gear in a gallon ziploc and dunk it in a bucket of hot water... put the carrier in the freezer. The ring gear will just drop on and spin freely so you can align the bolt holes and get the bolts all started nicely - never, ever "pull" a ring gear onto a carrier using the bolts, you risk damaging the threads or bending the bolts if it doesn't go on perfectly straight, which it probably won't.

LOL, I always use red threadlocker and always "pull" the ring gear on with the bolts as I tighten them easily. Perhaps I should stop doing that.
 
You probably should. If you haven't had an issue with it, you've been lucky, either that or the instructions I followed were overly cautious.

It makes good engineering sense to NOT pull the ring gear on with the bolts, though... so I just follow it. Especially since the carrier's going in the fridge at some point anyways (I like to put the carrier in the fridge and use a heatgun on the carrier bearings till they are so hot I can barely hold them bare handed*) to make pressing the bearings on easier.

* if you heat them up too much it will de-temper the bearings, but if you can hold them bare handed they are nowhere near the danger zone temperature wise.
 
I once had a ring gear actually loosen on a classic car
(not an XJ). Found it before any damage was done, and
simply installed lock washers on the existing bolts.

A new set of serrated bolts should hold fine. Be sure
to torque them evenly and to correct specs.
 
That's a good point, I forgot to mention to always do ring gear bolts in a star pattern. I usually do em all hand tight, then lazy ratchet tight, then around 25% under spec, then torque to final spec, but that is probably way overkill and you can skip most of the steps unless the FSM says to do that.
 
New gears come with bolts.
For old gears, I re-use the old ones.

I thread a couple bolts in as a guide, then use a brass hammer to set the gear. Then tighten the bolts in a star pattern, gradually increasing torque until torque spec has been reached. I don't think the FSM says to do it, it's just good practice.

I have seen thread loc used OEM; I don't.

-Ron
 
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