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XJ Front 4 & 3 Link At Its Best

Ironmanandy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Carlolina
We've made our own 3 and 4 link design that offers you the best balance of offroad capability and a high clearance design. We give you the option of tuning your suspension to meet your needs. From 70% anti-dive to 120%, we give you the ability to dial in your suspension from rock crawling to mud bogging and have it done correctly. This is engineering in action.
We're not stopping here, there's too much more ground to cover, to bring to you more enhanced offroad capability. Look for a rear 4 link design in the future.

ZJ peeps hold fast. You know what comes around goes around.

We are currently offering our 4 Link kit in our Presale Test Program now.
Get your 3 or 4 link kit today at a discounted price. Help us make our design better by offering insight and recommendations now. From our years of experience, we know that we are not know it alls. We are wanting you to helps improve our products by letting us know what works and what does not. If you find an issue, let us know so we can fix it. From the beginning, we have been relying on you to help us make the strongest, most reliable products in the industry.

How to Order:

Message us, email us, call us.
Message us here on NAXJA
Email [email protected]
Call Kevin at 913-708-3423

Crossmember: $350 plus shipping

4 Link Kit: $1150 plus shipping

3 Link Kit: $1000 plus shipping

Check out our video for a brief overview.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUFfuraT4t0&t=1s









 
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Any idea if it will clear the drivers side 2000 exhaust -- the exhaust with the pre-cats -- thats my XJ



What is the non test subject pricing going to be?
 
Any idea if it will clear the drivers side 2000 exhaust -- the exhaust with the pre-cats -- thats my XJ



What is the non test subject pricing going to be?

We have found that everyone's exhaust seems to be different. Everything clears on our 1999 XJ. We warn that exhaust modification might be necessary for some people but not all.

The point of this setup is for those who want properly tuned suspension. There are alternative options available for those who want a direct bolt in application without issue for better or for worse.
 
Are there any pictures looking at the front axle on the drivers side -- All the pictures I have seen are of the passenger side -- wondering what kind of clearance you have attaching to the cast UCA mount on the diff -- how much driveshaft clearance -- might be able to judge the exhaust clearance better

Modifying the downpipes on a 2000/2001 with cali emissions isn't a simple task -- although not impossible it's certainly a project I don't care to undertake -- your kinda stuck with the pre-cat/o2sensor design to keep the PCM happy

I do really like the looks of your crossmember/skid plate -- looks as beefy as any I have seen -- at least in the pictures -- I would certainly like to see more pictures -- also pictures with the center section removed for trans access

How about links on the axle end? -- Got enough flex to counteract the binding of a 4 link?
 
This seems to be triangulated a lot more than stock....I assume this will still require a track bar tho ?

Any pics of the brackets themselves so we can see how the anti-dive gets adjusted ??

How far along is the rear coil conversion ?
 
Any pictures or details on the amount of travel? I need to know how big of curbs I can run over at the mall without tipping into the Taurus next to me.
 
Was looking a it again today...looking at the pics, the way you 'd have to remove the bolts holding the center section in to remove it is gonna suck.....
 
The pictures here seem to contradict themselves -- In the 1st picture there seems to be 1 plate, bolted to what I'll call the subframe -- the plate seems to cover the entire bottom

In the 2nd picture there seem to be 2 plates bolted to the outer sections of the subframe -- nothing in the middle

If you look at the picture in the other thread of the other side of the subframe those center section bolts look inaccessible from underneath

who knows...
 
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The pictures here seem to contradict themselves -- In the 1st picture there seems to be 1 plate, bolted to what I'll call the subframe -- the plate seems to cover the entire bottom

In the 2nd picture there seem to be 2 plates bolted to the outer sections of the subframe -- nothing in the middle

If you look at the picture in the other thread of the other side of the subframe those center section bolts look inaccessible from underneath

who knows...

EXACTLY !!!
 
Modifying the downpipes on a 2000/2001 with cali emissions isn't a simple task -- although not impossible it's certainly a project I don't care to undertake -- your kinda stuck with the pre-cat/o2sensor design to keep the PCM happy

Been there, done that on my '01 to put a Currie HP 9" up front. I found an exhaust shop that had some techs with an imagination, and the skill to back it up to modify mine. Certainly not something that Midas is going to be able to do.
 
This seems to be triangulated a lot more than stock....I assume this will still require a track bar tho ?

Any pics of the brackets themselves so we can see how the anti-dive gets adjusted ??

How far along is the rear coil conversion ?

Multiple holes allow you to move your links around to suit your needs from 70%-120%. Same with rear.



The pictures here seem to contradict themselves -- In the 1st picture there seems to be 1 plate, bolted to what I'll call the subframe -- the plate seems to cover the entire bottom

In the 2nd picture there seem to be 2 plates bolted to the outer sections of the subframe -- nothing in the middle

If you look at the picture in the other thread of the other side of the subframe those center section bolts look inaccessible from underneath

who knows...

There are frame brackets and then a center section. I see what you're talking about, the two piece are so close in color and texture they sort of blended together. Maybe this will help.

I know all of you are like, bro, all dem bolts tho. Yeah, there's a lot and some will go and some will stay. Maybe move some over here and there.



And for the trans people.



The Trans is a few inches narrower than the center width.

You will have to take off your transfer case to make it doable.

If you are removing your trans all the time you have issues.

Again its doable. Copious amounts of pictures and video will be taken to prove this.







Are there any pictures looking at the front axle on the drivers side -- All the pictures I have seen are of the passenger side -- wondering what kind of clearance you have attaching to the cast UCA mount on the diff -- how much driveshaft clearance -- might be able to judge the exhaust clearance better

Modifying the downpipes on a 2000/2001 with cali emissions isn't a simple task -- although not impossible it's certainly a project I don't care to undertake -- your kinda stuck with the pre-cat/o2sensor design to keep the PCM happy

I do really like the looks of your crossmember/skid plate -- looks as beefy as any I have seen -- at least in the pictures -- I would certainly like to see more pictures -- also pictures with the center section removed for trans access

How about links on the axle end? -- Got enough flex to counteract the binding of a 4 link?

At first we had the driver upper link coming too close to the drive shaft. Made a new bracket on the link to offset it so clears better. Same deal with the exhaust on the passenger side. There's always a price to pay for doing something like this, it may be the exhaust.

We do not have pictures of it all installed with the modifications we made to the design yet. Thats happening this week. As soon as that happens I'll post them up.

It's not perfect and we don't claim to always be right. This setup may require tweaking until we get it where we want it. The skid only hangs down 2" from the the frame rail. You get crazy adjustability. Full belly skid. It offers a lot. If it comes at the cost of exhaust modification for example, that might just be how it is.
 
Thanks for finally jumping in -- Some of the bolts don't make sense, seems to just sandwich 2 plates together which look to be welded together by the upper link mount anyway

I do see that optical illusion where it looks to be 1 plate covering the whole thing in the 1st picture

I don't mind exhaust modification but theres one part of it thats something I would rather not modify -- that downpipe with the pre-cats -- I guess you really can't know if it will clear if you don't have a 2000+ XJ with the cali emissions around -- my thinking is it should be OK -- I believe the exhaust flange is on the inside of the driveshaft -- you must have that upper link outside the driveshaft, between frame rail and driveshaft

I think it looks great -- Too many bolts to get buggered up but sounds like your still designing and moving things around

How about trans pan drain hole - still have access with everything together? Wasn't really thinking about access to pull the trans , just trans maintenance access. need to be able to dump trans fluid fairly easily -- the harder it is the more overlooked/less it will get done

I personally don't think I need the 4 link rear, although your setup is looking great -- the option to go 4 link rear later, with the same front setup, is a super bonus

you do have my attention
 
Thanks for finally jumping in -- Some of the bolts don't make sense, seems to just sandwich 2 plates together which look to be welded together by the upper link mount anyway

I do see that optical illusion where it looks to be 1 plate covering the whole thing in the 1st picture

I don't mind exhaust modification but theres one part of it thats something I would rather not modify -- that downpipe with the pre-cats -- I guess you really can't know if it will clear if you don't have a 2000+ XJ with the cali emissions around -- my thinking is it should be OK -- I believe the exhaust flange is on the inside of the driveshaft -- you must have that upper link outside the driveshaft, between frame rail and driveshaft

I think it looks great -- Too many bolts to get buggered up but sounds like your still designing and moving things around

How about trans pan drain hole - still have access with everything together? Wasn't really thinking about access to pull the trans , just trans maintenance access. need to be able to dump trans fluid fairly easily -- the harder it is the more overlooked/less it will get done

I personally don't think I need the 4 link rear, although your setup is looking great -- the option to go 4 link rear later, with the same front setup, is a super bonus

you do have my attention

forgot to ask -- what size plate are you building out of -- 1/4 -- 3/16?

Can't confidently comment on the precats for 00/01 Cali emissions XJs. We have a manual 99 and an automatic 98. My personal one is a 2000 but I have the Rubicon Express crossmember set up and its non-cali.

We will be adding a drain hole access.

Yes the upper link sneaks between the driveshaft and the body.

Everything is 1/4".

To elaborate on the plates. The upper link mount is a separate bracket that bolts to the lower bracket, that is weld to the frame. This is for you to be able to access to upper link bolts at the mount because it is so tight in there.

Upper mount


Lower Mount


Married together. Well..seeing each other
 
Also we are not rushing this. Its gonna be taken on slowly. Needless to say, and its not this thread, there is a lot of criticism in the air surrounding this design. So we are doing our best to make sure we don't skip over anything.
 
there is a lot of criticism in the air surrounding this design. So we are doing our best to make sure we don't skip over anything.

Can you elaborate on this -- I have to admit I'm new to the XJ platform and know nothing on coil spring suspension design -- spent my whole life on leaf springs

I'd love to hear what others are saying about your design -- good or bad

From a fabricating standpoint the work looks top notch
 
Man, I like the way the front & rear look together...hope you can get it to work.

I am still quite concerned over how you are going to get to all those bolts on the top of the crossmember, but under the trans/t-case/driveshaft, etc......my arms won't fit in there if it's as close as it looks to be.


.
 
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Can you elaborate on this -- I have to admit I'm new to the XJ platform and know nothing on coil spring suspension design -- spent my whole life on leaf springs

I'd love to hear what others are saying about your design -- good or bad

From a fabricating standpoint the work looks top notch

People are claiming there's no way you can take the transmission out. When you definitely can.

People love how high clearance it is, but feel its impossible to access bolts. (Fair argument, its tight).

The Good is,
at the end of the day, what you see is most likely how it will look overall. So a full belly skid design that you can add on to. "Modular" in a sense. Meaning you can add on the rear 4 link to the front 4 link. We've always discussed adding a trans cover for the front (just a thought, not a thing yet). Then maybe boat sides. Who knows.

Most importantly, to whom it may concern, you will be able to dial your front and rear in with unmatched anti squat and anti dive numbers for a Cherokee platform. Which gives the ability to set up your suspension for your application. Such as, rock crawling, mud bogging, daily driver/weekend wheeler, etc.

The Bad.
Its "new" and untested. (People are naturally skeptical, as they should be, when something "new" happens)

There's clearance issue we are working on.

It requires welding (Its sad I have to list that as a bad thing, but its a thing for some)

You most likely will have to modify exhaust


I stress the fact that none of this is being thrown together to make quick money. We take a lot of pride in designing products that work.


Man, I like the way the front & rear look together...hope you can get it to work.

I am still quite concerned over how you are going to get to all those bolts on the top of the crossmember, but under the trans/t-case/driveshaft, etc......my arms won't fit in there if it's as close as it looks to be.


.

We are trying to move things around to mitigate that issue. Sure its easy to assemble on the floor, but putting it in place is difficult. We have determined that it is feasible when we put it on ourselves. Working on making that process easier.
 
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