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What are you towing with?

Ever having to work on it would scare the hell outta me, Nissan is notorious for bolting everything to each other....to change a wiper blade you have to remove the windshield, etc.
 
Side note, a friend of mine has had the dodge eco diesel for about 6 months. Consistently over 20mpg with a 3k lb trailer hooked up around town. 29mpg on his last tank of mostly highway, no trailer. Pulls a car trailer with vehicle at least as well as a 1 ton truck from the 90's.

I'm pretty impressed, can't wait to see if it lasts half a million miles or not.
 
Side note, a friend of mine has had the dodge eco diesel for about 6 months. Consistently over 20mpg with a 3k lb trailer hooked up around town. 29mpg on his last tank of mostly highway, no trailer. Pulls a car trailer with vehicle at least as well as a 1 ton truck from the 90's.

I'm pretty impressed, can't wait to see if it lasts half a million miles or not.

My buddy has one and loves it.

They are pricey to get into but satisfaction level seems high.
 
I have been curious too but I haven't seen it and if the Nissan engineers are consistent, then the best part about the truck will be the motor and everything else extremely underwhelming.

I actually had a guy stop by while I was working on the jeep over the summer and I looked at it. It looked good. He said he was getting really good millage out of it but he had only towed a trailer and lawn equipment all light stuff.

Side note, a friend of mine has had the dodge eco diesel for about 6 months. Consistently over 20mpg with a 3k lb trailer hooked up around town. 29mpg on his last tank of mostly highway, no trailer. Pulls a car trailer with vehicle at least as well as a 1 ton truck from the 90's.

I'm pretty impressed, can't wait to see if it lasts half a million miles or not.

That was my next question. A-mechanic who use to be a regular here told me the vitori Diesel is a actually a decent motor from what he's seen. I saw one in a parking lot but Dodge is notorious for crappy interiors and I'm not a fan of their front looks. However there is another Dodge truck that I really like I just don't know if it comes with the Diesel option. I think it's the Rebel.
 
thought about the nissan diesel. Armada's getting it too. will likely be a great engine, but wasn't crazy about having 1st gen vehicle. engine's a torque monster though.
 
Owning a Nissan is like being in the special olympics..
 
I would love to hear some specific input from people that tow with half tons.

I have a 2016 Silverado with a V8 (Z71) and the hitch has a 12,000# sticker on it. :eek:

I am curious about the prospect of towing my XJ, it would be going over passes and what not (live in CO and Moab is a must).
 
I would love to hear some specific input from people that tow with half tons.

I have a 2016 Silverado with a V8 (Z71) and the hitch has a 12,000# sticker on it. :eek:

I am curious about the prospect of towing my XJ, it would be going over passes and what not (live in CO and Moab is a must).

Used to tow with my old mans 2010 f150 - v8.
Towed awesome with a double axle behind it. averaged 13 or so from springs to west slope.
 
Used to tow with my old mans 2010 f150 - v8.
Towed awesome with a double axle behind it. averaged 13 or so from springs to west slope.

Nice. :thumbup:
 
I got a question about Flat towing behind a motor home, relative just purchased a MH, and a new 2016 (left over) JK unlimited. Owners manual on Jeep says flat tow (4 wheels down) with transfer case in neutral. That's it. Being a "Jeep guy", they asked me, so the question is, do you leave key in Jeep and steering unlocked, or do you set tires straight and lock steering (remove key)?
 
Unlock the steering but put a couple bungee cords on the steering wheel to help it return to center.
 
I would love to hear some specific input from people that tow with half tons.

I have a 2016 Silverado with a V8 (Z71) and the hitch has a 12,000# sticker on it. :eek:

I am curious about the prospect of towing my XJ, it would be going over passes and what not (live in CO and Moab is a must).
Just remember, simply because the hitch is rated for that weigh doesn't mean the truck is. Always look in the owners manual for the rated limit of the vehicle.

That being said, I've towed probably over a hundred times with half tons. They aren't the ultimate but they'll get it done if you're only hauling an XJ on a trailer. I'd advise you to get a transmission temperature gauge and keep an eye on it when towing.
 
I know this is old but why start a new one....

Anyone care to inform me how you're strapping the rear axle? My 8.25 has a brake line running all the way across, leaving no where to wrap a axle strap around it. Was thinking about using the leaf spring top plate as a catch but would be curious to see how you guys do it.
 
I know this is old but why start a new one....

Anyone care to inform me how you're strapping the rear axle? My 8.25 has a brake line running all the way across, leaving no where to wrap a axle strap around it. Was thinking about using the leaf spring top plate as a catch but would be curious to see how you guys do it.

I go to the d ring mounts on the rear bumper and front tie down holes on the front. Compressing the suspension keeps it from bouncing. On long hauls I will add a strap to each axle. For the rear on my D60 there is a spot I can slip the strap under the brake line. GAMike just replaced a rear from being bent form chaining it down. At least that is what he theorizes bent it.
 
I go to the d ring mounts on the rear bumper and front tie down holes on the front. Compressing the suspension keeps it from bouncing. On long hauls I will add a strap to each axle. For the rear on my D60 there is a spot I can slip the strap under the brake line. GAMike just replaced a rear from being bent form chaining it down. At least that is what he theorizes bent it.

Right on but I will not tie down with the bumpers or unibody holes. Just personal preference. I tried googling around and searched multiple forums, couldn't come up with any pics of how guys do it.
 
I know this is old but why start a new one....

Anyone care to inform me how you're strapping the rear axle? My 8.25 has a brake line running all the way across, leaving no where to wrap a axle strap around it. Was thinking about using the leaf spring top plate as a catch but would be curious to see how you guys do it.

I used to loop my chain under the tube, then over the pumpkin, then back under the tube on the other side. Notice I said "used to." I wound up bending my axle housing because I was getting a bit too overzealous with tightening everything down.

I now use a JRT chain set hooked to the frame. There's a slot specifically for it just forward of the front leaf spring mount. It's a small oval shaped hole.

You'll get arguments back and forth between what's best; strapping by the axles, wheels or the frame. With our pliable suspensions I feel hooking to the frame is better, but someone else may say they feel safer hooking to the axles. I'm not sure what the DOT says. Ghost may know since he's in the trucking industry.

Good luck with it.
 
Right on but I will not tie down with the bumpers or unibody holes. Just personal preference. I tried googling around and searched multiple forums, couldn't come up with any pics of how guys do it.

Just think of it like this, when they were delivered from the factory they were chained down to the car hauler through those holes in the unibody frame rails. Trust me, the metal is much thicker in the areas out back that I described in my last post. When I added my frame rail stiffeners I forgot to measure where the slots were. I went back and added my own but missed the factory holes. With my stiffeners the total material thickness was around 3/8" thick so that would put the factory holes at around 1/4" in that area due to the extra material sandwiched together there. It's made for this purpose so it's perfectly safe to use it.
 
Just think of it like this, when they were delivered from the factory they were chained down to the car hauler through those holes in the unibody frame rails. Trust me, the metal is much thicker in the areas out back that I described in my last post. When I added my frame rail stiffeners I forgot to measure where the slots were. I went back and added my own but missed the factory holes. With my stiffeners the total material thickness was around 3/8" thick so that would put the factory holes at around 1/4" in that area due to the extra material sandwiched together there. It's made for this purpose so it's perfectly safe to use it.

I understand what you guys are saying, just want to be as safe as possible. I'm sure some of these jeeps traveled hundreds of miles that way from the factory but it still makes me nervous using that method out back. I'm also tying it down inside the footprint of the truck. So front axle tie downs come back and attach to the trailer rings under the driver seat and rear straps come forward tying in under where about the back seat is. I can do it the more traditional method of going forward with the fronts and back with the rears but I'd like to get a quad on the trailer in front of the XJ. That makes the fronts going forward impossible with the quad there....Just throwing around ideas.
 
That's understandable. I'm sure you've got a good grasp on what you need to do so you can fit all you need to fit on the trailer. Whichever method you decide to use, just keep it as safe as possible. I know a guy and I won't mention his name (lol) that uses one strap to the front, and one out back, both hooked to the bumpers. A couple times he's showed up to camp and the straps were hanging slightly loose haha. Pretty laid back guy and it actually makes me jealous at times that I can't turn off my "worry mode" like he can. I think since the last time that happened he's added a strap or two. I just think it's funny how stark a difference there can be in attitudes about the subject but we all still make it there, time after time lol.
 
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