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Test Results from Stroker Overheat (Overheated the Stroker Badly- Part DUEX)

NHxj4x4

NAXJA Member #1132
Location
Keene NH
I wanted to start a new thread, the other one was getting too long, thanks to all that replied, and for those that would like to read it: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73262

So I went outside tonight and did some checking. Started with changing the oil, which had 660mi on it. Color was fine, not milky, and there was ZERO metal in the mix, all good things. So I went ahead and threw my 8 quarts and 2 filters on there and started her up. Great oil pressure, everything flowed fine. I decided to leave it running to warm the engine so I could do the compression tests. about 5 minutes in (at 150deg) I noticed steam coming from the engine bay, and WHOA was the exhaust steam a-flowin, but that subsided after a few minutes, but it lingered, it didn't dissipate as normal exhaust steam does. It also made my hand wet, before and after the steam had stopped, and of course, had a semi-sweet smell to it. So I peak around in the engine bay, the frikkin heater control valve leaks again, although it looks like it is a hose now, but just a drip here and there, nothing that I care about right now. The lower rad hose leaks now, didn't before. Also I notice a drip that has smoke tails, so I get underneath, and thanks to a leak that is in my pacesetters (thanks pacesetter) I see coolant coming from my headers....yippie...

I was coming from the Y pipe, the one closest to the nose, so I know I had issues in cyl 1, 2 or 3, since there was no leak in the other pipe, I couldn't tell if 4, 5 and 6 had fluid in them as well. I turned off the engine and started the compression test:

I pulled the plugs and noted their general condition:

1- Soaking wet with coolant, steam coming from hole
2- Fine, coloring normal
3- Fine
4- Fine, just a tad bit of steam from hole
5- Fine
6- Fine

I then started the compression test. I pulled the Fuel Pump Relay to kill the MPFI, and pulled the coil wire.

Each cyl got 2 tests, one just as it sat, and 1 with a teaspoon of oil in the cyl, also to remain uniform each cyl got 9 spins, for those of you that have done that you know what I mean. Here are the results:

1- 145psi, 160 with oil
2- 180psi, 190 with oil
3- 180psi, 190 with oil
4- 180psi, 190 with oil
5- 180psi, 190 with oil
6- 190 psi, 200 with oil

So those are the results, also the noise that I discussed in the original post is gone. I'm guessing that I have only screwed my headgasket, but I would love some feedback and thoughts please, and a general idea as to whether or not a headgasket makes a car run like shat, this is the 1st one I have blown.

Thanks,

Todd
 
You won't know what the problem is until you pull off the head but since it's only the no.1 cylinder that's affected, it's more likely that you've cracked the head between the cooling jacket and the no.1 exhaust port. A blown head gasket is still possible though and that would be the best case scenario.
The engine runs like crap because it's effectively running on 5 cylinders.
Pull off the head and let us know what you find. Photos would be useful but make sure you shrink them down so they don't take forever to download.
 
Dr. Dyno said:
You won't know what the problem is until you pull off the head but since it's only the no.1 cylinder that's affected, it's more likely that you've cracked the head between the cooling jacket and the no.1 exhaust port. A blown head gasket is still possible though and that would be the best case scenario.
The engine runs like crap because it's effectively running on 5 cylinders.
Pull off the head and let us know what you find. Photos would be useful but make sure you shrink them down so they don't take forever to download.

Great....heads coming off this weekend, or hell, maybe tonight.
 
langer1 said:
Well now we also know that the noise was hydro lock so you should pull 1 and 2 pistion and inspect for broken rings or cracked groves.

I think I'm just going to pull the whole engine, and sent it for warranty repair, removing pistons and all that shat, sorry, never done it. I also don't want to void my warranty by digging in there myself, I paid for it, might as well use it.
 
NHxj4x4 said:
I think I'm just going to pull the whole engine, and sent it for warranty repair, removing pistons and all that shat, sorry, never done it. I also don't want to void my warranty by digging in there myself, I paid for it, might as well use it.
I'm somewhat confused about that. Was this a long block(with head) or a short block (without head).
If it was a short block I doubt damage caused by a head gasket leak would be covered.
 
langer1 said:
I'm somewhat confused about that. Was this a long block(with head) or a short block (without head).
If it was a short block I doubt damage caused by a head gasket leak would be covered.

Sorry I messed up the meaning, this included the head, so Long Block I guess. I'd love to fix it myself, god knows it would be quicker, and I'm sure I could figure it out (engine took 14 weeks to get here the 1st time)

I'll call them and see if they are open to me futzing with it.
 
NHxj4x4 said:
Sorry I messed up the meaning, this included the head, so Long Block I guess. I'd love to fix it myself, god knows it would be quicker, and I'm sure I could figure it out (engine took 14 weeks to get here the 1st time)

I'll call them and see if they are open to me futzing with it.
Good move but CYA and get everything in writing if your are told to work on it.
They also may have someone local that you can take it to for inspection and repair.
 
langer1 said:
Good move but CYA and get everything in writing if your are told to work on it.
They also may have someone local that you can take it to for inspection and repair.

Good call, I'll do that. If they has someone local that I could limp it to, that would be great. It's frikkin cold out here :rattle:
 
NHxj4x4 said:
Good call, I'll do that. If they has someone local that I could limp it to, that would be great. It's frikkin cold out here :rattle:
Also don't say anything about the heater valve, but because of all the other leaks I think it was caused by the head gasket blowing first.
 
langer1 said:
Also don't say anything about the heater valve, but because of all the other leaks I think it was caused by the head gasket blowing first.

So why would the head gasket of just blown? That part I don't get. Running temp was always 180, idle was always 210. Also bear in mind that everything on this thing is new, literally everything.
 
NHxj4x4 said:
So why would the head gasket of just blown? That part I don't get. Running temp was always 180, idle was always 210. Also bear in mind that everything on this thing is new, literally everything.
Because the builder did something wrong missed a head bolt or something.
You need to be sure to defend your cooling system, like you said everything was new. Don't even let them think that something in the cooling system failed first. Don't even go into that, just go with your first heard the knocking noise and seen steam in your exaust.
Don't give them the sitting and finding your temp gauge pegged story.
You seen steam/water in your exaust, you heard a knocking sound, you tested compression and found wet plugs.
As far as you know it was NEVER overheated.
 
I just called em, and they asked me to do another test, blow compressed air into the cylinder. Which is easy enough for me since my compression tester uses a standard air fitting (quick connect for the gauge) I'll do that tonight and see where the leak is.
 
NHxj4x4 said:
I just called em, and they asked me to do another test, blow compressed air into the cylinder. Which is easy enough for me since my compression tester uses a standard air fitting (quick connect for the gauge) I'll do that tonight and see where the leak is.
If thats what they want but I don't think it will tell much, just make sure you have the radiator cap off and don't turn it over again.
Again just to be sure don't mention any leaks when you run that test.
 
langer1 said:
If thats what they want but I don't think it will tell much, just make sure you have the radiator cap off and don't turn it over again.
Again just to be sure don't mention any leaks when you run that test.

I'll tell them if their are air leaks though. Anyway, I was reading http://www.650motorcycles.com/LeakDownTester.html and I went and bought the stuff that he mentioned. I do have a 1 way schrader in my compression tester so I'll unscrew that. He also mentioned to be at TDC for each cylinder when you test it. I know how to set TDC for adjusing the timing for example, but how do I get to TDC for cyls 2-6?
 
Ive used that test to check for sticking/burnt valves. When ive done it the valve cover was off. Basically turned the motor untill both lifters where free. You could also hold your finger on the plug holoe until you feel compression...
 
NHxj4x4 said:
I'll tell them if their are air leaks though. Anyway, I was reading http://www.650motorcycles.com/LeakDownTester.html and I went and bought the stuff that he mentioned. I do have a 1 way schrader in my compression tester so I'll unscrew that. He also mentioned to be at TDC for each cylinder when you test it. I know how to set TDC for adjusing the timing for example, but how do I get to TDC for cyls 2-6?
Leak down test, that’s a good test when you don't have any obvious problem, but I don't see what it has to do with coolant on the spark plugs.
After you have TDC #1 then 1 full turn will be the next cyclinder in the firing order. The air will turn the engine though so watch out for that.

Oh BTW if you have air leaking out the exaust or intake their going to say you floated the valves and bent one, "Warrenty Void"
 
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langer1 said:
Leak down test, that’s a good test when you don't have any obvious problem, but I don't see what it has to do with coolant on the spark plugs.
After you have TDC #1 then 1 full turn will be the next cyclinder in the firing order. The air will turn the engine though so watch out for that.

Oh BTW if you have air leaking out the exaust or intake their going to say you floated the valves and bent one, "Warrenty Void"

Wouldn't 1 full turn bring #1 to BDC? Does that in turn bring #2 to TDC?

Also WTF is floating a valve? I do have antifreeze dripping out a leak in my header, should I not mention that as well?
 
NHxj4x4 said:
but how do I get to TDC for cyls 2-6?
pull the plug put your thumb over the hole and turn the motor over till the air escapes past your thumb, I hope this makes sence.
 
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