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Greg Smith Power door locks writeup PRE-1991

Re: Greg Smith Power door locks writeup

This is a long shot due to the age of the post I found, but how do I get a copy of the diagram for the 1990 and earlier XJ power door lock upgrade?
 
Holy hell! This forums alive! All these years later im about to do this
 
Make a diagram while you're at it.......


Yes that would be really handy to have!


I have the door panels off of my 89 XJ while installing new speakers and am contemplating if I should install the relays now or not?


The windows work but the driver side front is pretty slow. The power door locks definitely need some help since they are really stiff.


Silicone spray in the linkage has helped some.
 
Does anyone have an original pre-1988 full cross-body wiring setup, all ready to go with all the mods/fixes and the door panel switches/surround? I'd really be interested in buying.
 
Ok so I did this fix, my door locks are like, super strong now but, my power antenna wont stop working so I had to pull the fuse for it, 1) what could this be resulting from and 2)will this drain my battery as a result? For the pwr wire I did I chained both pwr wires going to the relay from the red wire going into the passenger door like he stated.
 
Long as you have the fuse pulled, it won't drain the battery. Have the same problem with my power antenna, been meaning for years to fix it (mine's stuck in the "up" position)
 
Man I hope this thread still has legs...

So I did the mod and the locks give a healthy clunk but here's where I'm confused. My driver's side rear door lock works in reverse. All the other's work correctly. Looking at the wiring diagram and seeing how all the others work correctly this has me baffled. Now to be clear since they never worked before I don't know if someone messed around in the past and wired the actuator in backwards? Anyhow maybe there's something obvious I'm missing; chime in if you have any thoughts.
 
Alright so I opened up the door panel, unplugged the actuator and swapped the tan and green wires in the female connector, plugged it back in and everything works fine. Someone must have messed around in there years back.

Here's a tip. Run the 10 gauge wire from the starter solenoid lug to your power wires. I tried the other option of splicing into the red power wire that goes into the door and sometimes one lock would stick part way. When I wired in a new power wire they all slam open and closed with no issues.

There's small round hole, looks to be 1/4" on the side of the inner fender near the top where it meets the firewall and the hood. I drilled that out to fit in a rubber grommet to protect the wire. I popped out the rubber antenna bung behind the passenger side kick panel and since there is enough meat I carefully drilled a hole for the new wire. I fed the wire between the inner and outter fender. You can manipulate it with a coat hanger or hook of some kind as Greg mentioned through the gap between the two fenders when the passenger door is open. With that bung removed you can fit your index finger through the hole. Then just pull the wire through, feed it through the new hole in the rubber plug and re-install the plug. Don't forget to install a new 30A inline fuse.
 
This is where I am struggling. Can I run ALL ground wires stated to one ground location? The 87a, and 85 from each relay? I have the following:
87 receives power from 10ga with 30 amp fuse
86 receives tan or Lgreen from the door side
30 receives tan or Lgreen from the front side
87a and 85 are all grounds that run to the same ground point.(this is where I'm pretty sure I'm wrong)
 
Blown two 30 amps somehow. Then put back to original and only the passenger side door will try to even unlock, refuses to lock. Nothing from driver side.
 
Ok so what I've found is the tan line that runs the open is working fine. The light green line that runs the lock switch shorts out for some reason when power given directly to the circuit. I can't seem to figure out why.
 
At this point I know something is messed up in my wiring. I can get the passenger side to unlock all doors just fine when back to original wiring. However when I try to lock doors from passenger side I get no electronic response. The driver's side will also not unlock or lock electronically. On top of that if I supply power directly to the lock side of the wiring on the passenger solenoid it blows a 30amp fuse. I've opened the looms in and outside of the door, checked for contacting wires and found none. I repaired a small split in one of the insulating jackets but it didn't affect anything. Is there a fuse I am missing or is it possible my wiring has fused together somewhere and is causing this problem? I've also tried swapping relays which did nothing either. Any ideas appreciated.
 
start to test if the actuator circuit is fine: get a wire WITH A FUSE from 12V, contact the wire green_to_circuit and tan_to_circuit, BE CAREFULL one at time and for short time.
Test the signals from door: wiith a tester check if you receive 12V from tan_from_door and green_from_door (between wire to ground) when U actuating the doors switch, also here one at time.
If both test are fine U messed up with connection to relays.
 
Well, it looks like a few things happened when I tried the mod, thanks for all your help. I apologize for hijacking this thread a little bit.

1 - The switch on the driver side unlock and passenger side unlock somehow shorted out from the attempted mod. I was able to turn the drivers side switch set 180 degrees to get it to function until I am able to find one at the JY.

2 - The passenger side switch which shorted I was able to switch with the window switch on the passenger side to get it running until I get the new switches.

3 - The rear passenger door was probably the overall culprit for shorting everything as both wire contacts were exposed and grounding through each other.

That said, this mod is amazing and works well when your wiring system isn't shot!
 
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