Thread: electric fan?
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Old March 30th, 2010, 11:27
poomero poomero is offline
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Re: electric fan?

has anyone in the bay area done this upgrade. if so does anyone want to help me out and do it again???
Quote:
Originally Posted by fyrfytr1717 View Post
OK, here we go. I'm about 99% sure this is going to work correctly. I've taken info from all three of the threads and combined them to come up with the following wiring diagram. Now that I know we are in fact using the ELK-960 Delay Timer Module, I have something to work off of. This is essentially what the ELK tech guy told you (muddeprived) to do, with the addition of a relay to handle the power draw of the Radiator Fan. This is based off the wiring diagram from the FSM so part of the factory circuit is omitted. Hopefully it is big enough for you to make out.



Basically, we are creating a second fan control circuit using a New Relay. I'd recommend installing the relay in the engine compartment to cut down on the length of the heavier gauge power wire. The rest of the wiring can all be done with small gauge wire as the power draw of the relay coil and the timer module are very low.

One side of the New Relay gets tied to the battery using large gauge wire (the factory uses 12g, I'd recommend 10g). The other side gets tapped into the positive lead on the Radiator Fan, again using large gauge wire. If you tap into BATT F141 as shown in my diagram, you can leave out the fuse. If you connect directly to the battery, install an in-line 40amp fuse.

One side of the New Relay coil gets connected to a convenient ground. The other side gets connected to the Normally Open (N/O) terminal on the Delay Timer. If you are installing the Delay Timer in the passenger compartment, this wire will have to run from inside the vehicle, through the firewall, and out to the New Relay in the engine compartment.

The Positive (+) terminal on the Delay Timer gets tapped into a Constant 12V+ source. There are a few to choose from in the passenger compartment and all of them should already be fused by the factory system.

The Negative (-) terminal on the Delay Timer gets connected to a convenient Ground.

The Trigger (TGR) terminal gets tapped into an Ignition Switched 12V+ source. Doesn't matter what it is really, so long as it is hot when the ignition is on and dead when the ignition is off. Again, this should already be fused by the factory system.

The Common (COM) terminal simply gets jumped over to the Positive (+) terminal. This is where the Delay Timer's built in relay gets the power to send out through the N/O terminal.

That's it for the wiring. An easy place to access both a constant 12V+ and an ignition switched 12V+ would be at the switch panel below the HVAC controls. Red w/ Light Blue tracer on the back of the Power Outlet is constant. Solid Red on the back of the Cigar Lighter is ignition switched (technically Cigar Lighter Relay switched). The positive wire on the Radiator Fan should be a Light Blue 12g wire. The BATT F141 wire is Light Green w/ Red tracer 12g wire but can only be found within the PDC housing. These colors are all based on my '99 FSM, but I believe they are the same '97-'01.

As for the Delay Timer's jumper settings:
Jumper 1 gets set to "MIN" so you can run the fan for more than 60 seconds.
Jumper 2 gets set to "1-SHOT" so it doesn't continue to cycle on and off after the delay is over.
Jumper 3 gets set to "BEGIN" so the built-in relay turns ON when triggered.
Trigger Mode (Jumper 4) gets set to "A" so the relay is triggered when power is removed from the trigger terminal.
Trigger Polarity (Jumper 5) gets set to "+" as we are using an ignition switched 12V+ source as the trigger.
R3 gets set to the desired number of minutes (1-60) you want the fan to run.

The ELK-960 information also mentions that it automatically runs through a cycle when first powered up. I don't know for sure whether this means when the (+) terminal is first connected, or each time the (TGR) terminal is supplied with power. If it's the latter, be aware that your fan will run for the set amount of time each time you turn on your ignition. Hopefully this is not the case.

Well that about wraps it up. Hopefully this is fairly easy to understand and my diagram is at least somewhat legible at that size. Please post your results if you wire it up using the above instructions. I have no plans to use this mod myself as I have no heat soak issues, but would like to know for sure that this works correctly. Thanks!
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