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Strange startup issue

turbo supra

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Columbus, OH
I ran into a strange issue tonight. When I go to crank my '01 XJ everything dies... no radio, no lights, nothing. When I get out and lock it with the keyfob, I can get back in and turn on the ignition. At this point, the radio and lights all work. When I try to start it again, everything dies.


I checked the battery cables and the charge and everything seems to be fine. My best guess is the rain tonight is muffing something up or I activated the anti-thief while disabling my clockspring (It took a dump on me).


Any ideas on where to start?
 
....crank my '01 XJ everything dies... no radio, no lights, nothing. When I get out and lock it with the keyfob, I can get back in and turn on the ignition. At this point, the radio and lights all work. When I try to start it again, everything dies.

Seems like a low voltage issue from:

• dirty, corroded, or loose wire connections
• internally corroded battery wires
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)
Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Load testing the alternator is still recommended.

Exchange the ASD relay with the Starter relay in the fuse box under the hood near the battery.

Wiggle the automatic transmission lever in both Park and Neutral while trying to start. If it starts, you need to clean or replace the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS).

Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.
Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.
 
Thanks for the info. The battery was a bit low (11.8) but I ran it completely empty last week and havent driven it much since.

I took the wires out of the terminal and sanded them with a sanding block and re-pinched the wires. It has started up three times now without fail. Looks like I need some new heavy gauge wires.

The whole NO power thing through me for a loop. I assumed the worst.
 
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