My Mild MJ

cody4359 said:

Bummer, that reminds me that i still need to get a fire extiquishner ( spelled wrong...) or two mounted on either side of the cab.

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yea i have one in the passenger side foot area, just in reach of my hand. never know when something will go ablaze. its one of the first mods i did cause ive seen friends trucks go up in flames.

Finished floors. installed CSF 2 row rad, hesco hi flo t-stat housing tapped for sender, dakota digital pac 2700 fan controller, dirtbound offroad tripple fans, zj proportioning spring, fixed firewall, and a few other things

im starting to get tired of this truck. pulling the axles to sell and either putting the 8.8 back in or the 44 with elocker 4.56/ and assembling a spare d30 i have with 4.56 and a arb i have tucked away then more than likely looking at selling it

ill give it a new on the cheap..

Great looking truck. That visor looked really good on there.

Got the 22 gallon dakota tank in and wired up. So far it seems to be doing the job. I picked up a early ranger fuel filler neck im going to have to modify, it has the fuel filler/vent all in one.

Trying to tighten up the front end so it will drive down the road good. A while back i swapped out track bars, my IRO bar had a 7/16 sleeve but at that point i didnt have bolt/nut combo that woul work for tightning it, other than stock. Yesterday i dropped the bar, pushed the sleeve out and grabbed some DOM tubing i had laying around.



This axle was from a wrangler, and from what ive picked up they use 13mm hardware for their trak bars. The axle bracket hole was already 9/16, so i went to tacoma screw and grabbed a 9/16x4" bolt, nut, washer, and extra thick washer, and lock washer. Cut the bolt down to about 3 1/4" and that let the shoulder part go thru both sides of the bracket so the threads won't wallow the hole out, by using the extra thick washer and lock washer i can get a 7/8" wrench on it so now welding a tab wasnt needed. Put the tubing on the lathe and knocked it down to .875", drilled it out to 9/16 and cut it down to 1.625".



Steering is much tighter now, but its never that easy. Just checked the balljoints and they have play. They are next on the list, than a alingment. Thinking of spicer balljoints or Xrf balljoints

Lowered it about 1/2", and put the sway bar back on. Handles the fwy fine now.

Last week i scored some clean 2dr big bolster seats, and today my new 5125s showed up.

Glad I'm not the only one who loves those seats.

They are great for a stock seat.

Sweet truck man. I dig the white.

Love your MJ. Makes me wanna build one.

Thanks, always nice to hear that someone likes my POS lol. Since i put the CSF radiator in, while driving it run way to cold, like 150*. Im in the middle of putting the ac condensor on to block a little air, but got distracted by having the header panel off so i put my old xj recovery hooks on until i get another winch bumper. Tomorow ill take it out and see if i blocked enough cold air, if not ill have to put a little more thought into it and make something nice, yet removable

cody4359 said:

Thanks, always nice to hear that someone likes my POS lol. Since i put the CSF radiator in, while driving it run way to cold, like 150*. Im in the middle of putting the ac condensor on to block a little air, but got distracted by having the header panel off so i put my old xj recovery hooks on until i get another winch bumper. Tomorow ill take it out and see if i blocked enough cold air, if not ill have to put a little more thought into it and make something nice, yet removable

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Is that when the thermostat opens? Or stays that way the entire time?

Just when its open, i believe i put a 190* or 195* tstat in, and ive programed the fans to come on around 205*. Sitting and idleling, once to temp it stays right at 210*, but even driving 20-30 mph it drops right down. Before i got it, i read that it did such a good job people were running to cold, so putting the ac condensor on the blocka little air is the first step.

I know on go jeeps page he's mention adding a washer to slow the flow down a bit. Don't know if that's a good way to do it but ya restricting air flow is good. You don't hone one of those high flow water pumps do you?

No, i was going to get one just to have one. i did a little research and read one article stating a high flow pump claiming to flow say 20% more fluid really wouldnt help cooling because it would be pushing the coolant thru the radiator faster, giving it less time for heat transfer. That made sense to me, but im aware tha some pumps are more efficent and free up a little HP.
I ended up getting a hesco hi flow tstat housing since it was tapped for the temp sender i used for the fan programmer.

Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open. If the coolant temp drops below 190 a properly working thermostat will close, taking the radiator out of the equation.

Got distracted again by trying to dial my hunting gun in today, i think im close. 2nd load gave me a 3/8" group at 100 yds.



The thermostat makes sense, but it was a brand new t-stat so i find that hard to believe that i was bad out of the box, but i know it is possible. Once i get things back together, if its still running to cold i guess i should go tonthe stealership and get a new one.

Was it a dealership stat or another? Aftermarket seems to have a high fail rate right out of the box.