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Colorado B/S Thread

Re: The Colorado BS thread

I'm guessing not because your on the extreme end of building, but does this not effect the efficiency of your steering, knuckles/angle?
I'm getting you plan to align caster with DS first, the rest is second thought or doesn't matter for your set up?
Eager to see how it turns out!

You throw off your caster with a double cardan shaft since you point your pumpkin up at the case yoke , so unless you rotate your inner C you throw off your caster you don't point your pinion up like that with a single cardan shaft. Drive shaft phase isn't a big concern up front fir me since it's never seeing speed and when on road the hubs arent locked so shaft balancei isn't an issue . I can travel my current 1310 shafts full cycle no binding , but the 1310 is kinda small joints and not a real confidence builder , however a 1350 dc joint uses the same centering ball as the 1310 and it has less misalignment capability so it may bind and that's what's going snap joints ... so a big single u joint like a 1410 should offer more travel before bind , but I may be missing something, but from a glance it looks like a single u joint shaft works better than dc joint here , and it should even add length to my drive shaft since it takes up less room at the case than a DC joint .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

the reason is they provide more angle than a double

Not quite.

CV's actually provide more angle than singles.

1310's have more angle than 1350s and a little less than 1410.

I am now running 1350's up front (1410 wouldn't fit on a D300), and had to do a bit of yoke clearancing to get my shaft to not bind at full droop (which even then both sides in full droop would be very rare to happen on the trail).

I got rid of the CV for simplicity, and the weak centering ball.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Not quite.

CV's actually provide more angle than singles.

1310's have more angle than 1350s and a little less than 1410.

I am now running 1350's up front (1410 wouldn't fit on a D300), and had to do a bit of yoke clearancing to get my shaft to not bind at full droop (which even then both sides in full droop would be very rare to happen on the trail).

I got rid of the CV for simplicity, and the weak centering ball.

I was under the impression the dc allowed more working vibration free angle as they split the angle between the two u joints , but didn't actually yield more movement before bind ... and the 1410 due to size allows the most . My case accepts 1410s easily... may have to massage the cross member a bit but they bolt onto the atlas...At the moment nothing binds as I built my 1310s out of a,WJ and XJ cardan shaft and used a 4200 dremmel while on the Jeep to open them up a bit . These 1310 probably will put up with more than most think since they don't bind which is the source of most broken shafts ,but I just want piece of mind .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Sweet my RCV shafts show shipped through FedEx...next day off they will be here and I can polish the front end. The biggest PITA up front left is trimming , weld filling and blending all the frame plate sections to look like one neat rail not 6 sections of angle Iron welded to the rail ...lol... it doesn't make it any stronger , but it's cosmetics kinda thing when looking under her skirt.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Sweet my RCV shafts show shipped through FedEx...next day off they will be here and I can polish the front end. The biggest PITA up front left is trimming , weld filling and blending all the frame plate sections to look like one neat rail not 6 sections of angle Iron welded to the rail ...lol... it doesn't make it any stronger , but it's cosmetics kinda thing when looking under her skirt.

Under her skirt? More like the damn Iron Curtian :conceited
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Under her skirt? More like the damn Iron Curtian :conceited

:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao: :yelclap:
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I'm guessing not because your on the extreme end of building, but does this not effect the efficiency of your steering, knuckles/angle?
I'm getting you plan to align caster with DS first, the rest is second thought or doesn't matter for your set up?
Eager to see how it turns out!

If you're running full hydro and are really only using the rig as a crawler, doesn't matter *that* much.

I put my caster at ~+10° when I put my new Inner C's on.

My yoke is also pointed pretty far up.

Some (maybe most) rig (crawler) builders will have a joint at/near max angle upwards at full stuff. That way you get the most angle possible when drooping without bind.

I was under the impression the dc allowed more working vibration free angle as they split the angle between the two u joints , but didn't actually yield more movement before bind ... and the 1410 due to size allows the most . My case accepts 1410s easily... may have to massage the cross member a bit but they bolt onto the atlas...At the moment nothing binds as I built my 1310s out of a,WJ and XJ cardan shaft and used a 4200 dremmel while on the Jeep to open them up a bit . These 1310 probably will put up with more than most think since they don't bind which is the source of most broken shafts ,but I just want piece of mind .

Think of it like this IIRC:

A 1310 is good for ~30°. If the CV allows for each 1310 to go 20°, you still get 40° overall.

The 1350 is "maxed" around 20°. I clearanced mine to get about 37° or a hair more (about even with a 1410).
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

1350 has less available angle in a driveshaft than a 1310?
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Ordering new trailer axles but not sure the time will be there to put my trailer back together b4 labor day weekend , so I do believe I've found a solution with A-J time rentals at $80 a day they have trailers made wide enough and heavy enough for the Iron Curtain...Figure it's worth the $240-320 for 3-4 days so I don't need to cut corners on the rig to get the trailer rolling with short time...lol... I'd rent a uhaul but don't want to be trying to fit 10lbs of shit in a 5lb bag
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

My gas tank is relocated thru the floor. I had every intention of mounting my battery back there between the tank and the rear seat but a buddy of mine was acting like I was crazy for doing so. Am I? Hell idk but I dont want this bursting into a fiery ball of death on the trail. Plus the kid sits back there. I have a cutoff switch that'll be on there, that should prevent any sparking when hooking the cable up. What do you guys think? The other option is between the front and rear seat on the floor but really didn't want it there. Fits much better in the empty space out back.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

My gas tank is relocated thru the floor. I had every intention of mounting my battery back there between the tank and the rear seat but a buddy of mine was acting like I was crazy for doing so. Am I? Hell idk but I dont want this bursting into a fiery ball of death on the trail. Plus the kid sits back there. I have a cutoff switch that'll be on there, that should prevent any sparking when hooking the cable up. What do you guys think? The other option is between the front and rear seat on the floor but really didn't want it there. Fits much better in the empty space out back.


Mounting a battery in well made properly secured tray shouldn't pose much of a risk with everything secured. You can even cover the battery . I got 3 optima batteries I may put the two I have not installed in the back I have no worries about blowing up since my batteries would be installed like the front in a battery box that is not going anywhere and my rollover valve works in my tank so it's not gushing fuel out anyway...In a side note my optima fits very easily up front where the off and coolant tank was before the strut towers ...
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

As long as your battery is secured, and terminals aren't open (e.g. nothing could fall across them), there's little worry.

The only issue I'd have would be if not running an AGM / Gel Cell the off gassing you might get. Even then, unless the rig is fully closed off...meh.

My battery is about a foot from my fuel cell in the buggy.

It would have to do some serious stuff to even move an inch.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I just happen to have Two extra brand new Yellow top optima batteries sitting would make a good deal on one much cheaper than even a store brand .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I got a battery hold down/box from chassis unlimited. Planning on putting a piece of umhw or something over the top to keep anything from shorting. The battery I have has been getting old and has been starting to puke some acid out so been planning on the AGM route.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

The RCV shafts went very easily they did not require any "modification to fit the hub vs the Yukons they replaced where I had to cut off about 1/2 inch off the end of the stub shaft and cut a new groove for the snap ring . The only issue I had was the passenger side that was the first side I did my ori strut mount over the knuckle and I left almost no room to remove the king pin cap vs the passenger side I decided to raise it about 3/32 higher since I learned my lesson on the first mount ...so it took some pry bar action to squish the cap between the spring eliminator and bottom of the ori . If I had to do it over I would assemble the driver side on the Jeep to not have to fight the tight clearance of my king pin cap and strut mount ...But removing the knuckle and installing the boots off the Jeep makes them very easy as you just simply slip a piece of tube over the shaft and tap the seal onto the cv bell then slide the shafts home in the axle.

The Yukons still look brand new the spline show no sign of deforming and the joints are reasonably tight ...I'll provably end up keeping these as spares since my housing is the 78-79 making them a hard sell as most people don't have that year , but if I didn't break the Yukons these are very unlikely to go anytime soon.
 
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