• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Colorado B/S Thread

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Any thoughts on... why not... I'm looking at gathering parts for a 360 5.9 magnum swap into my xj the donor 5.9 im looking at would be a very low miles 5.9 from a 1998 a zj this puts things like the starter on the passenger side and the mildly built 46rh I would use would require no electronics and since my atlas was ordered for a tJ with long 23 spline input I would not need any case changes just remove the spacer I put on to accommodate the aw4 short 23. I would warm it up a bit before installing the stick power is 245/345 If I recall from the 5.9 zj upping the hp to 300/400 would be fairly cheap and should still put out the torque at useable low rpm...The electronics such as my gauge cluster should work off the mopar motor as well . This of course would be more work than a stroker ,but probably cheaper for the actual power and less stuff Ned to be swapped vs a Chevy motor that bolts to nothing I have like my transfercase.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Any thoughts on... why not... I'm looking at gathering parts for a 360 5.9 magnum swap into my xj the donor 5.9 im looking at would be a very low miles 5.9 from a 1998 a zj this puts things like the starter on the passenger side and the mildly built 46rh I would use would require no electronics and since my atlas was ordered for a tJ with long 23 spline input I would not need any case changes just remove the spacer I put on to accommodate the aw4 short 23. I would warm it up a bit before installing the stick power is 245/345 If I recall from the 5.9 zj upping the hp to 300/400 would be fairly cheap and should still put out the torque at useable low rpm...The electronics such as my gauge cluster should work off the mopar motor as well . This of course would be more work than a stroker ,but probably cheaper for the actual power and less stuff Ned to be swapped vs a Chevy motor that bolts to nothing I have like my transfercase.

Yeah...hard pass on a 5.9.

If I'm going to that much work, I'll put something in there worth it.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Yeah...hard pass on a 5.9.

If I'm going to that much work, I'll put something in there worth it.

That's an opinion based statement with no factual reasoning behind the statement . I realize the stock hp is low but the torque is not and it takes very little to make good power that does the job ...lol...not saying I'm set on a 5.9 swap , but it does not look terrible infact I would think it beats a mildly warmed up 5.3 since it pisses on a 5.3 with torque .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

That's an opinion based statement with no factual reasoning behind the statement.

You sure about that?

Let's see...ZJ 5.9L - ~250HP stock.

5.3 (not even a 6.0) - ~270HP stock.

5.9 years (in the ZJ) - 1

5.3 years - loooots.

Aftermarket support (wiring harnesses, adapters, build packages, etc. etc. etc.) - 5.3 by a looooong shot
Easier to find - 5.3
Easy to get much better numbers out of - 5.3

50% of the 5.9's I've known/been around...had issues. I don't personally see the 5.9L as all that reliable.

However, the LM7 and 6.0L series have well and beyond proven themselves.

So, again, even if I had a free 5.9...still wouldn't swap it in.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Pisses?

5.3 - 315
5.9 - 345

Not exactly that big of a difference.

What rpm ...i can at at trail use they're not close especially after a warm up where as the warm up on 5.3 loses torque and puts the power band at high rpm where it's not real useful

You don't need a ton of rework for things like gauges since a 1998 5.9 zj should work with the 1999 xj gauge unlike a gm motor .


That said if o need a motor quick I'm going to find a stick 4.0 to pop in because I have the cash buy not the time to waste right now on a motor swap done right...I have spotted a couple low low mile full pull gm 6.2 motor to t case for around 5k... that's really what I want and that should be next year in the fall...lol... need to wheel this year and do ejs before I start the motor swap adventure
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

The 5.0 gearing of my atlas makes for a whopping max 28-30 mph wheel speed at red line rpm which is fine for 90% of the trails , but for an obstacle such as devils hot tub it's going to be less than ideal and with a 4.0 hi range is not useful ... So I think the solution to my power needs is either an NWF Black box or selling my almost new atlas 5.0 and swap in an atlas 4 spd case .When I had the 2.72 stock np 231 gears I had all the power I needed for hill climbs with a 50+ mph wheel speed ability it just didn't have the goods for crawling , so rather than a v8 I think more transfercase gearing is the solution and a 4.6 stroker later on would work well with that for extra power. This option also makes for fairly quick install and I don't have re fabricate anything major .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

The Diagnostic shop finally got back to me. I asked if I could have them set up the scope again so that they, or I could get some pictures. they were not interested. Instead they said they had a check there waiting for me as a refund and if I figure it out they'd like to know what the issue was. For such a quick procedure, I would think within 15 minutes we could have it set up pictures taken and be done with it, but they were completely uninterested, that's a bit odd to me.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Doesn't sound like much of a diagnostic shop! Sounds like a bunch of chumps that are too lazy to mess with it. I have never just thrown in the towel on someone's car and told them "let me know if you ever fix it"
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Well at least it's money back for someone to scope it again, but the harder part is finding somone that knows what they are doing.

Anyone think foco jeep dealership mechanics/techs are likely knowlegable on scopes?
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Well at least it's money back for someone to scope it again, but the harder part is finding somone that knows what they are doing.

Anyone think foco jeep dealership mechanics/techs are likely knowlegable on scopes?

Not unless you find their diag guy. And then...maybe. seems like fewer people these days can even tell you what youre looking at on a scope. You might call around and tell them exactly what you want and expect. They might turn you away but know someone who can help.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Cps...had metal dust shavings on it from this past years work. Replaced with new cps anyway put old one away for spare.

O2 wiring short fixed ...this happened during test drive as I did not secure the o2 sensor wiring by the exhaust.

Broken coolant tetemp sensor replaced. This had been broken for awhile and is my cause for running rich and the fouled spark plugs from running rich.

After all these were fixed and I put in my new injectors the p1391 was gone and it started first crank which it has never done I credit the new injectors for ridding me of the 20 second crank with need to put the fuel pedal to the floor to start when warm ... However it still idled funny like a miss and like when my fuel pump was taking a shit , so with truck running I was holding the section of fuel line right off the pump and felt a vibration so I pulled the pump as when I felt this the jeep would funny idle . Upon pulling the pump I found the strainer broken off the base misaligned blocking the pump pick-up...problemsolved. I'm going to take the pump to oriellys and see if they'll honor the limited lifetime warranty as the strainer will not go back on and the float for fuel level will not raise with fuel level when in tank...if they don't I'll buy a new one and keep this as a running spare for emergency.
 
Last edited:
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Welding front dana 60 axle tubes to pumpkin question...can this be done without melting the seals ?

I ask because I planned to pull and replace these seals since the passenger side was letting some oil out when I put my new knuckles on , but don't want to do it until my new RCV shafts arrive so I can do it all at once . The front seals are right in the pumpkin/tube area where I'd be welding I'd hate to weld the tubes up and end up with a bad leak from melting the seals and have to fix it before I'm ready to pull everything, so has anyone welded front axle tubes with the seals still in ?
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Welding front dana 60 axle tubes to pumpkin question...can this be done without melting the seals ?

I ask because I planned to pull and replace these seals since the passenger side was letting some oil out when I put my new knuckles on , but don't want to do it until my new RCV shafts arrive so I can do it all at once . The front seals are right in the pumpkin/tube area where I'd be welding I'd hate to weld the tubes up and end up with a bad leak from melting the seals and have to fix it before I'm ready to pull everything, so has anyone welded front axle tubes with the seals still in ?

When I recently did mine, I had planned on replacing them anyhow since they're pretty easy.

After welding I pulled them, and honestly they looked 100% fine. That was with preheating to 400-500°F.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

When I recently did mine, I had planned on replacing them anyhow since they're pretty easy.

After welding I pulled them, and honestly they looked 100% fine. That was with preheating to 400-500°F.


I plan to replace them as one was done in 2017 one was done when I shattered the stock inner in 2011 and that one leaks a bit so I'm doing both this time. However I don't want to do them until my new shafts arrive since the work involved is not hard but kinda time consuming
and the seal replacement only 1 extra step by removing the carrier to access the seals ...lol... in 2011 I was still very strong and the d60 carrier felt like paper weight , but the last time in 2017... not so much . But I kinda figured with the tubes being .500 wall that the heat wouldn't get into the rubber of the seal since it's not even directly on the tube as the seal has the metal press fit onto the tube. I have yet to bother with the 300-400 degree pre heat just clean off the tubes to bare metal and maybe a propane torch to get oil burnt out of the press fit so it doesn't get in my weld I did the 14 outside in 40 degree weather no preheat just peened it after and wrap and no cracks .
 
Last edited:
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I bought the fancy hobo welding hood last time for about $140 instead of a $40 hobo hood ... well the cheap hobo hoods solar charge and the super dooper $140 one does not so with only 1 hood in my possession the battery went dead and I have plenty of coin batteries just not the one for the hobo hood , so with a 2+ hour round trip to acquire a battery my day of cleaning up the front frame rail plating that I've pit off since I roughed them on was done...lol... I also found out I left my nitrogen tank open and it has slowly leaked empty I found this out when I went to raise the struts to open up some space to get easier access to the frame rail for work .

I after having my day shot by a dead battery powered welding hood decided to do the grind and flap wheel work without a protective cover over the auto darkening shade and will now exercise my warranty that's almost up and get a brand new hobo hood...and some extra coin batteries of that type ...lol... can't believe the cheap ones solar charge and the pricey one does not have that .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Hey folks, I ran across an 87 Wagoneer like mine for sale today on Facebook, guy can't get a title and wants to part it out or sell it. It needs to saved!!!

Super nice looking, 87 Wagoneer, D-44 rear Ltd Ed, 4x4 with all the bells and whistles for distressed sale up north, NY area I think?

https://www.facebook.com/groups/773...8470487&notif_t=group_comment_reply&ref=notif

Last registered in 1992, used as a snow blow till last year :sunshine:. Jeep guy that bought it wants to give up over the title issue (and minor piddly stuff that needs fixing). Ready to sell it or parts.

Its a Jeep Wagoneer group on Facebook. 1987 Wagoneer Ltd

Pass the word, that rig needs to be saved, It is almost exactly like mine, except the wood trim out side.

Salvage title is not that hard to get in Texas IIRC, or use a mechanics lean or??? Or collectors title? Colorado I have no idea?

Pass the word folks, please we need to save this one!!!
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I'm considering a single cardan front drive shaft with either 1410 yokes at both ends or a 1350/1410combo the reason is they provide more angle than a double and the way my mounts are set up on the axle I get more misalignment out of my struts as I can set the pinion yoke flat and this puts the strut rod end at center at ride height . This should allow proper angle for a single cardan shaft and should be stronger...and much cheaper than a double and take up less space than a double at the case. I figure even if it doesn't run perfect it's only engaged in slow speed stuff for the front.

Amywho... just looking to see what the thoughts are before I order my yoked and stub shaft to build these .I ave 1310 dc I clearenced with a dremmel they don't bind but they are 1310s and don't give me confidence with heavy right foot when needed vs the rest of drivetrain which is now all top shelf parts .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I'm guessing not because your on the extreme end of building, but does this not effect the efficiency of your steering, knuckles/angle?
I'm getting you plan to align caster with DS first, the rest is second thought or doesn't matter for your set up?
Eager to see how it turns out!
 
Back
Top