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Minimum for 33"

jeepin_al

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tucson, AZ
I want to go to 33" tires and know where the power switch is for the cutting wheel, how much do I have to lift/cut for 33" tires? I just can't stand driving such a short vehicle and I know I am going to eat it pretty bad with how little skid protection is underneath the Jeep the first time I take it out. It is a 2 door 89 if that makes a difference. Any ideas are helpful, I already have a 2" front/1.75" BB (blocks) with bar pin eliminators so that would be free but I think I need more then 2" to get 33's under there even with cutting as much as possible, I am nervous with the 31's going on it now.
 
since its a 2 door you should be able to take the sawzall to it (alot!) and make enough room for 33's. im at 5" and had to trim very little to clear 33's. ive seen it done on a 3" lift by a few people here on the board. i would think that since its a 2 door, you could trim more than on a 4 door. good luck.
 
Being a two door is an advantage, however I would say at least 3-3.5" with decent cutting. I have a 2" lift with 31s right now and before I trimmed to the pinch seam, the tires rubbed when I flexed it out with the swaybars disco'd. So I would say with the 2" you have you would have to hack a lot.
 
I don't think you can cut enough to clear 33's and still have it look good. You are going to need at least 4.5 to 5" to clear 33's, and that is if you use bump stops.



Patrick
 
You do know cherokees are unibody, right? 2-door or 4-door doesnt really matter, anytime you cut out pinch welds and other body welds without reinforcing or replacing material you weaken the structural integrity of the jeep.

So...cut right up to welds and no further if you want it to last.
 
jpnjason said:
You do know cherokees are unibody, right? 2-door or 4-door doesnt really matter, anytime you cut out pinch welds and other body welds without reinforcing or replacing material you weaken the structural integrity of the jeep.

So...cut right up to welds and no further if you want it to last.
ok, if I cut to the pinch seams, and I will be running bumpstop extensions front and rear, how much lift for 33" tires and still have some flex if not the same flex as a 31" tire. As for the unibody, I am not too famililar, I understand the structure but not all the dynamics, that is why I am asking the guys who have been running these. My TJ was running a 2" lift and 32" tires without bumpstops for the longest time. I got lots of rub but I don't want to tear up my tires on the XJ fenders so I figure to trim. Too bad I can't just put a 1" bodylift on it (I know, it's a unibody, but I couldn't help it). Thanks for the help, this isn't going to be a final lift, I just want to be taller then a 2wd Ranger and get some clearance for the unprotected underside of the XJ. I appreciate it, AL
 
jeepin_al said:
ok, if I cut to the pinch seams, and I will be running bumpstop extensions front and rear, how much lift for 33" tires and still have some flex if not the same flex as a 31" tire. As for the unibody, I am not too famililar, I understand the structure but not all the dynamics, that is why I am asking the guys who have been running these. My TJ was running a 2" lift and 32" tires without bumpstops for the longest time. I got lots of rub but I don't want to tear up my tires on the XJ fenders so I figure to trim. Too bad I can't just put a 1" bodylift on it (I know, it's a unibody, but I couldn't help it). Thanks for the help, this isn't going to be a final lift, I just want to be taller then a 2wd Ranger and get some clearance for the unprotected underside of the XJ. I appreciate it, AL

i'd go with an RE 4.5 kit with full leafs and some trimming. you won't have to do any major trimming, but flareless would be best + bumpstops. to maintain as much drop with a 4.5", i would consider a LA kit, but its not that neccessary. you could always use DB's.

HTH
brandon
also check out this site for fender trimming, its not as extreme as people making radial cuts in the rear fenders
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/fender_trimming.htm
 
I run a 3.5" lift with 285's (33x11.50). I trimmed up to the pinch seam in the rear and a bunch more on the front. I run 16x8 rims with 4.25BS. I don't rub front or rear now. I had to add 3" bumpstops in the front but might take it down to 2", and don't even have bumpstops in the rear. It works great. I'd stick with 4.25 or 4.5 BS. You don't want to trim past the pinch seam in the rear unless you have a cage tied into everything to take over the structural aspect of the body.
 
shimmy said:
i'd go with an RE 4.5 kit with full leafs and some trimming. you won't have to do any major trimming, but flareless would be best + bumpstops. to maintain as much drop with a 4.5", i would consider a LA kit, but its not that neccessary. you could always use DB's.

HTH
brandon
also check out this site for fender trimming, its not as extreme as people making radial cuts in the rear fenders
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/fender_trimming.htm

what is an LA kit?
 
I run 33x12.50's on 4 3/4" BS wheels. 4 1/2" measured lift in front, ~ 4" in the rear. No fender flares,trimmed an inch or so around the front wheel opening, got crazy with the hammer-trimmer (BFH) around the forward and back edge of the rear wheel opening. 2 hocky pucks in the front and MJ bumpstops in the rear.
 
jpnjason said:
You do know cherokees are unibody, right? 2-door or 4-door doesnt really matter, anytime you cut out pinch welds and other body welds without reinforcing or replacing material you weaken the structural integrity of the jeep.

So...cut right up to welds and no further if you want it to last.


Being a 2 door does matter. Having a 2 door allows you to cut higher and make new tubes because there is no door there.
 
There's a lot of variables to this question to have a simple answer. How wide are the tires, what backspacing do you have on the wheel, where are your bumpstops set, stock or longer control arms, stock, aftermarket, or no flares?

My thoughts are to cut as little as possible and still be effective. For my rear fender wells I cut up to the pinch seam, then hammered over the lowerfront and rear part that remained. For the front I cut along the lines between the flat area with flare mounting holes and the short angle part that goes back to the rest of the fender. I also trimmed the front of the fender even with the bottom of the light bezel. Last thing is to hammer over the pinch seem thats in the center of the fender well.
 
Not to hijack this thread, but where I live, I need to keep fender flares in tact for my inspection. So could I get away 4.5 or 5 " kit and run 33's on a 4.5 BS and minimal trimmig with retaining stock flares, or should I just get cut-outs and be done with it?
 
Just north of Doylestown. If I stil owned an inspection station, I could "lick-it and stick it" but I don't. Just trying to figure out a legal way to do, already pushing the legality with my Super Duty and really I just don't need the hassle any more.
 
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