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hp dana 44/standard dana 44 and deep gears for 37's???

Big Red

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Roscoe, IL 61073
I'm getting a hp 44 to replace the hp 30 in my 91' xj with 8" lift and 35's. The axle I'm getting is the rare 78' f-150 camper with leafs so I want to conv to leafs up front as well and keep things simple. I will need to gear this thing and my rear xj dana 44 that currently has 4.56 and a full detroit. I plan to run 37" mtrs on some beadlocks rims. I have this setup on my CJ7 buggy I'm trying to sell, but want it on my xj. What gears would you guys recogmend for 37's? I could keep 35's, but since I have to gear the hp anyways I want to go nice and deep with them. How much strength am I giving up by going with 5.13 or 5.23 5.38 or so? I don't think I'll like the 4.56 gears with 37's, with 35's I wish I had 4.88 or 5.13's. This hp has a lock rite in it, but I think I will get a spool for it for simplicty and since I have lock out hubs, I shouldn't feel it in 2wd right?
Troy
 
Go 5:38s. Dont look back. I dont know about spoolin it, but i would do that over a lock right. It will just be a pain to always have to lock and unlock a hub.


Matt
 
No experience with 5.38s but I reccomend them. It is what I want to run if i go 37s maybe even 35s. I loved running 4.56s with 31s so this would be close.-----Kyle
 
5.38s, leave the lockright.


you have an ARB front now, try locking it and running a whole trail. no fun. one time last summer on the Rubicon I was getting seriously ****ed off at my steering, I thought my pump had completely died. Turns out I had just left the ARB locked.
 
Big Red said:
I'm getting a hp 44 to replace the hp 30 in my 91' xj with 8" lift and 35's. The axle I'm getting is the rare 78' f-150 camper with leafs so I want to conv to leafs up front as well and keep things simple. I will need to gear this thing and my rear xj dana 44 that currently has 4.56 and a full detroit. I plan to run 37" mtrs on some beadlocks rims. I have this setup on my CJ7 buggy I'm trying to sell, but want it on my xj. What gears would you guys recogmend for 37's? I could keep 35's, but since I have to gear the hp anyways I want to go nice and deep with them. How much strength am I giving up by going with 5.13 or 5.23 5.38 or so? I don't think I'll like the 4.56 gears with 37's, with 35's I wish I had 4.88 or 5.13's. This hp has a lock rite in it, but I think I will get a spool for it for simplicty and since I have lock out hubs, I shouldn't feel it in 2wd right?
Troy


Spool in the front.......37's, I assume on Spicer axles........who you gonna wheel with?


Inchitis.........oh so prevalent.

Spoken facitiously......."I'm getting strong enough axles to handle the tires I'm running now.....so I think I'll go ahead and get bigger tires"

D44.....front leaf springs......37's........one step forward, two steps back....not even mentioning the spool.

Mike, relax, take it easy, this is not a competition......this is for fun, and fun means increasing capability AND reliability. Your plan comes close to doing neither. :)
 
Goatman said:
Spool in the front.......37's, I assume on Spicer axles........who you gonna wheel with?


Inchitis.........oh so prevalent.

Spoken facitiously......."I'm getting strong enough axles to handle the tires I'm running now.....so I think I'll go ahead and get bigger tires"

D44.....front leaf springs......37's........one step forward, two steps back....not even mentioning the spool.

Mike, relax, take it easy, this is not a competition......this is for fun, and fun means increasing capability AND reliability. Your plan comes close to doing neither. :)
Goatman has some great points. When I had my D44 and Toyota 8" swapped I started shopping for tires. The inchitis kept telling me to get 37s, afterall the rear would be fine and I would probably only break front shafts occasionally. But be honest with yourself here, 37s alone are only going to make you about 5% more capable on the trail than 35s. Spending time actually wheelin instead of constantly switching drivetrain or repairing parts will make you 50% more capable on the trail. I'd much rather have my truck on 35s and not be afraid of breaking, it makes wheeling so much more relaxing and enjoyable.

stay smaller, learn to drive. look at Jes, how many years did he spend doing Rubicon, Fordyce, JV on 33s?
 
I'm running 36"s with 4.56 and an auto. Still too tall so I've ordered a 4.3 Atlas. If you are not going to change the tcase ratio then you are going to need much deeper gears than 4.56. it'll work but not nearly as well as it should.
 
Also just like above, Im running 36" Iroks with 4.88"s snd need more. An Atlas would be GREAT! Go with the 5.13's and stay with the 35"s :)
 
Thanks you guys. I have the 37's on the beadlock rims on my CJ right now that is for sale. I would keep my 35's if I didn't have these. I know I've been talking about swapping in a new drivetrain, but after this 1 I'll be done. I promise. :) I really like my arb in my 30, but like Brett and other have been saying, the 30 doesn't have lock out hubs, weird unit bearing non serviceable hubs, bad brake options, no super good high steer options, weak flexy housing etc etc. I got the ford 9" with a detroit and 3.50 gears, a pair of spare shafts both sides, hp 44 with a lock rite 3.50 gears on flat arms, all steering both driveshafts, a set of chrome 5 on 5.5 rims for $800. The lockers alone in these axle are close to that price new.

Will the hp 44 be able to live with 5.38 gears and 37's? I know the ford 9" will, it has such a strong r&p.
Troy
 
BrettM said:
5.38s, leave the lockright.


you have an ARB front now, try locking it and running a whole trail. no fun. one time last summer on the Rubicon I was getting seriously ****ed off at my steering, I thought my pump had completely died. Turns out I had just left the ARB locked.

Do you think the lock rite will hold up to 35-37's with 5.38 gears? What is the ford 9" gear ratio to match that? I know they have different gear #'s than dana axles. I know I hate steering with my arb on. I wonder how much hydro steering would help. I might just stay with my 35's. My goal is to have a more reliable rig, eventhough I have never broken a u-joint, axle shaft, or ds yet. I have blown a motor and a tranny in water though. Water is very dangerous. :mad: The 1st river crossing on Fordyce really freaks me out. I know that a dana 44 or ford 9" don't hang down extremely low and that 35's would probably be good and make them almost bullet proof. The 37's would look so good and I have then so I'll have to see.
Troy
 
Last edited:
Goatman said:
Oops! Meant Troy...... :wave:



:D

Michael actually is my middle name, how'd you know Richard??? :)
 
Big Red said:
Do you think the lock rite will hold up to 35-37's with 5.38 gears? What is the ford 9" gear ratio to match that? I know they have different gear #'s than dana axles. I know I hate steering with my arb on. I wonder how much hydro steering would help. I might just stay with my 35's. My goal is to have a more reliable rig, eventhough I have never broken a u-joint, axle shaft, or ds yet. I have blown a motor and a tranny in water though. Water is very dangerous. :mad: The 1st river crossing on Fordyce really freaks me out. I know that a dana 44 or ford 9" don't hang down extremely low and that 35's would probably be good and make them almost bullet proof. The 37's would look so good and I have then so I'll have to see.
Troy
the lockright will be fine on 37s. 9" uses 5.43 gears I believe. the gear sets on both will be fine with 37s. I think that answers all your questions.

now... You just said you want it to be reliable. What shortcomings did you find in your current setup? Will this actually solve those without creating more problems? Just because you got a good deal on some stuff doesn't mean you need to run it, especially if you're going to run it half-assed.

If you want to run those 37s anything less than the following I would consider half-assed;

-D44, alloy shafts and joints
-9", bigger shafts and/or alloy shafts
-5.xx gears
-significant uni-body beefing
 
BrettM said:
the lockright will be fine on 37s. 9" uses 5.43 gears I believe. the gear sets on both will be fine with 37s. I think that answers all your questions.

now... You just said you want it to be reliable. What shortcomings did you find in your current setup? Will this actually solve those without creating more problems? Just because you got a good deal on some stuff doesn't mean you need to run it, especially if you're going to run it half-assed.

If you want to run those 37s anything less than the following I would consider half-assed;

-D44, alloy shafts and joints
-9", bigger shafts and/or alloy shafts
-5.xx gears
-significant uni-body beefing

You're still up? I'm going to bed. Thanks for answering my questions Brett. My current set up is fine, I really like the ARB. I have 2 pairs of complete inner and outer 297 shafts for them and a pair of dana 44 shafts. I know I can get a good $$$ for my axles and the hp 44 and full width ford 9" are hard to pass up. I might run the 35's. I agree with you when you say that you would have been happy with 33's for the Sierra trails we hit. I'm getting some quotes on alloy shafts and CTMs for the 44, but the ford 9" stock I think will be good to go with 31 spline shafts, 5.43 gears and a full detroit. I'm very easy on my jeep and with the auto and 200 hp of the 4.0L, I think it will be fine. Why do things get so much more complex moving from 35's to 37's. They aren't that much different are they? With the leaf springs and the rear SOA, I think 35's will work because I will not be dragging my lower control arms mounts and rear xj shock mounts anymore.

What gear would you go with 35's and these axles? Still 5.23 with the overdrive tranny??? Randy'r Ring and Pinion tech says that even dana 44 get too weak lower than 4.88's. I know the ford 9" can take it with its r&p beef.

Troy
Troy
 
Big Red said:
The 37's would look so good and I have then so I'll have to see.

I think you hit your own nail on the head right there. I strongly believe that you need to figure out your goal before doing any sort of build. If your priorities are looks, then fine, run the 37s. If your priority is to be "cool" then you're going about it wrong. If your priority is to have the most capable XJ in the pack, you better open your wallet real wide.

For instance, when I started my build I laid out my priorities; reliable and capable on Fordyce and Rubicon. I decided that meant 35s, D44/8" axles, gearing, and at least one locker. In hindsight, 33s and possibly not a front 44 would have been more accurate to my priorities.

what are your priorities?
 
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