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  #31846  
Old February 24th, 2012, 21:49
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kastein kastein is offline
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Re: Important

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlexdXJ View Post
It was a .460, still a big frickin' round but was surprisingly controllable. Even Susie shot it!


... if I had 15k burning a hole in my pocket...
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  #31847  
Old February 25th, 2012, 01:06
Timmy83 Timmy83 is offline
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Re: Important

^^ That is one happy man.
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  #31848  
Old February 25th, 2012, 04:52
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XJ&CHZ4ME XJ&CHZ4ME is online now
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Re: Important

I handle a large caliber snub nose daily....

Cheese "if ya cant hit the bottom, beat the shit out of the sides" Man
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At least he wasn't tongue punching her fart box..

Or was he???
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  #31849  
Old February 25th, 2012, 05:13
962door 962door is offline
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Re: Important

If there is another Pig Gig I've got a few hand cannons to shoot. A few bolt action hand guns in 7wsm and a wildcat 338wsm. The 338 pushes a 250grain bullet at 2750fps if those aren't enough the 500S&W encore with 500 grain cast bullets is always interesting.
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  #31850  
Old February 25th, 2012, 05:16
Rev Den Rev Den is offline
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Re: Important

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlexdXJ View Post
It was a .460, still a big frickin' round but was surprisingly controllable. Even Susie shot it!

Yup she did. Now she wants one in a 2" barrel for a "carry" gun.

We have created a monster.


Rev
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  #31851  
Old February 25th, 2012, 05:39
WB9YZU WB9YZU is offline
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Re: Important

Quote:
Originally Posted by altrocker1 View Post
grr....i have decided that i hate carburetors.

i have one problem after another trying to get the j10 running...first it was sucking the bowl dry. then it was overflowing the carb and spraying gas out of the top of the carb. now it will only stay running with the choke closed if you run the throttle by hand. so i think (and i really have no idea because this is the first carb i've worked on) that the high idle is not set right and the mixture is not quite right....i just want this damn thing to run so i can get it out of the shop
Stop messing with it. Every time I have messed with a carb for hours "Not wanting to take it apart", I always end up doing so in the long run... so get on with it already

Buy a rebuild kit, they generally come with a blown up carb layout. Get a set of welding tip cleaners. Pull it off. Get some newspaper, set it on the kitchen table where you can see everything. dissemble it and note where everything goes. Watch out for check balls - note size and location for re-installation. Remove the main jets and clean the passages by squirting carb cleaner though them. Take the tip cleaners and make sure the main jets are not clogged. Same with the idle jets.

Set the float per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the accelerator pump per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the choke per spec in the rebuild kit.
If no spec available on the idle air screws, set to 1.5 turns off stop as a starting point.

Clogged idle jets will cause you to need more throttle to keep it running because you are using the main jets.

Clogged mains will cause starvation off throttle.

Poor accelerator pump action will cause stumble on acceleration (need more volume pumped).

Carb data can be obtained in any old Motors manual. I have even found good info on the web by punching in the carb type (Make/Model)
For Example: http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw03.html
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  #31852  
Old February 25th, 2012, 06:53
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FlexdXJ FlexdXJ is offline
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Re: Important

Quote:
Originally Posted by 962door View Post
If there is another Pig Gig I've got a few hand cannons to shoot. A few bolt action hand guns in 7wsm and a wildcat 338wsm. The 338 pushes a 250grain bullet at 2750fps if those aren't enough the 500S&W encore with 500 grain cast bullets is always interesting.
Oh there will be another pig gig! I want to shoot that 500!
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  #31853  
Old February 25th, 2012, 06:54
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FlexdXJ FlexdXJ is offline
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Re: Important

Quote:
Originally Posted by WB9YZU View Post
Stop messing with it. Every time I have messed with a carb for hours "Not wanting to take it apart", I always end up doing so in the long run... so get on with it already

Buy a rebuild kit, they generally come with a blown up carb layout. Get a set of welding tip cleaners. Pull it off. Get some newspaper, set it on the kitchen table where you can see everything. dissemble it and note where everything goes. Watch out for check balls - note size and location for re-installation. Remove the main jets and clean the passages by squirting carb cleaner though them. Take the tip cleaners and make sure the main jets are not clogged. Same with the idle jets.

Set the float per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the accelerator pump per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the choke per spec in the rebuild kit.
If no spec available on the idle air screws, set to 1.5 turns off stop as a starting point.

Clogged idle jets will cause you to need more throttle to keep it running because you are using the main jets.

Clogged mains will cause starvation off throttle.

Poor accelerator pump action will cause stumble on acceleration (need more volume pumped).

Carb data can be obtained in any old Motors manual. I have even found good info on the web by punching in the carb type (Make/Model)
For Example: http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw03.html

Or skip all that and get some fuel injection!
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97 XJ, OME, JCR, HDOR "HObrid" cage blah blah blah... DD/trail rig, '66 M416 expo/truckbed trailer, 02 Subaru WRX wagon
[QUOTE=*89Laredo*;246072645]
The human skull makes quite a loud noise when it hits a metal chair.
[/QUOTE]
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  #31854  
Old February 25th, 2012, 07:11
altrocker1 altrocker1 is offline
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Re: Important

Quote:
Originally Posted by WB9YZU View Post
Stop messing with it. Every time I have messed with a carb for hours "Not wanting to take it apart", I always end up doing so in the long run... so get on with it already

Buy a rebuild kit, they generally come with a blown up carb layout. Get a set of welding tip cleaners. Pull it off. Get some newspaper, set it on the kitchen table where you can see everything. dissemble it and note where everything goes. Watch out for check balls - note size and location for re-installation. Remove the main jets and clean the passages by squirting carb cleaner though them. Take the tip cleaners and make sure the main jets are not clogged. Same with the idle jets.

Set the float per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the accelerator pump per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the choke per spec in the rebuild kit.
If no spec available on the idle air screws, set to 1.5 turns off stop as a starting point.

Clogged idle jets will cause you to need more throttle to keep it running because you are using the main jets.

Clogged mains will cause starvation off throttle.

Poor accelerator pump action will cause stumble on acceleration (need more volume pumped).

Carb data can be obtained in any old Motors manual. I have even found good info on the web by punching in the carb type (Make/Model)
For Example: http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw03.html
i already rebuilt it...there are 3 different idle set screws and the 2 mixture screws and i think all of them were out of whack. it needs throttle because the curb idle and choke fast idle are not set right at all. i also think the choke thermostat needs to be adjusted...there is a lot of info on the carb online, but it doesn't make it any less of a pain in the ass! its all good, i took a day off so i read a little and we'll see if it goes better today...
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  #31855  
Old February 25th, 2012, 08:18
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kastein kastein is offline
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Re: Important

Carbs are black magic

Stuff an EFI setup on it, should be doable with junkyard parts I think. It isn't like they put the 360 and its variants in trucks for 30 years or anything...
__________________
My yard looks like Sanford & Sons.
Please do not PM me about the AW4 info thread unless you have a truly unique question that is not covered by it or info to add. I do not respond to questions answered by the thread.
Definitely do not hunt down my phone number at 3AM, text me about it, and then threaten violence when I am not helpful. It will not get you what you want.
CTeunuch: Sometimes I really wonder if this sport makes you insane, or it just attracts the mentally unstable.
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  #31856  
Old February 25th, 2012, 11:21
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w_howey w_howey is offline
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Re: Important

Quote:
Originally Posted by kastein View Post
Carbs are black magic

Stuff an EFI setup on it, should be doable with junkyard parts I think. It isn't like they put the 360 and its variants in trucks for 30 years or anything...

I think he said he had the 258... really though no difference in available.



If he has the 360, there is a super excellent write on IFSJA, by Ristow about rebuilding the Ford 2100/2150 carbs.... great instructions and massive super pictures.
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  #31857  
Old February 25th, 2012, 12:09
kmanxj5050 kmanxj5050 is offline
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Re: Important

Dwarner got a little stuck last night. I got him out pretty easy


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  #31858  
Old February 25th, 2012, 12:10
kmanxj5050 kmanxj5050 is offline
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Re: Important

Xj front swaybars are amazingly strong!
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  #31859  
Old February 25th, 2012, 12:37
altrocker1 altrocker1 is offline
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Re: Important

well i got it to run and even idle now...carbs are black magic. it will only idle for about a minute but i think it is just a little too lean so it starves itself eventually. ran out of time today so back at it on monday. should have throttle linkage on and be able to drive it out of the shop finally! picked up a manual choke...from what i can tell the electronic choke runs off of pure voodoo so i want something that is predictable...
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  #31860  
Old February 25th, 2012, 13:15
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FlexdXJ FlexdXJ is offline
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Re: Important

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmanxj5050 View Post
Xj front swaybars are amazingly strong!
Tow points are stronger.......
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97 XJ, OME, JCR, HDOR "HObrid" cage blah blah blah... DD/trail rig, '66 M416 expo/truckbed trailer, 02 Subaru WRX wagon
[QUOTE=*89Laredo*;246072645]
The human skull makes quite a loud noise when it hits a metal chair.
[/QUOTE]
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