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peugeot 2.3L turbo diesel questions

altrocker1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Iowa
does anyone know what the transmission bolt pattern is for an 82 2.3l peugeot turbo diesel motor? i know they used a ba 10/5 and ba 7 for a tranny, but do they have a proprietary bolt pattern or are there other trannys that would fit?
 
the fortunate thing is that the motor is mated right now to a ba10/5...so i would already have both the tranny with the bellhousing if i went that route...
 
so the whole reason for my plunkering is that i found a peugeot motor for next to nothing and a $500 manche with a blown motor. i think my plan at this point will be to fab up some motor mounts and get the motor somewhat situated while mated to a ba 10/5 and an np231 to see if i can get the truck rolling...then somewhere down the road convert it to run with an ax15 manual. the motor needs a new pump gasket for the injection system, but its a direct injected all mechanical diesel...so no need for a computer. if i can get the mj sensors working on the motor, then the speedo should work with the 231 transfer case (even though the gearing might not be right). the mj appears to be relatively rust free (for an iowa manche)...and those peugeot motors (unlike the trannys) are pretty bullet proof. parts aren't terribly difficult to source and it uses a bosch injection system...

it won't be a powerhouse by any means...but with a few adjustments and a small pump modification, it will do 100 or so hp and just over 2000 ft/lb of torque at 2k rpm...which seems like it would be alright for a dd mj shortbed :)
 
sensor and speedo stuff is simple.

The speedo is mechanical, doesn't care as long as you plug the cable into the 231. it will read correct so long as it has the right gear for your axle ratio and tire size.

Most of the Renix senders are GM bits. So find a GM sensor that fits in the holes for oil/water.
You're on your own if you want a tach. Being that it's mechanical you can go with one that reads the AC pulses from the alternator, or something with a transducer that clamps onto the #1 injector line. Assuming that it doesn't have a tach pickup in the pump housing.
 
sensor and speedo stuff is simple.

The speedo is mechanical, doesn't care as long as you plug the cable into the 231. it will read correct so long as it has the right gear for your axle ratio and tire size.

Most of the Renix senders are GM bits. So find a GM sensor that fits in the holes for oil/water.
You're on your own if you want a tach. Being that it's mechanical you can go with one that reads the AC pulses from the alternator, or something with a transducer that clamps onto the #1 injector line. Assuming that it doesn't have a tach pickup in the pump housing.

i can always add an aftermarket tach...i have a renix cluster without a tach that i might use if this happens.
 
I had an 87 XJ laredo that had that cluster.

big fuel gauge, low fuel light that was the AMC logo, full gauges for everything else.

it was an odd duck.
 
Another possibility - mill appropriate slots into either the harmonic balancer or the flywheel edge, mount an HO CPS at the proper airgap spacing above it, install a basic converter that takes 0/5 volt pulses and converts them to 0/12 volt pulses, and feed a RENIX tach with them. The RENIX tach is driven by the low side of the ignition coil primary wiring which is driven by the ICM output IIRC, so basically it just counts 0/12 volt pulses, one for each cylinder. I'm reasonably certain you could build the signal converter with 1/4 of an LM339, a pull-up resistor, and two other resistors to set the "trip" level. Mill 4 (or 6, if the cluster you are using is from a 6cyl jeep) equally spaced slots in the edge of the HB or flywheel, mount the CPS, feed it 5 volts (if you don't have a 5 volt source in the truck, a 7805 regulator and two 0.1uF ceramic caps plus a 1uF tantalum or aluminum electrolytic will do this for you) and then feed the signal to the converter, then wire the output to the input of the tach.
 
i havent seen what gauges the mj has currently...im going to check it out when i get home on sunday. if all looks good, this project will start tuesday
 
Typically diesels drive the tach from the alternator W output.

I sold a 2.1 Renault Diesel dash to child9 (2JZGTE Swap) Try and find out if he wants to part with the tachometer part of the dash, I'm 99% sure it will work with any 4 cyl diesel and W alternator output.
I know for a fact that the tachometers swap on older dashes (tried it on an 89 and 90 dash, swapping the 4.0 tach in place of the 2.1 diesel to match all fonts).

Another option would be to simulate a CPS using a microcontroller which reads the alt W output and sends signals to the PCM. I'm working on that too, since my diesel XJ uses a CPS to drive the tach, which is not cool at all.
 
lol...i meant 200.

I hate to burst your bubble but a stock 2.3L Peugeot TD engine is a long way short of even 200lbft:

ENGINE: Code- XD2S
Type- 2.3 Litre OHV in-line 4 Diesel with Bosch Mechanical Fuel Injection, Cast Iron Block and Light Alloy Head, Five Main Bearings
Max. Horsepower- 80 H.P. @ 4150 RPM
Max. Torque- 136 lb.ft. @ 2000 RPM
Fuel- Automotive Diesel Fuel
 
i fully understand, but with a lot of the info i've found its fairly easy to get them to around 200 ft/lbs without breaking the bank and not putting too much strain on the engine. turning up the pump, cold air intake/intercooler and a few other adjustments are fairly easy to do. numbers beyond that are pretty much a lost cause unless you want to start modifying the head. i don't need it to be a pulling truck...i just need it to run ;) step number one is to get the motor...a motor that was running when pulled and is practically free. if i can make the motor run well...then its on to step 2 which would be dropping it in the truck. step 3 will be building an adapter plate to adapt it to an ax15, then step 4 would be getting the best performance possible out of it.

if this happens it will be a mostly stock truck rolling on stock tires...not going to be turning 35's with this motor anytime soon;)
 
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